old thread free with free mods, are they safe???
10-25-04, 02:43 PM
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87 T2
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old thread free with free mods, are they safe???
I was looking at a old thread today about free and cheep mods, I was wondering about one persons response who seems pretty knowledgeable, are these mods safe??? Who has done them already???? I have a stock s4 T2 and i dont wanna hurt nothin. :-)
Thread
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...8&page=4&pp=15
Response in question
"i have to agree w/ removing weight. i have taken off a/c and all the plumbing it came with, heater core and all the plumbing it came with, blower for heater(basically everything under the dash and in front of the radiator) i also have some cheap mods i like to share but they are not free and they go like this:
after you gut out your pipes or run your car open downpipe go to home depot or sum simalar store and get a air pressure regulator and put it in the vacum line between your wastegate and compressor side of your turbo(this is a homemade boost controller) adjust the regulator so the airflow is restricted to the wastegate therefor increasing boost.( i suggest no more than 10lbs) now befor you do this go to a pet store and buy a couple (about 5)of one way check valves (for fishtank air filters) go to an auto parts store and buy some tee fittings. put the tee fittings in the vacum line that goes to your map sensor and now put the one way check valves in a way so air will be bled from the map sensor therefor tricking the map sensor into thinking that the car is boosting less than it actually is.(this is a homemade fcd)each vale can bleed off about 2lbs of pressure i think.
regulator $10-$30
check valves $5-10 a pak
tee fittings $2-$5
FREE MODS:
you can also remove the boost regulateing vale(acuator valve) under the turbo. when you do this it will leave a little swinging thingy free to move around on the exhaust manifold. take that little thing and pull it twords the rear of the car and get it to stay that way (what i did was use sume plumbers tape i got frum home depot and used the 10mm heat shield bolt that is abot a inch and a half away frum the "thingy" and used the c clip to hold the plumbers tape onto the "thingy" and the bolt to hold the other end in place. this mod will keep your boost from falling. i don't feel like explaining how this works but if you ever take your turbo off you will figure it out.
there is a throttle body mod that requires some new gaskets.(the gasket that mates the upper and lower manifolds together) you must remove the upper manifold. remove the throttle body and remove the secondary throttle plates and the shaft that it sits on. in doing so you must remove thermo wax unit and some other stuff. you will also have to remove one thing on there i cant treally explain because all the **** looks the same but if you do not remove this you throttle can get stuck open(very very very dangerous) you can just play with it until it does get stuck and then you will know what to remove. you will also have to seal up the holes that are left when removeing the secondary shaft. i used JB weld but if you want to do it nicely you can thread the holes and buy plugs from home depot and don't forget to use teflon tape. if you don't feel like doing any of that there is a way to do this with every thing still intacked. find the dashpod on the throttle body that slowly opens the secondary plates after the primary ones are opened. unscrew the dashpod so that all th plates open at once.( if you have small hands you can do this without remove ing the manifold) this mod will icrease trottle reponse and airflow to the engine. in useing this method your throttle will not get stuck open(this method is suggested)
i also have other mods that have not been tested yet. if you would like to try them please post results:
go to radio shack or similar electronic store and buy some low resistance resistors. put these resistors between air temp and/or water temp wires. my theroy is that if you lower the voltage signal going to the computer the computer will think the engine is colder than it really is and make the car run richer. this has not been done yet so whatever happends to your car with any of the mods i listed here is not my fault. but i have done every mod on here except the resistor in the temp. sensors trick and my car is ok. the acuator valve trick is only for series 4 turbo engines('86-'88) as for all the other mods wher intended for turbo applications only.
air press. regulator $10-$30
air press. regulator fittings $5
fitting for precheck valves $5-$10 a pak
tee fittings $2-$5
JB weld $5-$10
resistors $1-$2
plumbers tape $4-$5 a roll
vacum hose $0.70 a foot
smokin the **** out of a honda that spent $999,999.65 on his car and you only spent $45
priceless............
