Ice_Wolf

So, I've been thinking about oil system upgrades, but all I could think about is oil cooler, oil filter, oil, different style drain plug, remove OMP/change OMP setup, replacement oil cooler lines, and different oil cap. Are there any other mods available?

xclusive_one

i've heard the oem oil cooler is top notch ... but i would certainly change the oil cooler lines... i heard if those go out you only have a few seconds to save your engine

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

The rotary engine block itself has one of the best oiling systems in a production engine in the world. It is near bulletproof, really. Unless your engine will see consistent track duty there is no need for any changes.

You do need to be sure your oil cooler lines are replacements, and it's never a bad idea to pull your oil cooler, remove debris, straighten all fins, and have it flushed. Then be sure your plastic underbelly tray is in place to direct air through the cooler.

Ice_Wolf

Never knew the stock oil cooler was so good, but I've never heard of having any problems with it. I have heard that same thing about the oil cooler lines too. That's what made me want to replace them in the first place. Who makes replacement lines?

That's cool to hear about the oil system being that top notch. I never knew it was really that awesome. The underbody tray is in place, I made sure to put it back on the car after reading how important it was. I'll have to search around the auto shop for a comb for the fins. How do you go about flushing it out and removing the debris?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

sent it to an aviation repair shop. or rig up a solvent solution to a pump (such as a parts washer) to pump through for a few hours.

The stock FC oil coolers are upgrades for most vehicles on the road. I am putting one on my Denali as part of the twinturbo install. I also fitted one on the rx-8.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

BTW, corksport and mazdatrix both offer SS braided replacements for oil cooler lines. I believe turblown also sells them on occasion. The corksport are the cheapest at about $130, and quality is great...they are on my car.

Wankel7

Unless you put a big ol FMIC infront of the oil cooler...then it seems to get toasty

James

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I have an FMIC in front of my oil cooler...granted I do not monitor oil temps but so far the coolant temps have not been affected (and high oil temps can cause higher coolant temps).

Of course my car will never see the track, so.

WingsofWar

i rigged up 3 fans to the stock oil cooler core and i relocated the angle in which it sits, along with SS lines, when i get a chance im gona install my relocation kit from enterprise. So far never had any oil problems what so ever running castrol GTX 20w50.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Hate to say it Kevin, but I think the complete OEM system is quite horrible.In my experience when I have removed the thermostat the oil temperatures still stay very hot( 220+ coming out of the engine under light loads)

Wankel7

With my Koyo, stock oil cooler, and a Greddy FMIC...for got which one but the smaller one which is still huge. Running stock fan, underbelly is there, and put some foam in places the air might slip past my rad/oil cooler.

Rolling down the highway in dallas (90F heat ) 60+mph water is 180F and oil is 180F. Start getting on it water creeps up to maybe 184. But oil starts working up to 190F.

Beating on the car at night 70s on the back roads water stays under 190 but oil has gone up to 230 before.

Not monitoring your oil temps...I guess ignorance is bliss because sometimes I wish I didn't know Honestly, if you have a modded turbo car with a fmic you need to know oil temps...because they really do not follow water. If your water is out of sight chances are your oil is to hot already and won't cool down as fast as the water will.

The thing I have noticed about oil is it takes SO much longer to lose the heat than water. Put the heat on, fresh air, and full blast you can see an almost immediate reduction in water. But oil...takes several minutes to calm back down with my setup.

Edit - Here is a write up I did for flushing the oil cooler. The airplane repair shop is a good idea. But this is the clean it on the cheap https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=cooler
James

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget one 'safety' check that is good to do (I'm a hypocrite - haven't done this myself) is during an oil change to check the oil level sensor to make sure it is grounding when there's no oil. See FSM "Body Electrical" Chapter for the complete description. You want to make sure you get that low oil warning, every second counts.

Ice_Wolf

Well, seeing as how I don't have a turbo engine, I don't think I'll have to worry about the oil getting too hot since I don't have a turbo to cool, and don't have a FMIC to block the oil cooler. Oil temps shouldn't be a problem with my setup.

After doing some reading, it looks like the stock oil coolers are supposed to be the best ones made for our cars. Not only hearing this from forum members, but also Mazdatrix states it too. So needing to upgrade the stock cooler isn't needed. I'll do some looking around to see if there's any shops in the area that could flush the cooler, otherwise I'll follow the writeup posted in this thread and then comb the fins straight again. Now, I do remember reading something about the FD running two of them stacked on top of each other. Is this true?

Where would you be able to find cooling fans small enough to fit on the oil cooler? That would be a cool and easy upgrade to help lower the temps and extend oil life.

I'll probably be purchasing the Mazdatrix SS braided lines sometime in the future after I finish a few more important things on the car. This would be a nice upgrade though.

Are there any companies that make aftermarket oil caps for our cars? My stock one has a crack in it, and I know I can get another stock replacement, but wanted to know if anyone made different style ones or not.

xclusive_one

you know you should probably get the lines from corksport ... they're $70 cheaper... mazdatrix sells some nice rotary type caps but are kinda pricey, i'm sure if you search around you find what you're looking for

Roen

iTrader: (2)

If you have money and are planning to do a lot of track duty, you could look into a Mazda Competition oil pan or a dry sump, but that could be overkill.

SS Oil cooler lines are nice
If you really want to upgrade your oil cooler, which again is probably overkill, then take a look at the Mazda Competition Oil Cooler
Upgraded OPR (Oil Pressure Regulator) could be useful as well
Oil Baffle Plate and some new oil pan gaskets could be done while changing out the oil pan or just changing out the gaskets.

