ok im pissed... starting issues again!
#1
Thread Starter
I have a rotary addiction
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Columbia, Tennessee
ok im pissed... starting issues again!
OK... Since my no start problem first arose, I have gotten the car to start about 8 times. Thinking that I fixed the problem I drove to the gas station to fill up tonight and when I jumped in to go home...."turn key" nothing!
I have taken the battery, alternator, and starter out of the car and had them tested at Autozone. All tested perfect (passed all tests). I sanded a bunch of connectors and ground points as well. Wal Mart even gave me a brand new battery yesterday to replace the 2 month old one that I had in it previously.
Just to be clear, spark and fuel are NOT the problem. The battery drains down to 10-11 volts when I turn the key. When I DO get the car running, it stays steadily at about 12.3ish volts. The car push starts easily.
What else could there be???
---If the ignition switch was bad would the radio and everything be able to turn on?
---In the FSM I read about the interlock switch (I think that's what it was...) located in the upper dashboard it looked like. Would this be the problem??
I try starting the car in gear, out of gear, clutch in, clutch out etc etc... doesn't matter.
I have taken the battery, alternator, and starter out of the car and had them tested at Autozone. All tested perfect (passed all tests). I sanded a bunch of connectors and ground points as well. Wal Mart even gave me a brand new battery yesterday to replace the 2 month old one that I had in it previously.
Just to be clear, spark and fuel are NOT the problem. The battery drains down to 10-11 volts when I turn the key. When I DO get the car running, it stays steadily at about 12.3ish volts. The car push starts easily.
What else could there be???
---If the ignition switch was bad would the radio and everything be able to turn on?
---In the FSM I read about the interlock switch (I think that's what it was...) located in the upper dashboard it looked like. Would this be the problem??
I try starting the car in gear, out of gear, clutch in, clutch out etc etc... doesn't matter.
#2
I don't know how many times I need to post this... maybe I need to add it to the FAQ for FC:
Normal operating voltage for cars is 14.4 volts. This is where the voltage should be when the engine is running. If it is not at this voltage, there is something wrong with the alternator or charging system or wiring.
13.5 volts is the bare minimum to charge the battery. Anything less than 13.5 volts while the engine is running is bad and indicated that the alternator is failing or mis-wired.
12.6 volts is battery voltage. If the car is at 12.6 volts or lower while the engine is running, then the charging system is not sufficent to even keep the car running and the car is running on the battery. This indicates that the alt has failed, or is disconnected.
above 15 volts is very bad. 15 volts is the maximum that the electrical system works at. Above 15 volts and there is the potential of burning out electrical parts in the car such as the lights and computers. 15+ volts indicates the egulator in the altrnator has failed or is disconnected.
Normal operating voltage for cars is 14.4 volts. This is where the voltage should be when the engine is running. If it is not at this voltage, there is something wrong with the alternator or charging system or wiring.
13.5 volts is the bare minimum to charge the battery. Anything less than 13.5 volts while the engine is running is bad and indicated that the alternator is failing or mis-wired.
12.6 volts is battery voltage. If the car is at 12.6 volts or lower while the engine is running, then the charging system is not sufficent to even keep the car running and the car is running on the battery. This indicates that the alt has failed, or is disconnected.
above 15 volts is very bad. 15 volts is the maximum that the electrical system works at. Above 15 volts and there is the potential of burning out electrical parts in the car such as the lights and computers. 15+ volts indicates the egulator in the altrnator has failed or is disconnected.
#3
Thread Starter
I have a rotary addiction
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
I'm just guessing... I'm going by the factory guage which for all I know could be off by a volt or so. The parts are in good order and wired correctly. My problem is with the clutch sensor (whatever it's called). I just went outside and turned the key...nothing... I had the key turned and started pumping the clutch pedal.... it turned over and immediately started up. The car runs 100% perfect even under "heavy electric load" (interior fan, radio, lights, turning the steering wheel etc...).
Besides, the car has been jumpered to another running car and the voltage remained the same according to the stock meter. It still did not try to turn over. It is related to the sensor.
I just tested the starter/alternator (at 2 different places) and they test out good. It can't be in the wiring because insufficiant or incomplete wiring would not just all of a sudden be able to cary enough current.
Besides, the car has been jumpered to another running car and the voltage remained the same according to the stock meter. It still did not try to turn over. It is related to the sensor.
I just tested the starter/alternator (at 2 different places) and they test out good. It can't be in the wiring because insufficiant or incomplete wiring would not just all of a sudden be able to cary enough current.
#4
i have the kinda same issue...but when i turn and hold the key for 15+ second it'll start sometimes...and i have no idea why...same like you put new ground, battery, starter, alternator.. i want to know whats wrong to?
#5
Originally Posted by NCross
I'm just guessing... I'm going by the factory guage which for all I know could be off by a volt or so. The parts are in good order and wired correctly. My problem is with the clutch sensor (whatever it's called). I just went outside and turned the key...nothing... I had the key turned and started pumping the clutch pedal.... it turned over and immediately started up. The car runs 100% perfect even under "heavy electric load" (interior fan, radio, lights, turning the steering wheel etc...).
Besides, the car has been jumpered to another running car and the voltage remained the same according to the stock meter. It still did not try to turn over. It is related to the sensor.
I just tested the starter/alternator (at 2 different places) and they test out good. It can't be in the wiring because insufficiant or incomplete wiring would not just all of a sudden be able to cary enough current.
Besides, the car has been jumpered to another running car and the voltage remained the same according to the stock meter. It still did not try to turn over. It is related to the sensor.
I just tested the starter/alternator (at 2 different places) and they test out good. It can't be in the wiring because insufficiant or incomplete wiring would not just all of a sudden be able to cary enough current.
It is not like a digital multi-meter from radio shack is $100... you can get a cheap one for under $30
#6
Originally Posted by NCross
I'm just guessing... I'm going by the factory guage which for all I know could be off by a volt or so. The parts are in good order and wired correctly. My problem is with the clutch sensor (whatever it's called). I just went outside and turned the key...nothing... I had the key turned and started pumping the clutch pedal.... it turned over and immediately started up. The car runs 100% perfect even under "heavy electric load" (interior fan, radio, lights, turning the steering wheel etc...).
Cliff notes: Don't trust the stock gauge.
#7
Originally Posted by NCross
I just tested the starter/alternator (at 2 different places) and they test out good. It can't be in the wiring because insufficiant or incomplete wiring would not just all of a sudden be able to cary enough current.
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#9
I found that if I hold the clutch in for a long time (a minute or so), the sensor dosen't read anymore and the car will not crank.
But just releasing it and pushing it back in fixed that problem.
Or my sensor is going kaput too... oh man. Knock on wood.
But just releasing it and pushing it back in fixed that problem.
Or my sensor is going kaput too... oh man. Knock on wood.
#10
Thread Starter
I have a rotary addiction
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
Trust me, I know the stock guages on ANY car are not coorect. Especially the temperature and fuel gauge! Someone with an FD told me they taped a penny to the clutch switch to keep it "engaged" and it solved the issue. Whatever works...
I can get one from an 88 SE parts car for free. That should be compatable right? I know it's a different transmission and what not.
I can get one from an 88 SE parts car for free. That should be compatable right? I know it's a different transmission and what not.
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