Alright, here is my to-do list for the winter. I will take any and all input from you guys to heart. Where to start, what to try, etc. Let's try and get my car running smoothly.

Fix exhaust leak. Pretty sure I need a new manifold. If so, I will have my new one polished before replacing.
Anyone have a good exhaust manifold for sale? Should I replace all the gaskets while I'm at it?
Replace passenger side power window switch.
It all of a sudden stopped working when I replaced my driver side switch, so I'm assuming taht it is just the switch. Could be the motor, however.
Fix odd idle. Not sure what is wrong here, could be a number of things. This one is kinda scary.
My idle is really screwy. Sometimes it will bounce between 550rpm and 1100rpm... other times it will idle solid at about 1100rpm, then intermittently drop to 750ish before coming back up to 1100.
Replace Pulsation Damper. I think it might be gone, as I had a small engine fire. So I'm doing this as preventative.
Any idea of the best course of action here?
Fix gauge lights. They went when my starter did. Tough to drive at night without a speedometer.
As well as lights on my logicon. Burned out switch? Need to take apart my gauge cluster? Should I have it rebuilt, or try and find a good condition used switch?
Find a hub for my Nardi steering wheel.
Any input here would be great.
Hot start issues
When the car has been warmed up and driven for a considerable amount of time, if I turn the car off, I will not be able to start it without pulling the EGI Comp fuse, turning it over, then replacing the fuse. If I let the car sit, however, for a couple of hours, it will fire up. I've heard I need to send my Fuel Injectors off to be blueprinted/balanced/cleaned/etc. Or is there something else I need to look into?

Thanks in Advance.

 

I may have a spare S4 turbo manifold for ya....I have to look when I get home this weekend.
You should replace the gaskets too...

I'm actually looking for a pass window switch too...

Odd idle....i'm dealing with the same thing but at a more extreme level. The things you can do is make sure the timing is set, the TPS is adjusted and there are no vaccum leaks.
Those will get you started in on the right track.

PD...I dunno a single thing about it....

Guage lights...chances are, its just a fuse. If not, you have to pull out the cluster and make sure everything is connected. The little bulbs are a bit of a pain to get to but once you're in there it's not so bad.

Nardi hub....ebay...

Hot start issues ca essentially be one of two things IIRC...injectors or compression. Check compression first...rule that out. then send your injectors out to be cleand and balanced...one or two of em could be leaky....

 

Let me know about the manifold ASAP... thanks in advance.

 

exhaust Manifold..... Unless its cracked... no sense replacing it. Can't polish most exhaust manifolds cause they are made of cast iron. Bead blasting it and painting it with VHT are about the only option. definately replace gasketts

Pulsation damper... Holy GOD replace that thing, especiall if you already had a fire.... You can either replace it with a stock one, which is your best course of action if you don't plant on doing any big fuel system upgrades like me!!!! or go the Marren Route which will require some fuel system modifications such as -an fittings and braided line, etc.

I have a good used PD from my TII, 15 bucks and its yours, shipped to Canada! but, Honestly, it makes sense to fork out the cash for a NEW one or eleiminate it all together (i DO NOT LIKE THAT IDEA, but some say it doesnt matter.. I KNOW you need one, but don't have any hard facts other than personal observations... so i'm not getting into that battle)

Idle.. Since you had an engine fire.... I would go through and replace EVERY vaccume line you have with silicone vac lines and Zip ties this is the 1st thing i do when i get a car in with idle problems. Also.. you want the idle to be around 850-900 RPm.. 1100 is WAY to high.

Gauge Lights and Logicon lights.... Have you tried a fuse????? Get the FSM for the s4 off teamFC3S.org, it has the full s4 wiring diagram in it. Could be the switch, Could be a burned ground or supply wire as well. all the power to the lights on the dash are supplied from a fuse at the fuse box. check the fuse, then Replace the switch with a known good switch, then go from there.. if the switch isn't the problem, you can always sell the one you bought.

Hot start...... Check Compression, if compression is good.. could be a coolant seal.. if they go in certain places, it can lead to hot start issues, this happened to me, I had no white smoke, just a faint smell of anitfreeze in the exhaust, and the damn thing would NOT start after running if i let it sit for more than a few seconds until it cooled for an hour. My case, the friggin front iron had cracked along the water jacket and the coolant seal had flurped out. ran fine as long as it was running, compression kept the water from getting into the housing while the car was running.

If you go no coolant smell and are not using coolant, then it could be leaky injectors, try the mazdatrix leakdown preventer, its a little thing that you splice into the fuel lines and it has a small jet that will rapidly bleed off the pressure in the fuel rail after you shut of the car and will not affect it when its running. If that fixes the problem, its your injectors and they will need rebuilt/replaced.

 

I'm pretty sure the leak is from a cracked manifold... haven't removed it to take a good look yet. I will most likely go the bead blasting/paint route... if anything at all.

Oh yes, I know I need to replace it. I will be going the stock route for now.

Yes, I know I need one too. PM me your PayPal address. Any idea of what a new one will cost?

The idle was wonky before the fire. Since the fire (which I believe did affect a vacuum hose). All vacuum lines will be replaced soon. And yes, I know 1100 is too high, that's why I noted it. Thanks!!

Haven't tried a fuse yet, not entirely sure which fuse it is... will check this out once I get my car to my mechanics shop.

Do I need to take my car in to have the compression checked, or how do I do it myself? Should I take it to the dealer?

Definitely no coolant smell. I will look into the leakdown preventer.

Thanks for the excellent reply.

 

I won't be able to let you know on that manifold until friday....That's when I go home...

 

Alright thanks, let me know.

 

no problem d00d

 

I also have a s4 turbo manifold, seems in good shape other than it has the light surface rust on it that all iron manifolds seem to get if unpainted. $10 plus shipping and its yours. let me know. pm me or e-mail me. jeffhartman01@hotmail.com

 

$10 bucks plus shipping is a killer deal....

 

just finished a s5 swap into my s4.... between that and my parked n/a ive got to start gettin rid of lots of parts!

 

Jeff... got PM

 

a 18 dollar banjo bolt will fix all your pd problems.

 

Hey, send me your mailing address in PM, cause I'm the idiot who told you the MOMO / Sparco / Nardi were all the same size bolt patterns.

I've got a spare BOSS hub with the dual bolt pattern that SHOULD fit your Nardi no problem.

Because of my stupid mistake, I'll send you the hub for FREE!


-Ted

 

Uhm, Wow. Simply. Wow. You have PM.

 

wow,

 

RETed is the ****!

 

Yes, yes he is. He won't even let me pay for shipping!