any MODDED FD's stayin sequential
any MODDED FD's stayin sequential
jsut another newbie Q...
im gonna get a stage 4 kit from rx7store.com
intake
DP
mp
exhuast
PFC
pulley
FMIC
fuel pump
i LOVE the way the second turbo KICKS...will i have any probs stayin sequential..?
im gonna get a stage 4 kit from rx7store.com
intake
DP
mp
exhuast
PFC
pulley
FMIC
fuel pump
i LOVE the way the second turbo KICKS...will i have any probs stayin sequential..?
i plan on stayin seq. for a while. I'm gettin every bolton part you could think of (after i find some of that damn stuff called money) and probably runnin higher boost out of the stock twins until they collapse.
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Well SEQ is awsome but once you get a MP that is when **** goes down hill for the system and the spike becomes to risky and you will blow the motor or the secondary turbine. It will happened so dont fool yourselfs guys. Anyhow with just a little bit of modding SEQ rocks but once you get to a high level of performance the SEQ system is worthless and very dangerous IMO. All the high end STOCK TURBO guys are all NON-SEQ.
-Rikkity Split
-Rikkity Split
Trending Topics
i like the stock twins because...
1. they came with the car
2. they give pretty good power
3. almost no lag
I dont like them because...
1. Single turbo supras own me
2. I want to put 400rwhp on pump gas
3.(insert anything that i forgot other things that i forgot)
1. they came with the car
2. they give pretty good power
3. almost no lag
I dont like them because...
1. Single turbo supras own me
2. I want to put 400rwhp on pump gas
3.(insert anything that i forgot other things that i forgot)
I've been running sequential for almost two years with a full exhaust (midpipe), M2 med IC, and Pettit computer
like rikki says, the spikes can be dangerous, that's why you have to dial them out, I have the dawe's devices boost controller on the wastegate acutator line and a home depot needle valve (dialed WAY down) on the pre-control line
with that set-up, I get absolutely no spike, just a strong kick to 11-12 psi, quickly building to 13-14 psi.....I like the sequential, at least on the street.....it REALLY helps in 5th gear highway roll-ons and street driveability....Mazda didn't just have their head up their ***, although the rat's nest makes you wonder sometimes (the Supra is dead simple by comparison)....
now, if my stock motor ever lets go at some point in the future and I want to try to squeeze every last drop of hp out of a new ported engine with big injectors, then non seq (or of course single) makes alot of sense
for now, I just enjoy the car and try to limit blowing huge wads of cash on it.....any money spent on a 3rd gen RX-7 is a ZERO OR NEGATIVE RETURN INVESTMENT, in case you haven't figured that out yet
I can't believe how many people spend $15k in parts on these cars and then turn around and sell the car for $15k....amazing.....do these people deal crack or what?
like rikki says, the spikes can be dangerous, that's why you have to dial them out, I have the dawe's devices boost controller on the wastegate acutator line and a home depot needle valve (dialed WAY down) on the pre-control line
with that set-up, I get absolutely no spike, just a strong kick to 11-12 psi, quickly building to 13-14 psi.....I like the sequential, at least on the street.....it REALLY helps in 5th gear highway roll-ons and street driveability....Mazda didn't just have their head up their ***, although the rat's nest makes you wonder sometimes (the Supra is dead simple by comparison)....
now, if my stock motor ever lets go at some point in the future and I want to try to squeeze every last drop of hp out of a new ported engine with big injectors, then non seq (or of course single) makes alot of sense
for now, I just enjoy the car and try to limit blowing huge wads of cash on it.....any money spent on a 3rd gen RX-7 is a ZERO OR NEGATIVE RETURN INVESTMENT, in case you haven't figured that out yet

