hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Ok here we go I got my spark plug wires in today so I hooked them up and I was on the road! First thing I noticed was grossly under powered a lot of smoke smelled like gas so I thought this was really strange, I thought about it for a while and descided to put the charcole canister back in and to un-block off the hose from the intercooler to the tb. Results......less smoke however still gas smell and way underpowered. Next thing to try I removed the msd coils and put the stock coils on and also unplugged the pressure senser. Results.......Daymnnn! This is the way the car is supposed to drive! I was pealing out and getting 10psi or more of boost! no hesitation or anything! So what was the cause of this happening, I have no idea! was it the coils or was it the pressure sensor being hooked up??? I'm kind of reluctant to put the other coils on being that it is working so good now. What do you think was the cause??? Also one of the coils is about 5 or so years old so it may be bad. I may need to just get another msd coil. Anyways now the last problem is this, my idle is set to 1500rpm, do I set the idle by using the bac valve screw???


Ps. the round mistery thing next to the pressure sensor must have been a make shift pressure sensor that this guy made before I got the car. He was a mechanic for the army so I'm sure he knows how to african american engineer pretty well

pps. still don't know what caused the hesitation for me??? I changed:

1. plug wires
2. tps
3. regrounded
4. set tps
5. coils however that wasn't it because I put the old ones back on.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

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ddub

What's that supposed to mean?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

my fiance was in the army for quite some time and she use to tell me stories of how the mechanics use to rig things all the time. Smart guys, they could fix anything just not with the right stuff Anyways out of all that info I just said thats the only thing you could add ???

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

check this out wayne! Nice to see you on again! I was dying without you here

WAYNE88N/A

Dude, you're crazy, you ramble on worse than I do

OK, the main thing that popped in my head is your regrounding- did you add new grounds, and leave the OEM ones on there? This may be causing your hesitation, and is the reason that when you connect your boost sensor up (like it's supposed to be!), she runs like ****. You guys and your grounds, lol...

The coil thing, I dunno...Where the MSD coils grounded to the chassis like the OEM ones, or did they need a seperate ground through wiring? Never used them before...

Still haven't figured out the "round mystery thing", eh?

Answer me this- how many different grounds do you have going from the engine block to the chassis? You only need one (not counting the battery cable down there)...Multiple ground potentials confuse the **** out of the ECU (how many times have I said this?, lol)

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I only have one going from the block to the chassis. Well............Actually I added one from the block to the chassis so probably two Anyways I'm not sure about the grounding to the coils because there wasn't anything that specified that I need to have them grounded however I had a metal piece over them then bolted to the chassis and also there is a positive and negative going to each ground. Sorry for the rampling I kinda get exsited when my car finally works right! Thanks again!

marlaman

Hey what style of MSD coils did you install?

Matt

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

blaster 2

WAYNE88N/A

A positive and a negative going to each ground??? You must not have worded that right...

My favorite saying has always been "If it works, don't f#ck with it"...But the loss of your boost signal is what worries me. Could it be you just have a bad sensor? Read the input out at the ECU while driving...If you're getting any kind of a linear voltage movement on the meter, then your "round mystery object" just might be what you said, although that would amaze me to no end...

Now, for your idle, I'm all confused, because you've posted all kinds of stuff that I don't remember now, lol...High idle is the result of: 1) too much fuel, or 2) too much air (or both, lol). Take a guess as to which it might be and go from there with the troubleshooting. Make a list of everything you've touched on the car since this adventure of yours has begun, and figure out at what point you might have screwed things up...Try Bill's way of setting the mechanical part of it (can't remember- I think it was on another thread, maybe one of your 17 you got going). Or, start at the top with the FSM...I can't fix it for ya with a keyboard, because it seems you've touched everything trying to find something that would work for ya, lol...

WAYNE88N/A

Sorry, it was SonicRat, not Bill, that told you how he sets the idle adjust screw, in the "I just adjusted my idle and..." thread you had going. Have you tried that?

BlackRx7

I have not had any problems with my current ground setup, as in the archives, but like someone said, your grounds are only as good as the crimps

WAYNE88N/A

Yeh, if your OEM grounds (or harness) is crap, adding a new ground will solve some problems. The problem is that if your harness is crap, it's not just the grounds that are affected, but the power wires also, and it takes two to tango, so to speak, for an electrical circuit to function properly.

If your OEM grounds & harness are in good shape, however, cleaning up the existing grounding points is much better than adding new electrical pathways that the ECU "sees".
If our sensors' output voltages were much higher than they are, it wouldn't matter so much...

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

thanks again for the help guys. First off yeah I ment to say a positive and negative going to each coil sorry. I'm going to try to hook the pressure sensor back up to see what happens but here is the problem the round thing that has a vac line going to it next to the pressure sensor has two wires that go to the first vac silenoid right under the oil filler tube. Now you know how each silenoid has a connector like the green one goes to the sileniod for the twin scroll actuator on turbo models? Well it looks like from the harness the connector that is supposed to go to the first silenoid is broken and this is why he used those two wires to go from the "round thing" to some broken wires and then into the silenoid. Strange I know but this guy like to rig things. One day when I find a good engine harness at a descent price I'm going to replace it because the one in my engine is shot to ****! As far as the idle being to rich or to lean I always smell a crap load of gas so I'm sure it is to rich. Also before there is any more misconseption about me being the one that keeps messing with the stuff braking it I'm not!!!

