D'OH!!! A/C and PS already posted!!

 

I have to say about the EGR valve removal. I took mine off and my 7 now runs soooo much better now.

 

i have to agree w/ removing weight. i have taken off a/c and all the plumbing it came with, heater core and all the plumbing it came with, blower for heater(basically everything under the dash and in front of the radiator) i also have some cheap mods i like to share but they are not free and they go like this:
after you gut out your pipes or run your car open downpipe go to home depot or sum simalar store and get a air pressure regulator and put it in the vacum line between your wastegate and compressor side of your turbo(this is a homemade boost controller) adjust the regulator so the airflow is restricted to the wastegate therefor increasing boost.( i suggest no more than 10lbs) now befor you do this go to a pet store and buy a couple (about 5)of one way check valves (for fishtank air filters) go to an auto parts store and buy some tee fittings. put the tee fittings in the vacum line that goes to your map sensor and now put the one way check valves in a way so air will be bled from the map sensor therefor tricking the map sensor into thinking that the car is boosting less than it actually is.(this is a homemade fcd)each vale can bleed off about 2lbs of pressure i think.
regulator $10-$30
check valves $5-10 a pak
tee fittings $2-$5

FREE MODS:
you can also remove the boost regulateing vale(acuator valve) under the turbo. when you do this it will leave a little swinging thingy free to move around on the exhaust manifold. take that little thing and pull it twords the rear of the car and get it to stay that way (what i did was use sume plumbers tape i got frum home depot and used the 10mm heat shield bolt that is abot a inch and a half away frum the "thingy" and used the c clip to hold the plumbers tape onto the "thingy" and the bolt to hold the other end in place. this mod will keep your boost from falling. i don't feel like explaining how this works but if you ever take your turbo off you will figure it out.
there is a throttle body mod that requires some new gaskets.(the gasket that mates the upper and lower manifolds together) you must remove the upper manifold. remove the throttle body and remove the secondary throttle plates and the shaft that it sits on. in doing so you must remove thermo wax unit and some other stuff. you will also have to remove one thing on there i cant treally explain because all the **** looks the same but if you do not remove this you throttle can get stuck open(very very very dangerous) you can just play with it until it does get stuck and then you will know what to remove. you will also have to seal up the holes that are left when removeing the secondary shaft. i used JB weld but if you want to do it nicely you can thread the holes and buy plugs from home depot and don't forget to use teflon tape. if you don't feel like doing any of that there is a way to do this with every thing still intacked. find the dashpod on the throttle body that slowly opens the secondary plates after the primary ones are opened. unscrew the dashpod so that all th plates open at once.( if you have small hands you can do this without remove ing the manifold) this mod will icrease trottle reponse and airflow to the engine. in useing this method your throttle will not get stuck open(this method is suggested)
i also have other mods that have not been tested yet. if you would like to try them please post results:
go to radio shack or similar electronic store and buy some low resistance resistors. put these resistors between air temp and/or water temp wires. my theroy is that if you lower the voltage signal going to the computer the computer will think the engine is colder than it really is and make the car run richer. this has not been done yet so whatever happends to your car with any of the mods i listed here is not my fault. but i have done every mod on here except the resistor in the temp. sensors trick and my car is ok. the acuator valve trick is only for series 4 turbo engines('86-'88) as for all the other mods wher intended for turbo applications only.

air press. regulator $10-$30
air press. regulator fittings $5
fitting for precheck valves $5-$10 a pak
tee fittings $2-$5
JB weld $5-$10
resistors $1-$2
plumbers tape $4-$5 a roll
vacum hose $0.70 a foot
smokin the **** out of a honda that spent $999,999.65 on his car and you only spent $45
priceless............
"no pistons, no problem"
rotary power!!!

 

and last but not least all those expired insurance cards and junk papers in the glove box and center console... thats possibly a even pound or so lol..... remove the stereo speakers, amp alarm system, carpet... door panels head liner...thats all i can think of right now but the car will sure look shitty..in that matter... so keep the weight and just burn extra gas..

 

Here I got a new one!...some of us have our drain plugs in our spare tire well plugged up and water can sometimes seep in and collect there. Check it out and SHED the water weight and save a few lbs! Do that to yourself too, don't pig out as much during the Holiday Season...

 

yeah i had water n dirt clogged up in my drain plugs... unclogged den with a long metal wire hanger... as far as pigging out... im so dayum skinny that even if i put on additional weight, it wouldnt make much of an impact on the car's ability as far as weight is concerned. Looks like i got some things to do for the holiday season

 

yuck! instead of wiring 6 ports open why not just remove the six port sleeves? very little work... if ya know where everything goes...

 

Bow before me!

I'll probably end up getting the Mariah fiberglass hood and a lighter battery too. Maybe a lighter flywheel even. Can you say 250-260 hp and 2600 lbs? And that's with the AC, stereo power windows and all that still in there.

Corner weights with the GSL-SE 13B in there are here

Your god, ... oh wait, I guess that was 2000 lbs. Well I guess I'm just "pretty reasonable".

yours pretty reasonably,

 

My 90 GTU weighs ~2600 without the driver. And I still have full interior...well, at least it looks that way

Weight reduction:
remove a/c and p/s(i know its already been mentioned many times, but Im saying it again. That alone is over 75 lbs.

Exhaust. Has anyone ever weighed the full exhaust, or at least picked it up? It is extremely heavy. A full single exhaust could cut 50 lbs off your car.

This is ONLY if you have way too much free time on your hands. Pull the main carpet out and pull the foam and the rubber layer under the foam off so youre left with only carpet. That cuts the weight of the carpet from ~40 lbs to ~10.

Gas. Its heavy, 6 lbs per gallon. 1/2 weighs almost 50 lbs.

That really haevy mat under the carpet in the hatch.

 

It looks like the only "free" mods are things to remove.

I personally don't think it is worthwhile to remove all that stuff

If I were to remove the A/C, P/S it would be because they are either broken or don't want them and I'll have more underhood space to work with.

 

Eh guys, my car is a 2+2. Do the seats back there WEIGHT a lot? If it does, I will switch to just running with those storage containers instead! Let me know!

 

The backseats aren't very heavy. I think doing a whole weight reduction overhaul will make your car faster, but just the backseat alone ain't gonna do anything.

 

keepin it alive

 

How about aluminum underdrive pulleys, not free but reasonable cost, HP increase?