I can't believe how many people spend $15k in parts on these cars and then turn around and sell the car for $15k....amazing.....do these people deal crack or what?
I'm staying seq until problems force me to go another route.
I've run 12.3 @116 no problems @13lbs.all bolt ons. Would non seq alone make me faster ?
Yes when I tried a midpipe with manual boost control spiking problems were an issue.
Spiking can be almost elimated with the profec b and a quality high flow cat w/o(in my case)an et
penalty.It's fun taking someone not used to these cars for a ride and they think is's all over until 4500
rpms really sets them back in the seat.It also must be nice to feel both turbos come on line at the same time.
I've run 12.3 @116 no problems @13lbs.all bolt ons. Would non seq alone make me faster ?
Yes when I tried a midpipe with manual boost control spiking problems were an issue.
Spiking can be almost elimated with the profec b and a quality high flow cat w/o(in my case)an et
penalty.It's fun taking someone not used to these cars for a ride and they think is's all over until 4500
rpms really sets them back in the seat.It also must be nice to feel both turbos come on line at the same time.
I think a medium size aftermarket single turbo is the best overall solution, if you have the cash....the bottom line is the stock turbo manifold stinks for high flow, it just wan't made for that
hopefully mazda will go single for the 4th gen 7
hopefully mazda will go single for the 4th gen 7
sequential until mechanical issues force me choose otherwise. I'm not much into racing so it's no big deal for me. I need instant, streetable power not ***** out. Fd's in particular are faster than the vast majority of cars one will encounter on the street right out of the box. Then add my mods and it really is way more than enough power for city driving.
someday I will probably change my mind though... when (not if) I get into track racing.
someday I will probably change my mind though... when (not if) I get into track racing.
wanted to share somehting with u guys, i have a dp, mp, intake and m2 stage 3 ecu. after i put the midpipe i would spiek to 14-15 lbs then stay at 13-14 lbs. i did not have any pills in my lines, my car is a 94 my pills i built in the nipples on teh actuator themselves. atelst thats what people told me. so this is what i did to fix my boost problem. when i installed this with both valves closed i got a 7-5-7 boost pattern after playing some with teh valves i got to 10-8-10 and no spiking. i was doing this on a cold night..on hot days i get 9psi of boost.
stock
mine
stock
mine
also wanted to add, i disconnected the wastegate and prespool solenoids from controlling any boost, the lines goign to those solenoids fromteh actuators are long and i believe this is the problem and that is why peopel see spiking because the wastegate cant open early enouf when it sees teh boost after the car has been modified. i did not see any lag in teh boost buildup, i still get teh full 10 psi before 2500 rpm or so. i still ran a line to the actuators from a manifold for them to see boost, because i am not exactly sure how the oil injectors operate, vacuum/boost?, the way its routed now will still allow for the positive pressure inteh manifold get to the solenoids and teh oil injectors.
after installing the neede valves i closed them completely and that is when i saw teh 7-5-7 boost pattern then slowly started to open both valves untill i got the desired boost pattern.
the lines goign to the wastegate and prespool actuators are very short and the lines i used for the needle valves are teh stock lines that connect to teh metal tubing that leads to the solenoids so as soon as the boost starts building your wastegate will react immidiately. if any of your belive taht a ball and spring will be better off to open the wastegate at alittle later time to try to get teh turbos to spool faster u can try that out, but like i said i didnt notice any lag in the gettign to the desired boost level. i see full boost before 2500 rpm.
for now i have the valves just hangign tehre on the hoses untill i make some sort of a bracket to have them rigidly mounted.
this allows me to keep the stock boost level untill i upgrade to a bigger intercooler and then i can turn it up some
here is a pic of what it looks like
after installing the neede valves i closed them completely and that is when i saw teh 7-5-7 boost pattern then slowly started to open both valves untill i got the desired boost pattern.
the lines goign to the wastegate and prespool actuators are very short and the lines i used for the needle valves are teh stock lines that connect to teh metal tubing that leads to the solenoids so as soon as the boost starts building your wastegate will react immidiately. if any of your belive taht a ball and spring will be better off to open the wastegate at alittle later time to try to get teh turbos to spool faster u can try that out, but like i said i didnt notice any lag in the gettign to the desired boost level. i see full boost before 2500 rpm.
for now i have the valves just hangign tehre on the hoses untill i make some sort of a bracket to have them rigidly mounted.
this allows me to keep the stock boost level untill i upgrade to a bigger intercooler and then i can turn it up some

here is a pic of what it looks like
Stay sequential until you have problems.
My car is MUCH smoother and more predictable now that I only have like 6 vac lines though
I suggest you do the quick method first to make sure that you like it. I just jumped in head first and threw away everything.
My car is MUCH smoother and more predictable now that I only have like 6 vac lines though
I suggest you do the quick method first to make sure that you like it. I just jumped in head first and threw away everything.
I am sequential with no problems.
Cold Air, IC, CP Midpipe, CB, PMC, boost controlled by Profec B, boost pattern 14-12-14 with no creep. Wastegate has not been ported. A:F holds between 11.2-11.4 from 3000-8000 rpms.
Cold Air, IC, CP Midpipe, CB, PMC, boost controlled by Profec B, boost pattern 14-12-14 with no creep. Wastegate has not been ported. A:F holds between 11.2-11.4 from 3000-8000 rpms.
It's never fast enough...
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,760
Likes: 3
From: Miami - Given 1st place as the POOREST city in the US as per the federal government

Sequential for 4 years and for probably ever

I got full exhaust and PFC and other little goodies. I knew midpipes have a tendancy to bring along boost spikes, so I fixed the problem before it became a problem
I've been non-sequential for over a year now. non-sequential is nice for highway blasts and midrange downshifts but it's nothing that can't be accomplished with sequential. Overall sequential is much better than NS in most situations on the street. Your turbos can last longer running high boost if you're NS but I'm going back because I miss having full boost by 2500 rpms. With NS you ALWAYS have to downshift into the power range or your driving an Accord. If you have problems then convert - if not stay with the better setup.
I really never considered the idea of a single. I am a seq. guy. I bought the car because I loved the seq. system, to replace it removes its very reason for being.
I am not sure what everyone is talking about with the midpipe. Is it creep? Whenever I had creep it was always something wrong with one of the vacuum hoses.
I would say if you don't maintain the system you're prone to running into problems.
Overall I am extremely happy with the seq. setup.
cheers
W
I am not sure what everyone is talking about with the midpipe. Is it creep? Whenever I had creep it was always something wrong with one of the vacuum hoses.
I would say if you don't maintain the system you're prone to running into problems.
Overall I am extremely happy with the seq. setup.
cheers
W
SuperStreetPort
PortedThrottleBody
K&N Intake
Full Exh, DP,MP,no restrictions
PFC
Never had creep or spikes with the PFC, and I will stay seq for a while, im looking into upgrading the twins at Pettit and stayin seq...
PortedThrottleBody
K&N Intake
Full Exh, DP,MP,no restrictions
PFC
Never had creep or spikes with the PFC, and I will stay seq for a while, im looking into upgrading the twins at Pettit and stayin seq...