History of car: I bought it from a guy around my area. This guy loved to rig things especially electrical. I had it for about 1 year and then parked it because I got pissed off at it (new to rotarys and how picky they can be) well someone stole the original safc out of it and pulled my cd player and broke a bunch of interior peices doing this. Well after the safc was gone and it had been sitting for a while the car would not run. Well I sold the car to a friend because I needed money to finance a trip I was going on. he had big plans for the car and added things to it like new safc, fuel pump, 720cc secondaries etc... however the mechanic that worked on it was not the best (not a rotary mechanic) so the project fell by the way side and I then traded a computer to get my baby back! Well after this long saga I said it was about time to do something right to this car for a change and restore it. I completely gutted the interior and replaced carpet, seats etc... well when I started gutting this interior I started noticing more and more how the orginal guy I got it from loved to rig wiring! and this also goes for in the engine bay as well. So this hole time I've been asking questions and stuff is to undo whatever it is that this guy did. Ok sorry for the ramble just thought I would let you guys know.

Rx7MPGUY84

dammit honda bastard. u fixed urs before i fixed mine. now come over to fl and fix mine. good to hear your back on the road.

HAILERS

It was the MSD coil arrangement. Leave the stock coils in.

The round thing sounds like a replacement for the twin scroll solenoid. I assume this is a series four? So idle the engine. Pull the vac line off the twin scroll actuator (the line that goes to the twin scroll canister), while idling. Watch and see if the actuator for the twin scroll moves when you remove/reinstall the vacuum line. If it does, reinstall that vacuum hose .....then while idling, pull the elect plug off that round thing and see if the twin scroll actuator moves or not. It should. If it does, leave well enough alone OR buy/get a solenoid to replace the original one.

NEVER unplug the pressure sensor vac line or electrical plug. Go get a piece of spare vac line. PUt it on the bottom of the pressure sensor. Suck on it. Does it hold a vacuum? Does? Then reinstall the original vac line and leave it alone.

Or invest in a MittyVac.Put the MittyVac on the pressure sensor. Then back probe the pressure sensors brown/red wire and put the meter on volts. Turn the key to ON. Look at the volts. Now with the MittyVac gradually put PRESSURE on the pressure sensor. Result: the voltage should go up. If a FCD is installed.....the voltage should stop around 3.65 volts, give or take .2. IF there is no FCD then it should go up to approx 4volts give or take.

The idle is way to high. The throttle cable should not be dead tight.

If it isn't, check for a vac leak at the inlet duct to the turbo AT the connection AT the turbo. Then look and make sure the hose b/t the bac and the intercooler feed duct is not leaking.

Then make sure no blockoff plates are leaking.

If that does not work, pull the bac and put a solid gasket b/t the bac and its mounting place and reinstall the bac. If the idle goes down when you do that.....then the bac is stuck open a touch and is not fully seating during its cycling.

If that does not help, then reinstall the bac in it's original configuration. Then spray the intercooler in and out ducts with starter fluid to see it they are leaking.

If that does not work....buy some PVC pipe and elbows from Home Depot. Install them in lieu of the intercooler. Then idle the car. You can now look at the throttle linkage while the car is idling. Adjust the idle stop screw while idling til it releases from the linkage. Did the idle lower? If it did, that was the problem.

Did not? Then get a mirror and look a the fast idle cam and make sure it came off its roller and adjust if needed. That was good? Then take a look a the secondary throttle plates linkage and see if the black cam and its damper are sticking when the throttle is fully opened. Probably not related to your idle though.

While idling, lift up on the thottle linkage in a CLOSED direction. Did the idle subside? NO? Then its a vacuum leak somewhere IF the throttle stop screw is not touching its stop.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Thanks man! Your having the same problems with hesitation??? If you are I think seriously it was my tps. After I replaced it no more hesitation. ANyways thanks hailers for all the suggestions. I don't think the round thing has anything to do with the twin scroll actuator because the green connector is still there just not connected to a silenoid because the twin scroll is not hooked up. I really think the idle just has to do with the idle posisioning screw. Also I am going to hook the pressure sensor back up I think your right the bad stuff happening didn't have anything to do with that but everything to do with the coils. Thanks again man!

WAYNE88N/A

All right, man...If you got it running good enough to make you happy, quit messing with it, lol

Hailers had some good ideas on your idle- have you followed his ideas and gotten anywhere?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I wish I could just not mess with it now I've got freakin illumination problems (tail lights not comming on) and my idle witch as soon as I figure this tail light problem out hailers ideas are the next in line. Thanks again wayne for your help!