JAPSPECGTUs

First off, I need to get some frustration out.....WTF!!!!

Friday night I when I filled up I checked my oil, it was about 1/2 way down the dipstick. That night I drove 25 miles and wound it to 5k about 3 times 6.5k about 5 times, the 6.5k were WOT the 5ks were just normal throttle. It ran fine after the spirited runs I cuised home the last 10 miles nothing over 4k after the 6.5k runs, thus allowing the engine to thermal cool down in a sense. Saturday I drove it 4 miles to get a car wash, it flooded pretty bad and when I got home I cleaned the plugs and stuck them back in, vowing to change the oil the next day(today). When I drove it out that night I noticed it was backfiriing a lot, like every time I took off from a stop and every shift except 4th and 5th. This was under light throttle too. I parked my car after driving about 13 miles and went to start it up again. I have hot-start problems so I knew it was gonna be a bitch before hand. Although this time it was different it would start but idle VERY low, almost not even registering on the tach. While it was idling I would give it gas, but it would rev up, after about 10 seconds it finally reved up I began to drive it normallay and when I went to coast down a small hill it dropped very low in the rpms then nearly died, before I popped the clutch. My TPS is outta wack so 99% of the times it pulses and doesn't idle. What I mean by out of wack is that it needs to be adjusted but my multimeter batteries are dead, which is something I was also going to do today. Well I made it home another 13 miles and shut it down. This morning began my maitence with a compression test. First cold, then warmed up. I did it cold and sadly my engine makes about 50psi cold on a standard compression tester with the check valve removed(that's extremely low). This was the first time I did a comp test so I cannot base my problem solely on compression. All of the bounces were steady. I went to start it up and it did the whole low idle thing but this time it didn't rev up. So I said F-it I'll pull the plugs and ATF it. Well when I pulled the plugs there was a milky substance on them on rotors 1 and 2. They reeked of gas. Damn I said, I'll check the oil and see how it smells. Well I pulled the dipstick off, there was oil on it, wiped it off dipped it and pulled it out. **** no oil at all! Did it again, same thing. My car smokes a bit, I thought it was a bad turbo, but I checked the intake right after the turbo and it was bone dry, not even any carbon deposits. So if the turbo isn't bad, then the VITON rings may be? The next thing I am gonna do is fill it with oil, ATF it, crank it up, give it a comp test and pray it's not blown from oil starvation. Does anyone know what the milky substance could be?

JAPSPECGTUs

First off, I need to get some frustration out.....WTF!!!!

Friday night I when I filled up I checked my oil, it was about 1/2 way down the dipstick. That night I drove 25 miles and wound it to 5k about 3 times 6.5k about 5 times, the 6.5k were WOT the 5ks were just normal throttle. It ran fine after the spirited runs I cuised home the last 10 miles nothing over 4k after the 6.5k runs, thus allowing the engine to thermal cool down in a sense. Saturday I drove it 4 miles to get a car wash, it flooded pretty bad and when I got home I cleaned the plugs and stuck them back in, vowing to change the oil the next day(today). When I drove it out that night I noticed it was backfiriing a lot, like every time I took off from a stop and every shift except 4th and 5th. This was under light throttle too. I parked my car after driving about 13 miles and went to start it up again. I have hot-start problems so I knew it was gonna be a bitch before hand. Although this time it was different it would start but idle VERY low, almost not even registering on the tach. While it was idling I would give it gas, but it would rev up, after about 10 seconds it finally reved up I began to drive it normallay and when I went to coast down a small hill it dropped very low in the rpms then nearly died, before I popped the clutch. My TPS is outta wack so 99% of the times it pulses and doesn't idle. What I mean by out of wack is that it needs to be adjusted but my multimeter batteries are dead, which is something I was also going to do today. Well I made it home another 13 miles and shut it down. This morning began my maitence with a compression test. First cold, then warmed up. I did it cold and sadly my engine makes about 50psi cold on a standard compression tester with the check valve removed(that's extremely low). This was the first time I did a comp test so I cannot base my problem solely on compression. All of the bounces were steady. I went to start it up and it did the whole low idle thing but this time it didn't rev up. So I said F-it I'll pull the plugs and ATF it. Well when I pulled the plugs there was a milky substance on them on rotors 1 and 2. They reeked of gas. Damn I said, I'll check the oil and see how it smells. Well I pulled the dipstick off, there was oil on it, wiped it off dipped it and pulled it out. **** no oil at all! Did it again, same thing. My car smokes a bit, I thought it was a bad turbo, but I checked the intake right after the turbo and it was bone dry, not even any carbon deposits. So if the turbo isn't bad, then the VITON rings may be? The next thing I am gonna do is fill it with oil, ATF it, crank it up, give it a comp test and pray it's not blown from oil starvation. Does anyone know what the milky substance could be? BTW I've tried posting this 4 times now I hope it works!!!!

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

man that doesn't sound good at all! To bad I suck at any internal engine problems because it deffinatly sounds like you have one. At the risk of sounding retarded could they be your oil seals??? because for you to have oil yesterday and today you don't and there are no visable oil leaks it could only mean it is getting burned out.

ilike2eatricers

If you checked your oil while filling up and it only registered at half why didnt you add a quart or 2 at least. What did your oil pressure gauge read while driving around with low/no oil? I would say it's either your oil seals or you have a big leak somewhere.

vipers

iTrader: (8)

usually milky oil means coolant is getting in the oil....... but then you'd probubly have an overheating problem also..... possibly coolant getting into motor... thats what it sounds like to me.... but not sure

apreludem

/\ /\ agreed!

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

it could be coolant. it could be bad gas.

50PSI with the check valve out isn't bad, how high would it get up to with the valve in? my eneing would NEVER get above about 30PSI with the valve out, but it would go up to 115 with the valve in, it all depends on the design on the tester.

Parastie

There was a 30+ page thread not too long ago for something similar. Ended up being the front freeze out plug. Do a search for freeze out plug, you'll find the thread.

87cncnu

Check your coolant overflow tank and see if there's any oil in it. Milky oil usually means its mixed with glycol coolant, and some oil can get back intothe cooling system. That could be why you have loss of oil.

JAPSPECGTUs

I didn't add oil because I figured I'd keep a close eye on it, and if it dropped any more to just change the oil and add a fresh 5 quarts. My oil pressure guage is fucked has been for a while, stays stuck at the bottom, I cleaned the contacts on the sensor so it must be the guage. I didn't test the compression with the valve in because I just read my Haynes manual and did it how they said to. I will do that next time.....I'll check the overfill tank and other possible oil leaks. I burn oil so, it has to be somewhere. I need to bypass the turbo and check it, but now I don't know if my engine is just fucked. Aww ****.........Breaking in used engine housing engines is so ******* stressful sometimes! I won't be able to do this until Tuesday at the earliest.

JAPSPECGTUs

I am at 2900 miles.