This isn't oil related, but if you're going to do some oil pan work, you might as well change the motor mounts to stiffer rubber mounts if you plan on competing with the car in a class that lets you swap mounts, solid mounts if you don't mind tons of vibration and are hardcore about racing, or stock OEM mounts if you like the feel of the car in it's OEM form.

You can also check if you're leaking oil from the oil pan, the front cover gasket or the oil level/oil pressure senders. I had to do a complete oil job before to eliminate leaks, I'm trying to think of another place, but this is all I can think of at the moment.

You might also want to do the RB Thermo bypass pellet or the metric washer shim e-shaft pellet mod at the same time.

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

A Pineapple Racing oil pan will give you a bit more oil capacity.
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...ROD&ProdID=106
More Info:
https://www.rx7club.com/pineapple-racing-171/new-fc-fd-aluminum-oil-pan-thread-637399/

FDs run different oil coolers. The R1 & R2 models had dual coolers.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

Is the Mazda Comp + Baffle Plate a better solution than the Pineapple Racing with internal baffling?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Perhaps I should clarify...I don't monitor oil temps on this car...but I have on cars I built in the past. I found it to be just another gauge and source for worry on the street...and with the FMIC my oil temps stayed betwee 185 and 210, only getting up there when the rpm's were consistently above 3500. I think once or twice I saw it get to 220-225.

Again, in my opinion there's no need to monitor oil temp on the street.

Seriously...on a streetcar, modded or not. Tell me when was the last time you saw a guy complain that his car tore up because his oil temps got too high? IT doesn't happen on the street, as long as you don't run low on oil supply.

On a track car where rpm's stay in the upper 2/3 of the range at WOT...sure, it's highly important, I give you that. These guys are justified in having enough gauges to be a 747 cockpit. ON the street, it's just foolishness to have gauges hanging everywhere to worry about. All you need is boost, oil pressure and water temp.

IF you live in a hot climate and run quality 20/50 (like you should be) then you don't have to worry about the oil breaking down until 250+. And you will not see temps that high in a street car unless you are riding around in a low gear to keep your rpm's up and rev mad high y0.

If you're dead set on doing an oil system upgrade, then do what I did, and put the FD front/rear regulators in your FC block for higher pressure, run SS braided oil cooler lines, flush and repair your cooler, and go on your way.

Computer fans will do nothing but make noise and probably impede airflow as much as they help it. Plus they arent made for the high temps and would probably die in short order.

IF you are building a highly modded car you can remove the a/c core, and this will help flow through the oil cooler significantly, since there is a heat shield RIGHT behind the oil cooler on the a/c core that no doubt affects flow of air through the oil cooler.

SpooledupRacing

what is it with u and wanting to go over board on everything for yoru car.. I haveyet to read anything about you doing a tune up and fluid changes but u want the biggest best brakes, biggest best oil system and the best brake fluid for a daily driver.. maybe its just me but I think u should worry more about the overall condition of the car first and get everything figured out, do some driving and trackdays and THEN see what u need to improve

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, it does seem kinda odd...most posts focus on what the "best" stock parts for each model/series was and how to swap them all together, even though not all those parts are interchangeable.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

More info please!

Where does it relocates the oil cooler too?

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

About the same here

Ice_Wolf

The reason I wanted to get the lines from Mazdatrix is because I've been a huge fan of their company for a while now. I've been able to get OEM parts from them for a very decent price and always have been able to find what I need on their website.

Those caps are nice I agree, but I can't see myself spending 40 dollars or more on an oil cap. Guess I'll probably just stick with the stock one.

I'm not looking to do a lot of track duty, and don't plan on spending the money on something that's going to be overkill. I'm sure those Mazda Competition parts are very expensive and only for serious track use. I'm sure that the pan costs at least 300 dollars, and the Pineapple Racing one is like 350. I'm sure that oil cooler would run at least 500 then. Not the kind of money I'm looking to spend ATM.

Where can you buy upgraded OPR at?

IIRC, to change the oil pan gasket you need to un-do the left motor mount correct? I know my oil pan gasket is leaking, but at a very slow rate. I would love to change all those gaskets and change the motor mounts to solid ones. The vibration wouldn't bother me one bit.

What is the RB Thermo bypass pellet or the metric washer shim e-shaft pellet mod?

So since the FD oil coolers are differen't, they won't work with the 13B oil cooler setup? Is there any possbility of using the dual oil cooler setup?

I don't plan on doing any oil mods that involve having to disassemble the engine, so I don't think I'll be putting in the FD regulators.

Thanks for the heads-up about the small fans.

I already took out the A/C condenser, so that's not an issue.

I have done quite a few mods to the car already, and am working through it one system at a time. That's why I asked about the brake system, cooling system, and oil systems seperately. I have a list of parts made to purchase and what I am going to install on the car, so it's not like I don't keep the information for reference. I asked about what the differences where between the S4 and S5 were so that I could see if I wanted to swap any of the better S5 parts onto my S4. Also, it's aided me in deciding which series TII I want to purchase.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

Run a secondary oil cooler.....more oil and more cooling theres nothing sayin you can only run one oil cooler
thats what i plan on doin next summer

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA...spagenameZWDVW

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

The FD front and rear regulators can be swapped while the oilpan is off...both are accessible under the block. You can get them used for about 30 bucks, or new for under $100 I would say.