Yesterday I was installing a new pulse damper, got everything disconnected. Removed the Intake Plenum, upon close examination I noticed that the small plastic lines that run from the OMP to the spider connector that distributes oil to the Apex seals where melted in half and sealed off as a result of high temps. ALL 4 of them. I have had this car for 3 years, and the PD leaking is the first problem that this car has given me that required intake removal. I have no idea how long it has been like this, (NO OIL). I take very good care of this car, but also run it very hard at times. I was horrified to discover that there was an oiling problem, Considering how hard I push the engine sometimes. Anyways I am now running 2 Stroke oil in the gasoline due to the fact its the only option I have at this point. The engine has always ran VERY strong for an NA, And I can tell the compression is even better now. My friend Steve has two RX-7 SCCA Race cars, and I was talking to him about this, and come to find out niether of his racers has an OMP. Im thinking this may be way to go, Considering the OMP lines in good shape are hard to come by. The ratio im running is about 1oz per gallon of petrol. Anyone else use 2 stroke in there almost daily driver?

 

I premix my car. I actually went to the trouble of making new OMP lines, but after seeing how long it takes oil to get into the engine I decided I didn't want to keep that on my car. I haven't bothered taking it off yet, but the OMP rod isn't connected at the moment.
1 oz per gallon seems to be what most people use to premix. Its kinda a pain and messy, but its not too bad once you are used to it.

 

I have no problem mixing the oil, Im just happy I discovered the problem when I did. Good to know im not the only one with this problem. Just glad theres an alternative that works and that no further damage will be done. If the PD had not leaked and needed replacement, I might not have noticed the lines and compromised my engine.

 

Much better way to go. If you stick with the OMP, you are taken used oil from your oil pan, and injecting it into the combustion chamber. That sounds like a bad idea to me.

I'd much rather grab some TCW-3. The oil goes into the chamber with the gas, lubes the rotors, and is gone out the pipe.

 

And I havent noticed any smoke like I was anticipating.

 

i was suprised about that has well.

My brothers rx smelled really bad with premix until he got a cat on the car. His motor had a huge port on it tho.

So far no stink from mine!

 

Mines 2 1/4" race header to single pipe, (no cat) into 2 Ractive mufflers. Absolutley free flowing, Sounds great, makes Hondas hate LOL. No fowl smells yet. Only my first day on premix though.

 

Premixing gets old after awhile.
I did it for 6K+ miles and it sucks majorly.
I just bought good lines and OMP and I already have the injectors.
Much easier and is just as good, my race mech. uses the stock OMP on their 9 sec 1st Gen for a long time.
Its all in taste and belief in Mazda engineering though.

I have my blockoff plate for the OMP if u want it, will have it off in a week or so.

Oh yeah, my motor has popped twice from oiling problems using premix.
Im done with that, im going back.

Just my .02

Jon

 

Oh yeah.
It does stink.
My car always smelled like oil, but i have noooo cats nor any mufflers really, just two tips with no baffling.
That might make a difference???
IDK, but chicks dont dig that ****, neither do friends....

Jon

 

Sounds like a problem with the user, not with the premix.
Seriously, the only way to blow a motor because of premix is if you forget to put it in. That or dump a whole gallon into your tank and lean out the fuel, but you would have to be really retarded to do that.

 

It would absolutley have to be better than NOTHIN which is what I had. Cant believe this engine stayed together as long as it has, and can still run like it does.
The OMP is a ghost, I dont think Mazda wanted to sell a car that you had to premix. But, now that Im certain it doesnt need the OMP, Goodbye complex OEM oiling BS.... Hello finally getting some Apex lubrication and great compression.

 

My car smells bad too. I have no emission with a rb exhaust. Why it's smelling bad ? Is it because of 2 strokes oil ? Because when I used the omp the car didn't smell anything. However I had the emission.

 

wow - sounds like my setup but i have a single pipe all the way. it's been 2 months since my rebuild and i've noticed that my omp works when it wants to - and when it does, it looks like very lil oil is pumped so i've been pre-mixing. so far - it feels a lil better.

 

So quick question. How hard is it to put that blockoff plate on? And anybody have a rightup on getting that all done?

I'm having a feeling that my holes for the screws are stripped and that's what's making it leak oil......so I don't know. I rebuilt my OMP so we'll see how it goes when I reinstall it again.

 

You already answered your question. If you take off the cat, the car will smell bad. Period, end of story.

 

+1 Sideways7. taking off the cat and the air pump are the two main issues that will makes your 7 stink. The cars are actaully fat hogs at idle. But if the air pump is pumping air into your exhaust, and the cat is catching some of that excess, you'd never know.

 

The lines can be replaced using $10-20 of easily obtained material and a few hours of your time. Compared to the hassle, mess and extra cost of premixing, this is nothing. The benefits of premixing do not apply to an old engine. The damage is already done and switching to premix is going to make hardly any difference to its remaining lifespan, particularly in your case.

 

Shittalk? He's completely correct. The only way premix can cause engine failure is from too little oil or (far less likely) too much oil. That's pure operator error, i.e. you. Calling people names won't change that. If premix really did kill your engines, I don't think you know what you're doing at all.

 

No oil flows through the "spider". The plastic lines individually go from the omp to each oil injector. You are still talking about the plastic lines and not the vacuum spider correct?

Or using air cooled engine 2 stroke oil that can have a VERY low flash point. Burns off before doing anything good.

 

The least messy install using pre mix is installing a gallon can of it in the spare tire well (spare tire not removed). Then install a windshield wiper moter (12bucks at AutoZone) on the bottom side of the gallon can.

Run a hose from the washer pump to the VENT hose that runs alongside the gas fill hose. You remove a access cover under the rug on the right rear of the luggage area to find this hose.

You cut the VENT hose in the middle and install a tee with a fitting in the middle that matches you line coming from the washer motor. Clamp the hoses to the tee.

For the pump, run one wire directly to a gnd. You'll find a couple of gnd points back near the tail lights. THen run another wire from the pump to up front where you can have a on/off switch. Connect the wire to it. Then run another wire, say from the cigar lighter hot lead to that on/off switch.

Turn the on/off switch to ON. Let it stay in ON for thirty seconds. If you measure for YOURSELF, you'll find that approx 30 seconds of ON results in 16oz of premix being fed into the VENT hose of he gas tank.

A gallon of premix should last you a LOOOONG time without having to refill the gallon can. You never touch premix bottles, cans etc until you fill the gallon can. Undo it's cap, install a funnel, pour into it from a fresh gallon can of premix. How often? Weeks depending on how much you drive.

 

How hard is it to get to the top most end of the OMP lines? Do you have to take of the manifold? does anybody have any instructions no how to get to it...

And if so, explain it like your talking to a 3 year old, I'd appreciate it.

 

sorry i don't have the time to expalin it all, but yes you need to remove the throttlebody and upper intake manifold,

 

+1 on that

I premix into the tank with mystery oil