--MAstermind--

i have a serious 600dollar budget....this friday.....

engine has less than 60k and compression tested at 95psi...
so....i have a bone stock. S4 TII(mazdaspeed pressureplate RBstreetstrip)


things i need:
i NEED a new tirodend/tirerods..

i hear i should invest in a boost guage...BUT i want a De'fi but that alone takes halft the budget (so i think i wanna wait on this one..)

i NEED a new shifter(going short throw mazda trix...or the RE shortthrow taht that dood is selling from japan)

wheel alignment and i wonder if its worth the 100 for the lifetime alignment service?

new rear suspention (cuz i have some 8ways offa a JDM car in the front and it raked the car...(looks kinda mean) and my passenger rear seems to be leaking a little...

things i want...
exhaust OR downpipe
FCD(cuz of the exhuast)
enhanced cooling in any way possible
oil baffle plate
BOV...(greddy type S)
stainless lines all around

not too sure about it:
brembo brake disks and some redstuff/greenstuff pads...(it stops good BUT i belive some of the front driverside has been grinded down into cuz of the calipers BOLT so....yea. )

i know i ask a **** load of questions BUT i just wanna get all my **** strait and u guys tend to straitin' people out pretty quick round these here parts.....

SwiftTone

if the place actually does good alignments, then its worth $100. I charge $240 for one alignment alone, but i take the time to make it *perfect*. Theres a difference between *perfect* and in specs.

I have a Autometer $50 boost gauge and works perfect. I wouldnt go with the Defi, unless i wanted the blang blang and to show off.

Funkspectrum

iTrader: (5)

you're not going to do all of that with 600 bucks.
I'd hold off on the exhaust and such until you sort the suspension out...

Tierod/tierod ends - junkyard
boost gauge - autometer
shifter - use a miata short throw...EBay. theres a writeup on this in the archives.
rear suspension - find someone who is selling tokicos for the rears with springs...

All of THIS:
exhaust OR downpipe
FCD(cuz of the exhuast)
enhanced cooling in any way possible
oil baffle plate
BOV...(greddy type S)
stainless lines all around


They can wait until you have more $$

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

With $600, you're not going to do a lot. First, fix everything that's wrong with the car. Tie rods are a major safety issue. And you'll need to have the car aligned after you replace them. Do you need a shifter? Why, is the old one broken and no longer functional? If you have brake issues as you have alluded to, then that's going to eat into your budget as well. After the necessary repairs, you might have a few hundred left that you should probably spend on that boost gauge and stainless oil lines. Then after the car is 100% (and safe!) and you have some money, you can look at the exhaust (which will then require the appropriate weastegate porting, FCD, maybe fuel mods, etc.).

iceblue

This seems to just be asking for opinions really. You seem to be scattered on your parts. Don’t expect to make a racecar on 600$ you need to build a base always first or you will just end up braking stuff. First get anything that needs replaced. Get the life time alignment so that whenever you make suspension adjustments you can bring it on in for free. Before you go boosting 12psi with your new found fcd and exhaust man you need to upgrade that fuel or the new compression numbers will be 000 000. You need a gauge when doing this or you wont know what your creeping to with that stock WG and your new compression will be 000 000 again.

The BOV and SS lines and short shifter thoughts are all great and safe things to do go for em. Just get new bushings when you replace the shifter.

Go ahead and replace them 2 struts and bushings I mean why not?

Increase your cooling capacity if you find it is needed.

introVert

^^ True, true

I know it is tempting to get the cheap mods so you can get more done at once, but if you have the discipline/savvy to start with reliabliliy mods & progress to each system (brakes, suspension & handling, in that order) getting the best your budget allows before you start throwing power adders on, you will be much happier with your seven when all is said and done.

--MAstermind--

ok tie rods.....rear suspention..( sould i get new KYB rears? since i have used fronts? or what plus the car is raked.....and brakes and lines...ima price this out.....

thanx for the input and guiedance...you know..this stupif tach is killin me wobbling all over the place...randomly....it looks like a practical joke....i checked the coils (like i was told) and like everything is good...so i dunno what else to do!

RETed

95psi of compression is not that great of a number.
Mines will do 110psi. :P


-Ted

--MAstermind--

ofocourse urs is 110 my motor is like probly in the 40-60k range and plus the motor is URS! lol so yea but as far as suspention goes....i feel wrong spending the cash....for rears when i know i save a little more and i can get coilovers....but suspention is alot like an exhuast isnt it....matters of opinon? tien i hear need rebuilds more oftin than the JIC's i was looking into the tien RA's or possibly JIC FLT2's what would you suggest in that case...

RETed

I don't like any of the pre-built coilover kits.
I prefer Koni yellows with GC coilovers.


-Ted

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I'm very happy with my ground control coilover kit.