2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

OMP in the trunk?

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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 12:44 AM
  #26  
pengarufoo's Avatar
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Originally Posted by alexdimen
-You still have to fill up the resevoir for the pump... so you're back where you started: with messy pre-mix everywhere.

I don't mean to be an ***, but maybe you should just work on your pouring skills

You fill the reservior less often than you fill the tank.... the larger the reservior the lower the frequency.

If the reservior were the same volume as the amount of premix used in a single full tank of gas, then you would be correct, this would make it pointless.

But lets say you used a reservior that was large enough to support 10 fill-ups, this requires you to go **** with the premix oil 10 times less often.

That's a welcome improvement in my opinion.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 07:07 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by pengarufoo
You fill the reservior less often than you fill the tank.... the larger the reservior the lower the frequency.

If the reservior were the same volume as the amount of premix used in a single full tank of gas, then you would be correct, this would make it pointless.

But lets say you used a reservior that was large enough to support 10 fill-ups, this requires you to go **** with the premix oil 10 times less often.

That's a welcome improvement in my opinion.

cough, cough..(clears throat) 9 times less often actually...but yeah...im just here for moral support!
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 07:36 AM
  #28  
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OR, get a 3/16 OD pipe welded onto the back cover of the OMP, block the omp intake off with JB weld or somthing and use that resivour you are talking about and hook it up to the small pipe on the OMP.

The OMP will now inject 2 stroke instead of oil. Works for me.

BTW
A 10amp fuse kit as an added protection on the circuit
Have you measure how many amps that tiny pump uses? I can't remember but I don't think it uses that many amps. Might be better with a 5 amp or less.

That little pump on the resivour is a strong pump! I couldn't believe when I was screwing around with it months ago how much pressure that thing will make.

can someone explain to me what the point of running premix is? Do you still have the normal oil and stuff? Are you simply adding 2 cycle oil to the fuel? If so, what gains does this have? What all modifications are needed to the engine to use this method?
Point is, normally your motor oil is injected into the combustion chambers which does not burn clean and is not made to burn. When you disable the OMP and run 2 stroke in the gas tank (premix) Oil and gas is injected into the combustion chambers together and the 2 stroke will lubricate everything while it is still able to burn perfectly clean.

Problem, its messy and a huge PITA. Which is why I went the route I did.

Last edited by RotaMan99; Jan 23, 2007 at 07:42 AM.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 09:03 AM
  #29  
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There's no such thing as a new idea. I'm working on a 1st gen right now with this system in it. I wanted to set it up to automatically add the right amount of premix based on how much fuel was added to the tank (read the position of the sender before and after with a Basic STAMP) but the user just wanted a simple dial on the dash to select the amount of premix, and a "MIX" button.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 11:22 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
There's no such thing as a new idea. I'm working on a 1st gen right now with this system in it. I wanted to set it up to automatically add the right amount of premix based on how much fuel was added to the tank (read the position of the sender before and after with a Basic STAMP) but the user just wanted a simple dial on the dash to select the amount of premix, and a "MIX" button.
It's a new idea if you don't share with us your projects/ideas. Hint... hint...
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 11:46 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Secondmessiah
hailers. . . i have no idea what youre talking about

OP: I like the whole not getting your hands dirty/not having a dirty funnel in your car idea, which is why i kept my normal OMP. some people are being ******** in here.

That's ok. I don't understand delusional pre-mixers that think a given ratio of pre-mix to gas is the right way to go. A given ratio would only apply to a given rpm. I'll let it go with that. There's no changing minds on this subject.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 12:18 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
That's ok. I don't understand delusional pre-mixers that think a given ratio of pre-mix to gas is the right way to go. A given ratio would only apply to a given rpm. I'll let it go with that. There's no changing minds on this subject.
I'm confused... please explain.

If you don't feel like starting a discussion, you could pm me...
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 01:08 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
It's a new idea if you don't share with us your projects/ideas. Hint... hint...
It's nothing spectacular. A 555 timer circuit activates a relay for either 5, 15 or 30 seconds to represent premix amounts based on how much fuel is put into the tank. The user selects it with a dial on the dash, and presses a red MIX button before he pumps fuel. The resevoir is a little metal canister with a washer fluid pump installed. It pipes into the fuel tank filler neck.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 01:23 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
It's nothing spectacular. A 555 timer circuit activates a relay for either 5, 15 or 30 seconds to represent premix amounts based on how much fuel is put into the tank. The user selects it with a dial on the dash, and presses a red MIX button before he pumps fuel. The resevoir is a little metal canister with a washer fluid pump installed. It pipes into the fuel tank filler neck.
Lol, you lost me at "555 timer". Sounds cool though. I had thought about plumbing something straight into the gas tank before (not automated), but left it alone because I didn't feel like blowing myself up.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 12:45 PM
  #35  
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I'm confused... please explain
1oz per gallon is what should see during WOT at higher rpms. While you are curising, you can use much less then that. So always mixing 1oz per gallon is a waste of 2 stroke unless you are always running at full throttle. The more 2 stroke you are mixing into your fuel, the less gasoline is being injected into the motor.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 12:49 PM
  #36  
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It's nothing spectacular. A 555 timer circuit activates a relay for either 5, 15 or 30 seconds to represent premix amounts based on how much fuel is put into the tank. The user selects it with a dial on the dash, and presses a red MIX button before he pumps fuel. The resevoir is a little metal canister with a washer fluid pump installed. It pipes into the fuel tank filler neck.
The time it takes for 2 stroke to be injected would drastically change when the 2 stroke is cold. Just because its "inside" the car near the spare tire well, doesn't mean it will be heated when you put the heat on in the car during colder months. Even though that small pump is strong, hopefully it will be able to pump the same amount of 2 stroke during warmer months when the 2 stroke is cold during colder months.

