I was wondering if there was a video of how to do an OMP block off because I do not want to hit limp mode. I'm relatively new to cars so I don't really know how to do much..

 

Which begs the question, why do you want to remove the OMP?
Without remediation, the S5 will enter limp mode if the OMP is removed.

 

I read from somewhere that if you did an omp blockoff, and just premix. It'll be fine

 

..and if you delete the S5 OMP from the wiring it will put the car in Limp mode.
an S4 OMP can be deleted as it is mechanical and has no ties to the ECU at all.

Removing stuff from the engine doesn't necessarily make the car faster.
It's best that you understand the functions of the parts on the engine and then decide if you can take the parts off without consequence.
I've seen way too many threads posted of guys taking parts off and then wondering WHY the car doesn't run any more.

A stock engine with a functional OMP is a safe bet..Taking stuff off and then having to premix,add block offs,replacing gaskets etc,Really starts to add up.
An S5 will need an RTEK ECU to allow the engine to run without any OMP in the engine bay.
But then again If you go that route you have just spent a couple hundred bucks to Get rid of a Perfectly good Factory OMP system,which seems silly in the long run.

 

maybe he wants to save the OMP before it actually dies, because you know they are almost 2 thousand dollars new. and finding good working ones is actually not so easy a task.

the only other way to defeat it is by using the Rtek as mentioned, for those who already lost their pumps.

 

Forget what you read and pay attention to your actual car.
What indication do you have that the OMP is a problem?

To be sure, there are lots of systems that can go wrong- this forum is a litany of potential problems- but you seem to be addressing an issue you little understand and really have no reason to worry about yet.

 

As mentioned, the RTEK is the easier and economical ECU solution but a full standalone will also work. If you want an RTEK, you should hurry since the owner is shutting down that part of the business soon.

You're suggesting he prevent limp mode by removing the OMP and putting it into limp mode ???

 

Whenever I hit 4000 rpm in 2nd gear the car like.. gives up so I looked it up and that's considered hitting limp mode but I don't know how to fix it

 

No, that's not limp mode...sounds more like a problem with the secondary injectors.

 

ah, Thank you. What is a good brand for me to buy? My rx7 is stocked

 

Slow down there, Skippy, you haven't reached the "buying" stage yet.
Fear not, you'll get there soon enough but not yet.

First of all, what exactly are we dealing with here...like year and model?
Any pictures of the engine bay, that would be helpful.

 

the a good OMP won't fail merely having it defeat the system by having it removed from the engine. although unsightly as that is, it's actually oil intrusion into the OMP itself along with the heat of the engine that causes them to fail.

 

it's a 1990 rx7 convertible, it's kind of dark right now so I can try getting pictures of the engine bay tomorrow

 

We can continue then, then.

 

 

Thats a nice clean, un screwed with engine bay you have there

 

Wow, that is one stock looking bay you've got there.
Very nice, if you're into that sort of thing.

How long have you had it and what sort of driving history do you know (i.e., has it ever run right for you, has it been sitting, etc.)?

 

Thanks guys, um I had it for a year and half now (around there)

The last owner had it as PNO, for a while and he told me that it was just an $400 omp replacement, and my best friend at the time said it was a good deal.. and I was pretty new to cars so I bought it not knowing what a pain it would be to fix

The car runs ok, if I don't step on the gas all the way. it just accelerates kind of slow

 

No longer your best friend, eh?
What kind of pain have you endured...what have you already tried to fix?

To be clear...the car starts and runs consistently?
Will it free rev past 4k rpm in the driveway without hesitation?
Have you ever looked at the exhaust?

 

Yeah, no longer.

I took it to couple of shops, none would work with rotarys
I found one that was willing to take a look at it and it spent 2 months there and was told it was Oil metering pump. I bought like 2 -3 different OMPs online (used). Then he did something to the ECU I think and still isn't fixed

The car starts and runs consistently and can go above 4k in neutral and 1st but not in 2nd.

What should I look for in the exhaust?

 

If you can free rev over 4K, but not driving, your secondary injectors aren't kicking in. Luckily, those are the easiest ones to access, as they are the ones closest to the top

Either get replacements, or send yours out to get rebuild

 

ah... thank you. What brand should I get? I'm not sure which ones to buy and I'm afraid of buying something that would break easily

 

If you can live with the car being down for a week or so, take the injectors out (may as well do all 4) and send them mr injector or some other injector place and send them to them

Cheaper then new, but almost just as good

 

This is all too vague and thus, troubling.

A qualified mechanic?

Sorry, couldn't resist.
Although it does bring up a valid point...how involved in this process do you want to be and how capable/equipped are you?
No matter the answer, first thing is to download the factory service manual from: foxit.ca.

Next thing is to run the scan for codes...let the car tell you if the OMP is bad or not.
Our ECUs are stupid, but will tell you a few things and the procedure is crude but simple.

 

Yeah, it was a qualified mechanic. Well they still don't know that much about rotary engines
I have the manuals but I don't have an ECU scanner