I'm getting my turbo back today and was wondering if it would be ok to use that high temp rtv for the gaskets for water and oil feed and returns. Thanks.

 

I would say yes. Just use the high temp one. I normally use "ultra black" but I hear good things about ultra blue and ultra copper but I dont' recall their specific uses atm.

Santiago

 

thanks man! I've got the ultra black that I'm going to be using.

 

I used the Red for my front cover, water pump, water pump housing, and oil pan. I guess I could have used blue. But overkill never hurt anything. Every where I read except inside the motor of course. Everyone was like I don't need no stink'n gaskets!

Oops forgot ACV block off plate.

 

lol funny ****! Yeah who needs a stinkin' gasket anyways

 

Good luck, it wont work and will burn off immediately. You would have to find rtv rated for 1300 degrees minimum.

 

The exhaust manifolds are not running at 1300 degrees. I have used Copper with good success. The areas that squeeze out may melt away eventually though.

Edit...I use a thin layer of RTV over the existing gaskets, not instead of. If you are using RTV to replace a gaket, you NEED to strictly follow the instructions on the tube. Obviously, this stuff isn't any good at replacing an EXHAUST gasket, but I use it on the exhaust gaskets to help fill in areas with may cause leaks.

 

ok you know the water and oil lines that are comming off the turbo? I'm talking about putting rtv not at the turbo but where those lines plug in at the engine. Would this work??? Thanks everyone for your input so far.

 

I think the oil line uses crush washers......

 

Water uses crush washers at the turbo.

The water lines should not have RTV before the turbo. Get a gasket or make one. A SMALL amount of RTV would be ok but make sure it won't get pressed into the tube/flow path.

My turbo rebuilder said that is a major culprit of turbo failure.
The RTV can break off and get stuck inside the turbo and restrict flow.

Obciously it won't matter after turbo for oil since it's goin to the oil pan.

 

ok sounds good looks like I'm going to have to buy some gasket making material from autozone.

 

"Edit...I use a think layer of RTV over the existing gaskets, not instead of. If you are using RTV to replace a gaket, you NEED to strictly follow the instructions on the tube. Obviously, this stuff isn't any good at replacing an EXHAUST gasket, but I use it on the exhaust gaskets to help fill in areas with may cause leaks." -Aaron

I think thats best, to lay a thick layer of rtv ontop of the existing gasket...i've seen this on many shows ( hp block on spike Tv :-p) and thats what they always recommend.

 

My EGT on my DP reads 1300 under load. Go figure, ever make your DP red?

Copper didn't work for me and I think its because over time my mating surfaces got small cracks and warpage. That's why the stock gaskets are made to crush and are torqued to something like 40 ft/lbs.

Copper crush gaskets are recycled by re-annealing and just torque to perscribed ft/lbs, bolts with holes in them break and are a bitch to replace.

I cut my own gasket using a sheet of header gasket material that only cost $7

 

ok don't worry about it I used gasket material and made my own then I went ahead and used a layer of black rtv.

 

I HIGHLY recommend using a water type material gasket for the water pump housing to block. Just went through a prob that I couldnt figure out (small leak leading to larger finally found housing leak). There is vibration as well as a weird shaped mating surface (as well as some washers that balance for the gasket) on the housing. It just makes sense to use a gasket here(or for the waterpump itself). My wife actually cut the gasket for me out of material I grabbed from the parts store so I didnt have to wait.

There are a lot of places that you can get away with just RTV, but IMO gaskets were designed with a specific purpuse that RTV just cant replace.It more acts as a liquid bandaid that can crumble over time from heat and moisture.

I could go on but you get my point. If I know I will be keepin the car for as long as possible I want assurance my work doesnt need to be repeated.

 

Yes, quite red. But your EGT sensor is measure the temperature of the exhaust gases, not the pipe. The pipe will be quite a bit cooler.

The torque spec on them is about 25LB, if I remember correctly.

 

I'm with Tiers, for a whole bunch of applications RTV is the best thing since sliced bread, but it wasn't designed (in any flavor) to take on the grueling temperatures of our rotarys' exhaust or turbos. Use the gaskets manufactured for that purpose. Thin layer of the high-temp stuff is OK, just don't expect it to do the job of the gasket. Agree with the water pump gasket being a must, also, even though I've ran for over 10K miles with just red RTV sealing my thermostat neck to the water pump housing with no leaks. I didn't have a gasket at the time of the rebuild, and fully expected it to start leaking by now (have a new gasket on hand now waiting for that day, lol)