apreludem

my question was: "my car idles at 1700-2000 rpm and when i start the car..i have to keep on pressing the accelerator for around 1-2 minutes otherwise the car dies..after that it runs by itself"

i was told to check the bac..unplug the bac electrical connector while the car is running..and if it does nothing...then i need to replace it...well i did that and the idle dropped and the car died....so does this mean that the bac could be bad?? or could it be something else?? please someone help!

-apreludem-

Ryde _Or_Die

How long have you had the car? Has it always done this? Reason I ask is when you do the TB mod, you have to baby it until its warm for it to idle on its own.

apreludem

actually i bought the car like one month ago...i havent done any tb mod....but i dont know about the previous owner...how would i know if the car has the tb mod done to it...and what IS the tb mod?? thanks man

-apreludem-

apreludem

anyone? please help someone

HAILERS

Well the bac seems to be working since the rpms dropped. Evidently your saying this problem concerns the car when first started up cold. If thats so, then you need to buy/download the factory manual and check the setting of the thermowax, the setting of the timing, the setting of the idle(initial set coupler inserted, etc).

I don't know if you have a turbo or n/a. Sounds like a n/a. I have no earthly idea why anyone would do the throttle body mod. Basicall ripping out a set of the throttle plates. Look into the throttle body with the intake duct disconnected. Move the throttle and observe if you have one set of throttle plates on the top and two sets on the bottom(could be just the opposite way, two sets on top and one on bottom, depends on the car, turbo or n/a).

The fsm or factory service manual is self explanitory on what the thermowax and double throttle are. Pictures etc. Follow the fsm and you'll do ok. Bac's fine, probably. Unless the car is idling at 1700 or so when the car is fully hot. Then the bac could be the problem. You sound like its doing the high idle when the car is cold, so its not the bac. Factory manual free at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com or fc3s.com Avoid the Haynes if possible. With the exception it does have some pictures that are of some help. Problem is some of the pictures are not for your car, but for other models. Alphabet soup manual. Makes a good coaster for your favorite drink, though.

apreludem

yeah..my car is not turbo....but it does the idle at 1700-2000 when the car is hot
so you think it could actually be the BAC?

HAILERS

Yeah. If the car is fully hot, as having been driven around for say a half hour or more, and the idle is high like 1700rpm, then the bac is probably bad. You said you took the bac plug off when it was at this high idle, and the rpms dropped llike a rock.

A bac should not react like that. Read this article http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html and just ignore the remarks about the turbo etc. Just read the bac parts of the article. On the whole yours works as described, except you have no adjustment screw on it like the turbo.

The bac has a duty cycle that varies. Its not a open/shut valve. It works at approx 125 hz. I've had one bac that would seem to seemingly stick, at about 1200 rpm. I could trick it to idle under that by turning the key off and right back on, but as soon as the engine rev'd over 1200 it would return to the 1200 idle. So I swapped out bac's with another I have and all was well. The old one is soaking in some spray lubricant for the last three months. I'd forgot about it until now. Might try to reinstall it and see if that helped.

So its off to the wrecking yard with you, although you might try to clean it with some spray lubricant (shy away from WD 40 please. It causes corrosion. Hows that for a long post?

apreludem

thanks hailers...i'll try to replace the bac
wonder how much they are