"no pistons, no problem"
rotary power!!!"
Thread
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...8&page=4&pp=15
Response in question
"i have to agree w/ removing weight. i have taken off a/c and all the plumbing it came with, heater core and all the plumbing it came with, blower for heater(basically everything under the dash and in front of the radiator) i also have some cheap mods i like to share but they are not free and they go like this:
after you gut out your pipes or run your car open downpipe go to home depot or sum simalar store and get a air pressure regulator and put it in the vacum line between your wastegate and compressor side of your turbo(this is a homemade boost controller) adjust the regulator so the airflow is restricted to the wastegate therefor increasing boost.( i suggest no more than 10lbs) now befor you do this go to a pet store and buy a couple (about 5)of one way check valves (for fishtank air filters) go to an auto parts store and buy some tee fittings. put the tee fittings in the vacum line that goes to your map sensor and now put the one way check valves in a way so air will be bled from the map sensor therefor tricking the map sensor into thinking that the car is boosting less than it actually is.(this is a homemade fcd)each vale can bleed off about 2lbs of pressure i think.
regulator $10-$30
check valves $5-10 a pak
tee fittings $2-$5
FREE MODS:
you can also remove the boost regulateing vale(acuator valve) under the turbo. when you do this it will leave a little swinging thingy free to move around on the exhaust manifold. take that little thing and pull it twords the rear of the car and get it to stay that way (what i did was use sume plumbers tape i got frum home depot and used the 10mm heat shield bolt that is abot a inch and a half away frum the "thingy" and used the c clip to hold the plumbers tape onto the "thingy" and the bolt to hold the other end in place. this mod will keep your boost from falling. i don't feel like explaining how this works but if you ever take your turbo off you will figure it out.
there is a throttle body mod that requires some new gaskets.(the gasket that mates the upper and lower manifolds together) you must remove the upper manifold. remove the throttle body and remove the secondary throttle plates and the shaft that it sits on. in doing so you must remove thermo wax unit and some other stuff. you will also have to remove one thing on there i cant treally explain because all the **** looks the same but if you do not remove this you throttle can get stuck open(very very very dangerous) you can just play with it until it does get stuck and then you will know what to remove. you will also have to seal up the holes that are left when removeing the secondary shaft. i used JB weld but if you want to do it nicely you can thread the holes and buy plugs from home depot and don't forget to use teflon tape. if you don't feel like doing any of that there is a way to do this with every thing still intacked. find the dashpod on the throttle body that slowly opens the secondary plates after the primary ones are opened. unscrew the dashpod so that all th plates open at once.( if you have small hands you can do this without remove ing the manifold) this mod will icrease trottle reponse and airflow to the engine. in useing this method your throttle will not get stuck open(this method is suggested)
i also have other mods that have not been tested yet. if you would like to try them please post results:
go to radio shack or similar electronic store and buy some low resistance resistors. put these resistors between air temp and/or water temp wires. my theroy is that if you lower the voltage signal going to the computer the computer will think the engine is colder than it really is and make the car run richer. this has not been done yet so whatever happends to your car with any of the mods i listed here is not my fault. but i have done every mod on here except the resistor in the temp. sensors trick and my car is ok. the acuator valve trick is only for series 4 turbo engines('86-'88) as for all the other mods wher intended for turbo applications only.
air press. regulator $10-$30
air press. regulator fittings $5
fitting for precheck valves $5-$10 a pak
tee fittings $2-$5
JB weld $5-$10
resistors $1-$2
plumbers tape $4-$5 a roll
vacum hose $0.70 a foot
smokin the **** out of a honda that spent $999,999.65 on his car and you only spent $45
priceless............
"no pistons, no problem"
rotary power!!!"
