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ok I did something really STUPID!!!!!!!

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Old 04-06-04, 05:34 AM
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ok I did something really STUPID!!!!!!!

last night a couple buddies and i were pretty hammered. we started working on my TII and fucked something up. I was changing alternators and the one i put on did not have the grounding stud on it so i tried to ground it to another bolt on the back of the alt. when i put the batt. cable back on it was not pretty, it popped my 80 amp main fuse and fucked something up in the ignition. now when i go to turn the car off with the key and let the turbo timer count down to shut the car off it wont... it just counts down and does not shut it off. i have to pull the damn fuel pump fuse or what ever it is to cut fuel off to shut it down. any ideas on what is wrong??????? has this happened to any one else??? the only thing i can think of is that it sent a surge to the turbo timer and shorted it out... what do u guys think? thanks in advance
Old 04-06-04, 05:55 AM
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Moron, that's not a Grounding stud on the back of the alternator. That's 12V positive. If the replacement alternator didn't come with the insulated black mounting stud, you should have re-used your old one off the bad alternator.

Is the turbo timer the only thing that is f#cked up? Sounds like you fried it. Should have had a fuse on the turbo timer.
Old 04-06-04, 05:59 AM
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my buddy shorted that, blew the 100 amp fuse by the driver side strut tower i think.
Old 04-06-04, 06:03 AM
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if i did fry the turbo timer will that cause my car to not shut offf with the key i mean the turbo tim. does everything it used to except for shutting the car off
Old 04-06-04, 07:42 AM
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The turbo timer has a collapsing relay circuit in it that opens the realy and shuts the car off after a predetermined delay time... when the timer see voltage, the relay shuts, thus allowing your car to start, run, etc.. when the ignition signal is shut off, the "Delay" or collapse of the circuit starts, if you fried the relay, it will most likely be welded in the closed position and cannot open... thus the turbo timer will not work.....

you may be able to take it apart and replace the relay, or switch that is causing the problem if you are handy with a voltmeter and a soldering gun.

Oh, and yes, that was really f'n stupid, that'll learn ya to work on your car when your f'd up... <edited for flaming>

Last edited by Icemark; 04-06-04 at 10:01 AM.
Old 04-06-04, 10:01 AM
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No flaming!
Old 04-06-04, 10:03 AM
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its soooo tempting....
Old 04-06-04, 02:06 PM
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Shoot, drinking in the garage is a moral imperative!...

Sounds like you did some damage thought!
Old 04-06-04, 02:20 PM
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live and learn, its pretty funny that you got hammered and then started to wrench on your car though im suprised you guys didn't take it for a test drive right after


if you can't afford a new turbotimer, just unplus it and be like everyone else and just wait like 2-5 mins while your car cools down and then turn it off manually

Last edited by skunks; 04-06-04 at 02:22 PM.
Old 04-06-04, 02:30 PM
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also remember

If you remove your turbo timer and decide that for some reason you really do need to idle down your car that our turbo's are water cooled. Meaning you don't need to let it idle for any length of time unless you just came off bost (as in 5 seconds before you shut off the car) If your a bit paranoid anyways, wait 30 seconds at the most and shut it off. Otherwise your really just building up extra heat under the hood that we all know we don't need any help building... It will be fine not to worry.

Any time you are not in boost, your turbo is cooling down. Keep that in mind... someone else has said all of this before me, I just relay info when needed.

Now that Oil cooled turbo I have in another one of my cars is a different story.
Old 04-06-04, 03:58 PM
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thanks guys for all your help
Old 04-06-04, 04:32 PM
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if its fried.. don't buy a new one.

You don't need one. The turbo is oil and water cooled... you don't need a turbo timer. Just don't boost the last oh say 1/2 mile from your house.. or go WOT up the driveway and you'll be fine.
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