is it ok to use rtv for gaskets on a turbo?
#4
Letting the Smoke Out!
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I used the Red for my front cover, water pump, water pump housing, and oil pan. I guess I could have used blue. But overkill never hurt anything. Every where I read except inside the motor of course. Everyone was like I don't need no stink'n gaskets!
Oops forgot ACV block off plate.
Oops forgot ACV block off plate.
#7
Engine, Not Motor
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The exhaust manifolds are not running at 1300 degrees. I have used Copper with good success. The areas that squeeze out may melt away eventually though.
Edit...I use a thin layer of RTV over the existing gaskets, not instead of. If you are using RTV to replace a gaket, you NEED to strictly follow the instructions on the tube. Obviously, this stuff isn't any good at replacing an EXHAUST gasket, but I use it on the exhaust gaskets to help fill in areas with may cause leaks.
Edit...I use a thin layer of RTV over the existing gaskets, not instead of. If you are using RTV to replace a gaket, you NEED to strictly follow the instructions on the tube. Obviously, this stuff isn't any good at replacing an EXHAUST gasket, but I use it on the exhaust gaskets to help fill in areas with may cause leaks.
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 10-26-04 at 03:19 PM.
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#10
I break Diff mounts
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Water uses crush washers at the turbo.
The water lines should not have RTV before the turbo. Get a gasket or make one. A SMALL amount of RTV would be ok but make sure it won't get pressed into the tube/flow path.
My turbo rebuilder said that is a major culprit of turbo failure.
The RTV can break off and get stuck inside the turbo and restrict flow.
Obciously it won't matter after turbo for oil since it's goin to the oil pan.
The water lines should not have RTV before the turbo. Get a gasket or make one. A SMALL amount of RTV would be ok but make sure it won't get pressed into the tube/flow path.
My turbo rebuilder said that is a major culprit of turbo failure.
The RTV can break off and get stuck inside the turbo and restrict flow.
Obciously it won't matter after turbo for oil since it's goin to the oil pan.
#12
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"Edit...I use a think layer of RTV over the existing gaskets, not instead of. If you are using RTV to replace a gaket, you NEED to strictly follow the instructions on the tube. Obviously, this stuff isn't any good at replacing an EXHAUST gasket, but I use it on the exhaust gaskets to help fill in areas with may cause leaks." -Aaron
I think thats best, to lay a thick layer of rtv ontop of the existing gasket...i've seen this on many shows ( hp block on spike Tv :-p) and thats what they always recommend.
I think thats best, to lay a thick layer of rtv ontop of the existing gasket...i've seen this on many shows ( hp block on spike Tv :-p) and thats what they always recommend.
#13
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
The exhaust manifolds are not running at 1300 degrees. I have used Copper with good success. The areas that squeeze out may melt away eventually though.
Copper didn't work for me and I think its because over time my mating surfaces got small cracks and warpage. That's why the stock gaskets are made to crush and are torqued to something like 40 ft/lbs.
Copper crush gaskets are recycled by re-annealing and just torque to perscribed ft/lbs, bolts with holes in them break and are a bitch to replace.
I cut my own gasket using a sheet of header gasket material that only cost $7
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I HIGHLY recommend using a water type material gasket for the water pump housing to block. Just went through a prob that I couldnt figure out (small leak leading to larger finally found housing leak). There is vibration as well as a weird shaped mating surface (as well as some washers that balance for the gasket) on the housing. It just makes sense to use a gasket here(or for the waterpump itself). My wife actually cut the gasket for me out of material I grabbed from the parts store so I didnt have to wait.
There are a lot of places that you can get away with just RTV, but IMO gaskets were designed with a specific purpuse that RTV just cant replace.It more acts as a liquid bandaid that can crumble over time from heat and moisture.
I could go on but you get my point. If I know I will be keepin the car for as long as possible I want assurance my work doesnt need to be repeated.
There are a lot of places that you can get away with just RTV, but IMO gaskets were designed with a specific purpuse that RTV just cant replace.It more acts as a liquid bandaid that can crumble over time from heat and moisture.
I could go on but you get my point. If I know I will be keepin the car for as long as possible I want assurance my work doesnt need to be repeated.
#16
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Originally Posted by dr.jones63
My EGT on my DP reads 1300 under load. Go figure, ever make your DP red?
Copper didn't work for me and I think its because over time my mating surfaces got small cracks and warpage. That's why the stock gaskets are made to crush and are torqued to something like 40 ft/lbs.
#17
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by Tiers
I HIGHLY recommend using a water type material gasket for the water pump housing to block. Just went through a prob that I couldnt figure out (small leak leading to larger finally found housing leak). There is vibration as well as a weird shaped mating surface (as well as some washers that balance for the gasket) on the housing. It just makes sense to use a gasket here(or for the waterpump itself). My wife actually cut the gasket for me out of material I grabbed from the parts store so I didnt have to wait.
There are a lot of places that you can get away with just RTV, but IMO gaskets were designed with a specific purpuse that RTV just cant replace.It more acts as a liquid bandaid that can crumble over time from heat and moisture.
I could go on but you get my point. If I know I will be keepin the car for as long as possible I want assurance my work doesnt need to be repeated.
There are a lot of places that you can get away with just RTV, but IMO gaskets were designed with a specific purpuse that RTV just cant replace.It more acts as a liquid bandaid that can crumble over time from heat and moisture.
I could go on but you get my point. If I know I will be keepin the car for as long as possible I want assurance my work doesnt need to be repeated.
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