REAmemiya_fan

I only have a few questions that I'm trying to condense into one post.

First, I'm doing the Banzai Racing S4 OMP elimination mod and I'm trying to figure out where two of the allen bolts go.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6264957330/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6264957330/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

They are the two smaller ones.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6264953996/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6264953996/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

I also managed to undo the two injection lines that go to the LIM, but I can't seem to get the other two off... I have tried a few different size wrenches, but the 17mm was way too big, but anything less and I couldn't even find an angle that would work to get it on! If anyone has done this mod, could you please let me know how to get those off.

Also, I am guessing that you will need to put a nipple on the top vac line on the intake manifold since there will be no reason to have it with the OMP removed?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6264426753/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6264426753/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

I will be making a how-to post when I'm done. It's really not hard to do, but since I have not been able to find one after days of searching, I'm quite convinced there isn't one.

Next question is the TB mod. The engine is simply a 6-port n/a with really no supporting mods. Would it even be worth doing the mod?

Then lastly, what the hell is this part, how could it have broken, and where would I get another one?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6264957472/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6264957472/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

It's right below the LIM if it helps any...

And while I'm thinking about it, how do these injectors look? I know its impossible to tell how well they work just by looking at a picture but you guy's are more experts than I am so I just want opinion. I will probably have them flow tested and rebuilt if you guys think I should. I really don't know how old they are.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6264954272/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6264954272/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6264426351/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6264426351/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

This is not difficult. You have four oil injectors, two in the LIM, two in the rotor housings. You bought the kit from our website where there is a link to installtion instructions http://www.banzai-racing.com/S4_omp_bop_install.htm

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

The TB is a waste of time on an n/a.
That broken piece is part of some emissions component that you might as well remove and block off.
Done.

REAmemiya_fan

Okay, thanks banzai and sharingan, I didn't even look on the site for the instructions. I figured i could do without but now I can see which bolts go where. The biggest problem is I cant get the two of the housings off. Which is dumb because they're exactly the same as the ones on the LIM

What emissions piece is it? I need to pass my local testing but if it doesn't make much a difference then ill block it. I am fairly confident that I should pass now. After two fails earlier this year, I replaced my cats, O2 sensor, new plugs, filter, and now the OMP removal.

REAmemiya_fan

So that piece that is broken is the Air control valve. Not so good for emissions. And not so good on the wallet either (if buying from mazdatrix). I'll talk with Ray Crowe and see what he thinks of it. Also have a slew of other things I need to buy from him anyway.

Thanks for the input though guys.

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

Do ppl in indiana have to smog their cars?

3vil

iTrader: (4)

if your car is an s4 i believe you can just remove and block off that ACV. for your injectors, i persoanlly have had a great experience with Witch Hunter Performance http://www.witchhunter.com/ as far s cleaning on flow testing my injectors went. as for the oil injectors, i had to take a spare 14mm wrench and grind it down a bit to get it to fit under the injector. from there it was easy to remove them

REAmemiya_fan

Alright ill try that, I got a free 14mm when I signed up to Lincoln college haha.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

lies, its worth it because the TBs are 20 years old and stick and cause hesitation and idle issues, there is virtually no power gain but a SIGNIFICANT improvement in throttle response. just search for my TB thread with airflow data

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Sure, gain in throttle response, but a loss in driveability. The answer to this question has been discussed heavily and is completely subjective. If you are looking to exclusively be throwing this thing around the track then it is no big deal but if you intend to drive this on the road you are going to be cursing when you have to deal with a light switch throttle through parking lots, low speed driving, etc... Your call.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the broken part is one of the two solenoid valves on the ACV, and its available separately and useless.

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

Don't you need your AVC to activate your 5th and 6th ports? or is that just the air pump? I forget which is which. can you tell I'm a turbo guy with no emissions yet

REAmemiya_fan

It's alright guys, I had a backup from my spare engine haha. Forgot I had everything. And from what I can tell, it goes to the air pump for something and to some black cylinder that looks like the charcoal canister but under the passenger headlight. Forgot the name of it and what it does.

Chris Boots

In your case I'd look up an emissions block off kit since I don't think you have smog regulations. That would eliminate the rats nest and the air pump, and a dozen vacuum lines, as well as those emissions solenoids.

That canister is not the charcoal canister. It's actually a muffler...for the air pump. Go ahead and yank that out.

Do some searching on electronically operating the aux ports.

Or... In my old NA setup I ran a little compressor motor removed from those little cigarette lighter bike pumps that can be had for less than 10 bucks to the port's actuators, then took the the (iirc orange?) emissions rats nest connector and spliced the positive wire from it to an extra solenoid connected to the pump. With that the pump would turn on at 3500 rpms (just like some sort of emissions solenoid would have) thus activating the aux ports like stock. Also leave a "T" in between the lines from the pump to the aux ports so that it won't over pressurize. (I Guess you don't have to search now...)

I liked this setup the best because the ports would open very very quick and you could actually "feel" the ports open via the butt dyno.

Also some food for thought, the S4 aux ports aren't even opened with the stock air pump. A line was driven off the exhaust to the ports, that just happened to be enough back pressure to open the ports. Crappy design and they fixed that idea with the S5 NA's.


Why did you decide to remove the omp? S4-'s are known for their reliable omp's, I even run them in my turbo engines because I don't like the idea of carrying an extra quart of oil around to mix into my gas. Now if I was racing, then I'd probably just block it off and mix all my own gas anyways.

Don't do the TB mod. There's no increase in power at all especially on an NA. As for throttle response...we're talking about a 13B NA here...need I say more? Don't get me wrong, love the NA's, but it's not worth all the work to have something that will do more bad than good, all things considered. It's like removing the BAC... I don't understand that either. Sure I remove the coolant lines going to them, but I'd rather have the ecu take care of compensating for extra loads at idle or rebounding when I suddenly let off the gas.

REAmemiya_fan

I would remove the whole rats nest but i do have to pass smog and the reason im running premix is so i dont have to burn engine oil on the combustion chambers. I'd rather have a clean burning 2-stroke oil in there.

REAmemiya_fan

Only certain counties.

Chris Boots

Good argument on the premix. You could run half oil half two stroke oil... I'll type more when I'm not on my Droid.

REAmemiya_fan

Im with you on that one, half my posts on here are off my droid

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

to the OMP... I run one on my s4 TII and its one of the only things that hasn't broken yet. I replaced the lines (they were fine, but I remove the UIM a lot and it was just tempting fate to think I wouldn't crack them) and they're super durable and clear now. I can see if the OMP is working (and it is) so to me that's a lot more reliable than trying to remember how much 2-stroke oil you need with every fill up. plus why would you want your fuel injectors to pass oil and fuel? they're only designed for fuel... and that cant help the atomization pattern. it would also throw off your AFRs since not everything you're spraying is fuel.

Thats just my opinion though. That electric bike pump idea is a really good one, but isnt that thing loud? I guess if your exhaust is loud enough you wouldnt be able to hear it though...