I am wondering what exactly I should do to the oil system to provide sufficient cooling and lubrication.

My engine will see 8500 rpm, possibly more but I don't want to say so. Its not a race motor and will be street driven as a daily driver

So what exactly should I get or modify?
Is the T2 Oil pump better?
Should I go with window bearings
large e-shaft jets?
Should I use window bearings in both stat gears or just one?
Should I get diff stat gears the S5 ones or no?


Post anything informative, thanks all.

Justin

 

Dry sump oiling system

Better than the N/A version, yes, but inferior to the FD pump... now if only the FD pump fit our endplate.
You could also fit an external pump driven from the crankshaft... but thats a little more work than most people like.


If you can afford them, sure.

Larger than stock... Definitely not.
The oil-jet "upgrade" does not make the jet size larger.... bigger does not always equal better.
It makes them smaller.
The most reasonable theory for doing this is that when you increase the oil pressure, you get more flow to the rotors... possibly, too much. Thus, you should restrict the jets to provide more flow to the bearings.
Mazda's been doing the mods for some time now... but its use is under some debate.
You really should only be doing this if you're using 110+ psi of oil pressure.
Best way to do this for a street car would be to TIG the stock jets closed, and then re-drill them out with a .220 nos jet drill, and keep the ball and spring.

Up to you.

If you're keeping the S5 stat gears, I'd leave the bearings alone. If you want to upgrade everything, go to the RX-8 stuff. Requires a few mods to install, but its the best stuff out there right now, and at $250 for front and rear stat gears with bearings, its also the most affordable.

But that being said... you're not building a race car.
8500 rpm peak... I would focus more on tolerances, pressure, total flow, and cooling than worrying about stat gears.

Really, it depends on your budget.
For a street car at 8500, I'd throw in a TII oil pump, FD rear OPR, and open up the bearing clearances to 0.004-0.006". Run some braided lines, throw in a oil pressure and oil temp gauge, and call it a day.

Above that, it gets expensive.
External pumps, dual non-FC oil coolers (the FC oil coolers are not as great as everyone parrots), loop lines...


A power goal would be helpful... but really, for any street car running those rpms, the TII pump, looser tolerances, and the bigger OPR is all you'll need.
OPR is $30.
Oil pump... depends where you get it.

 

I am shooting for 230 rwhp n/a. 2/3 bridge port. Will have a collected exhaust system and a TCI.

I was also going to go with an 85 psi OPR.
I have SS braided lines right now. No omp. only 2 stroke.

when you say open up the bearing clearance. What exactly do you mean? The oil groove?
also the same question about looser tolerances?


thanks.

 

TCI... dunno what that is. Makes me think of a compnay called TCI... IIRC, they build roll control systems and torque convertors.
Edit: yep, they sure do. http://www.tciauto.com/

I'd go with the FD OPR. Cheaper, higher pressure.

When I mean open it up, I mean make larger
When you clearance an engine, you measure the inner diameter of the bearing, and then measure the outer diameter of the ecentric shaft journal. Then, you subtract the numbers. This is your bearing clearance. Stock is something like 0.002".
By "opening it up" or going with looser tolerances, you increase this amount. This allows for a thicker film of oil to support the load. However, you also need to have sufficient oil pressure, and more importantly, sufficient oil flow to support larger bearing clearances.
To increases the clearance, you throw the rotor/gear in a lathe, and take out a couple mil, then finish with a oiled polishing paper.

 

Not really mods...but a great run down.

You have to register to view it ....but it is an outstanding write up.

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=47218

James

 

Why do you want a bridgeport on a daily driver?