Rpeck

Damn, what the hell is going on here. I had another Clutch master cylinder pack up on me today. Thats 2 factory rebuilt MS's and one self rebuilt, and 1 brand new master cylider that has packed up on me in about a year. Any ideas what is going on? Look at my sig for clutch model, is my clutch to stiff for the stock MS? anyone else having this problem? do they make a steel, or upgraded MS for these cars? Could it be the break fluid I am using? Vavoline Syn Power DOT3 & Dot 4 compatable.

ACT Street/Strip Z65-HD00 Clutch W/SS line

thanks,


Robert

Rpeck

Okay addicts here is a couple of pics; first the plunger of the one that failed tonight.

Rpeck

One more thing thats real bizzare. Here is a shot of the brake fluid; it's really gray looking. Don't mind the debris, that was in the bucket before (lawn clippings or some ****) but the color is accurate.

Rpeck

P.S. don't mind my dead sexy hands. Yes, I am a hand model also

Bambam7

Replace your slave!!
You've got an SS line.. maybe the lining is disintegrating!
Did you put the right sort of fluid in? (Not joking.. power steering fluid can mess up brake cylinders...it will seal leaking ones temporarily though! Baloons the seals Then just flush and refill with brake fluid)
But ya, replace the slave clinder.. surprised it hasn't already gone, normally they go withing a few months of each other, whatever is weaker getting blown out by replacing the opposing cylinder with a new, stronger one.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Bambam Is right on the money, atleast In my experiences he Is. When I did the TII Conversion, I did It right. Nothing was overlooked. I bought a new ACT Clutch (Z65-XT00), MS, SC and a ss Clutch Flex Line.

Results? I kept popping my Slave Cylinder due the flex line. This was happening when I was bleeding my line! It happened 3 times and I finally tracked It down to the disentigration of the Internal wall. 3 times were enough and than I went with a new OEM Line and I've been fine since.

Icemark

There is a lot of mosture damage on that seal for the piston as well. After rebuilding/replacing the slave and flex line (as well as the master cyl) use Castrol LMA brake fluid. It does not absorb water as much as some of the others.

Remember you should always replace the flex line and rebuild or replace both the slave and the master if either one fails.

Rpeck

Fellas, I have replaced the slave cylider at least 2 times. Last time this happened, I refused to buy another remanufactured MC, so I ordered a brand new MC & SC and replaced both. It was fine this time for about 5 months. I thought it was fixed for good. As for the Stainless steel line, its less than a year and a half old, and its stainless, I don't see the need to replace that again, its expensive, and special order only. ... plus how could it be the problem, stainless does not rust.

Ice if you say it looks like moisture wear, I will take your word for it, but: I live in a warm climate, and the car is garage kept only, I don't even drive it to work, or drive it in the rain. I am too afraid of the 'other driver' in bad weather.

At this point I am beging to suspect the brake fluid. The grey color of the brake fluid looks just like if you were wet sanding alluminum, same texture, and appearance. I went and read the bottle, it's Vavoline SynPower full synthetic dot 3 & dot 4 complaint. I use it in my braking system cause it is fulll sythetic and has a vapor lock temp of above 530 Deg. F. The brake fluid resivoir is not grey, and looks perfect. The bottle says it is fully complaint and useable in all DOT 3 and dot 4 Hydrolic brake, ABS, and clutch systems. I do not recall if I used the same fluid the first 2 times it failed, but I know I have used the fluid the last 2 times.


here is a link to the exact fluid I am using;http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=51


thanks for the input fellas... I 'guess' I should flush the brake fluid and try another brand??? is that my best bet at this point?

-Robert

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

It's the Internal wall of the flex line. Watch. You'll find the flex line to be the culprit In time.

Rpeck

okay, so you are telling me to replace the Corksport stainless steel line that is just over a year old, and has less than 2500 miles on it? how long are they sposed to last? how often will I be putting them in? I don't get this at all.


-Robert

RoninAutoBoX

Just because something was designed for your car, does not mean it was designed well.

The outside of the line may be stainless steel, but that is just a sheathing. The material inside may be teflon or rubber.

Rpeck

well then what is the idea? The stock one would not hold up to the pressure of the upgraded clutch/PP so I had to get the stronger SS line so it did not stretch when using the clutch. I thought a SS clutch line upgrade was very typical, almost madantory with a PP/clutch upgrade... why are others not having this problem?


-Robert

Icemark

Moisture enters the brake and clutch fluids, either through absorption from high humidity in the air, and/or by boiling (overheating) the fluid (which if there is already a good amount of moisture, the boiling point drops pretty fast).

The higher humidity, the more often that you need to replace the fluid.

Even just sitting in the can unused on the shelf brake/clutch fluid will absorb water/moisture. Always make sure that you open a new can and use it. Never ever use brake fluid from a can that has been opened for more than 4 weeks.

And again, use the Castrol LMA. LMA stands for Low Moisture Absorbing.

Kai

I also fail to see why the inner hose of a braided stainless line would fail. I have a CS braided line waiting to be installed, and if I can find a good reason to not do it, I won't.