10-25-04, 02:55 PM
#2
It's a Hammer
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Originally Posted by josh greene
(this is a homemade fcd)each vale can bleed off about 2lbs of pressure i think.
regulator $10-$30
check valves $5-10 a pak
tee fittings $2-$5
regulator $10-$30
check valves $5-10 a pak
tee fittings $2-$5
Last edited by dr.jones63; 10-25-04 at 02:57 PM.
10-25-04, 03:13 PM
#3
It's a Hammer
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Originally Posted by josh greene
you will also have to remove one thing on there i cant treally explain because all the **** looks the same
Originally Posted by josh greene
go to radio shack or similar electronic store and buy some low resistance resistors. put these resistors between air temp and/or water temp wires. my theroy is that if you lower the voltage signal going to the computer the computer will think the engine is colder than it really is and make the car run richer. this has not been done yet so whatever happends to your car with any of the mods i listed here is not my fault. but i have done every mod on here except the resistor in the temp. sensors trick and my car is ok.
10-25-04, 03:36 PM
#5
87 T2
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Also what about this one good or bad???
I just copyed and pasted this from another thread.
EGR modifications
The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve is a pollution control device that routes exaust gas back into the intake manifold at low rpm. While this lowers NOx levels, it reduces throttle responce and low-rpm power!
It's easy to disable the EGR valve. this modification works best in conjunction with fuel inrichment procedure already mentioned.
1. locate the EGR valve and the EGR vacuum modulator valve. They are usually located toward the rear of the engine...
the EGR valve has steel hard lines from the exhaust manifold to the valve itself. The ERG vacuum modulator has two vacuum lines from the intake manifold and one to the EGR valve. It has only one vacuum line going to it.
2. To keep the EGr valve from opening, put a BB from a childs air gun or similar plug in the line between the EGR modulator valve and the EGR valve. "
Then he make a statement about how it violates emissions standard and crap like that.
It works though.
I just copyed and pasted this from another thread.
EGR modifications
The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve is a pollution control device that routes exaust gas back into the intake manifold at low rpm. While this lowers NOx levels, it reduces throttle responce and low-rpm power!
It's easy to disable the EGR valve. this modification works best in conjunction with fuel inrichment procedure already mentioned.
1. locate the EGR valve and the EGR vacuum modulator valve. They are usually located toward the rear of the engine...
the EGR valve has steel hard lines from the exhaust manifold to the valve itself. The ERG vacuum modulator has two vacuum lines from the intake manifold and one to the EGR valve. It has only one vacuum line going to it.
2. To keep the EGr valve from opening, put a BB from a childs air gun or similar plug in the line between the EGR modulator valve and the EGR valve. "
Then he make a statement about how it violates emissions standard and crap like that.
It works though.
11-02-04, 02:50 PM
#6
this guy is full of **** to a large extent.
1) we dont have a MAP sensor. you can build a real FCD for $25 as mentioned above.
2) the 'thingy' is the twin scroll system. there is a writeup on removing it at fc3spro.com
3) the resistor thing is the same as what you see on ebay. however, the sensor increases resistance with heat, not the other way around, so what you would want to do is remove resistance, not add it.
4) the EGR has almost no effect on performace, but to disable it, just pull it off and throw it away.
there are much better lists of '"free" mods other places. all the ones listed above are not really good things to do. the boost controller would be effective, but itisnt such a great idea to mess with boost levels unless you know what youre doing.
pat
1) we dont have a MAP sensor. you can build a real FCD for $25 as mentioned above.
2) the 'thingy' is the twin scroll system. there is a writeup on removing it at fc3spro.com
3) the resistor thing is the same as what you see on ebay. however, the sensor increases resistance with heat, not the other way around, so what you would want to do is remove resistance, not add it.
4) the EGR has almost no effect on performace, but to disable it, just pull it off and throw it away.
there are much better lists of '"free" mods other places. all the ones listed above are not really good things to do. the boost controller would be effective, but itisnt such a great idea to mess with boost levels unless you know what youre doing.
pat
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