Rotory

iTrader: (1)

can only the a/c condenser be removed. I dont really care that much about all the other weight removal im only concerned with the better cooling and airflow to the radiator

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

Yup.

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, what exactly would that consist of? Do I just drain the freon and take out the condenser? Maybe I should take out the pump as well for space. but the lines dont take up much space.

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

and i dont see anything about A/C in my FSM

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

In principle you should take the car to a certified A/C technician to have the Freon drained. Once that is done have at it. Disconnect lines, unbolt condensor, and haul it out. I don't recall if you have to remove the radiator or not but it's really just unbolting parts. The evaporator can be removed after first taking out the glovebox. Not hard at all. I removed my entire A/C system: condensor, lines, dryer, compressor, and evaporator (big box under the dash).

This is a 31lb weight savings pictured. You will need a shorter belt though if you still wnt to run the power steering.
FWIW,
Crispy

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

after getting the freon drained could i undo only those 2 lines on the left and right of the condenser and unbolt the condenser and pull it out? my A/C belt is off anyways so it wont be pumping anything. do i have to cap the lines?

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

IIRC the only things holeding the condesnsor in are the two refridgerant lines and the 4 bolted brackets. Undo those and the condensor will come right out, notwithstanding the need to also possibly remove the radiator. Do you have to cap the lines? Not if you don't plan on ever using the A/C system again. BTW if you're not runningt he A/C why not pull the compressor also?
Easy to do and you might eb able to sell it for a few bucks AND save some weight also.
FWIW
Crispy

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

i just want to pull the condenser for now. im chasing a slight IMO overheating problem. my car gets to 1/2 way on the guage at anything over 90 and i want to see if getting that huge chunk of metal infront of the radiator removed could help alot

scathcart

Take it to a shop to have it drained. Freon burns pretty easily if discharged by hand, not to mention the effects to the environment.

Really, though, I guarantee this will not solve your problem.

First things first: Change your thermostat and rad cap over to stock Mazda OEM parts. Make sure you are running at least 50% water.

Get an aftermarket gauge... ANY aftermarket temp gauge. The stock one is not accurate enough to worry about.

Run the car up to operating temp, are carefully feel around the front of the radiator. If there are spots that are significantly hotter than others, then you need to have your rad serviced/replaced.

Check to make sure the cooling system reaches operating pressure. If you have any minor coolant leaks, the cooling system will not pressurize, and overheat, especially in high speed acceleration.

Ensure you have the stock undertray installed.

I am willing to bet your rad is not fairing so well.

MtnRacer

When I pulled my A/C I didn't use a shorter belt, just adjusted tensioner I think. Power steering works fine!

Steve

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

My radiator cap is OEM, the water pump cap is CST or whatever crap that is so I need to get it changed.

how much is an aftermarket gauge? im pretty broke.

how can you feel the radiator for heat spots when that huge condenser is 1/8 inch away from it?

there is some crap stuck in between my condenser and my radiator that i cant get out.

undertray is in there really shitty because alot of the holes where the screws were supposed to go have broken off screws in them. the front is in place good though its just the back screws where it attaches to the frame piece