Although this would mean nothing to those of you who store the car for winter or where temps don't get that low.

Lol, you lost me at "555 timer". Sounds cool though. I had thought about plumbing something straight into the gas tank before (not automated), but left it alone because I didn't feel like blowing myself up.
I also had the idea but I knew I would do something better so I didn't go that route.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 01:27 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by RotaMan99
The time it takes for 2 stroke to be injected would drastically change when the 2 stroke is cold. Just because its "inside" the car near the spare tire well, doesn't mean it will be heated when you put the heat on in the car during colder months. Even though that small pump is strong, hopefully it will be able to pump the same amount of 2 stroke during warmer months when the 2 stroke is cold during colder months.
The car is not driven in the winter.

I also had the idea but I knew I would do something better so I didn't go that route.
I still like the idea of comparing the position of the sender pre and post fillup. Then it's totally automatic. A small flow sensor can be used to measure the actual amount of premix to account for viscosity changes. Or even simpler, just a thermistor so the microcontroller can make an educated guess.

Or, the whole system can be junked because Mazda put a perfectly good metering oil system on the car from the factory anyway...
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 12:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
The car is not driven in the winter.
So you don't have to worry about that issue then.

Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
I still like the idea of comparing the position of the sender pre and post fillup. Then it's totally automatic. A small flow sensor can be used to measure the actual amount of premix to account for viscosity changes. Or even simpler, just a thermistor so the microcontroller can make an educated guess.
Sounds good, but also seems to be a very complicated way to get more then enough 2 stroke in the fuel tank then stick with what mazda designed and making it inject the right amount of 2 stroke when needed.

Like you said.
Or, the whole system can be junked because Mazda put a perfectly good metering oil system on the car from the factory anyway...
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 05:51 PM
  #39  
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Bison Asko, did you actually do what you said your going to do?

Actually it got my interest up a bit. If you pull the carpet up in the rear, you'll see, at least on a series four turbo car, and access plate on the right rear of the floor. Almost opposite the access panel for the fuel pump.

PUll that access panel up and you have access to the fuel delivery hose, but more important the small, approx 5/8th" vent hose that goes b/t the fuel tank and the fill receptacle.

That hose is about a foot or a touch less long. Remove same. Cut it intwo pieces. Install a copper pipe available at your local HomeDepot inbetween the cut hoses.

Before installing this copper pipe, drill a hole in the middle of it and solder in a nipple of approx 1/4" diameter and long enough to go throught the access cover you removed earlier. It's best if this nipple has a 90* bend in it facing aft.

Put clamps on the hoses that were cut and then install a 1/4" hose on the nipple you just soldered in. The other end of the hose can go to a cheap, carb fuel pump or your favorite pump. Then the pump will have a feed hose on it going to a gallon jug of two stroke oil from WalMart. Put the hose in a hole you drill in the top of the gallon jugs cap. Make a very small hole in the cap for ventilation (can't spell today for squat).

Change jugs out when empty, just keep the same drilled cap.

As for volume in a given time frame, just do what the Bison did earlier. Personally I think a washer pump is too small. It takes about a minute plus to pump 16oz with one of those.

I've almost done what I wrote. Except I have a old carb inline fuel pump I bought and never used for anything and yet to install that part.

And before anybody says anything.....................hey, a guys gotta have SOMETHING to do on the weekend. Bisons thought was somewhat unique on this forum and worth persuing. Unfortunatly I had drilled a hole in an old fuel pump top before I realized there was a better way i.e. the vent tube for the filler neck.

I assume non turbo's have the same access panel on the right, under the carpet.

By the way, if a washer pump is used you must have the reservoir of oil below the fuel level or it'll siphon feed all the oil into the fuel tank.

And a washer tank or SubZero tank are way too small. Go for the gallon container so you don't have to mess with this thing all the time.
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