Oil In Vaccum System
Oil In Vaccum System
I'm re-rebuilding my 90 T2. Noticed water leaking from between the rear iron and housing. It hasn't run right since the original rebuild. As I am disassembling, I'm noticing oil where there shouldn't be any, namely in the Vacuum system. Every vac line in the car has some oil in it. Any ideas on what the source of this oil could be? I know that the vac is generated in the irons from that big ole' banjo bolt on the front iron. Should I be looking for a crack somewhere? I also noticed a little oil seepage from the rear exhaust where the turbo manifold bolts up to the engine. If the turbo was blowing oil, could it blow oil back into the vacuum system>
Found a spun brng. The front iron is all chewed up where it looks like the chewed up bearing was eating itself up. Thinking that if the brng was completely out of the front gear, it was probably filling up the engine with oil.
Would a spun front stationary gear cause an excessive amount of oil in the rotor housings and vacuum system. When I pulled the engine apart, there was oil dripping from inside vacuum lines and the rotor housings. No crack or blown dowell O rings or anything. Is it possible for the OMP to pump too much oil, or should the restrictor on top the rotor housings slow down the flow. The bearing was frozen to the eccentric shaft so I was thinking that perhaps the rotors were no longer centered in the housing so the oil control rings couldn't do their job. I'm going to be replacing the front stationary gear and brng, e-shaft, front side housing.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
clean or replace the oil cooler also.
if the engine had catastrophic damage, it can be hard to say what went where. the metering pump, though, is your least likely suspect, it only puts out a few cc's (think drops) a minute.
if the engine had catastrophic damage, it can be hard to say what went where. the metering pump, though, is your least likely suspect, it only puts out a few cc's (think drops) a minute.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Oil in the vacuum system is fairly normal due to the PCV system and normal intake reversion. That does take quite a while to accumulate though so if this is a recently built engine the check turbo compressor as others have mentioned.
As for the spun bearing, that's bad. You're going to have to check every part of the rotating assembly as well as the irons for excessive wear caused by particles. In most cases the stationary gear will be ruined, as well as the eccentric. And all other bearings should be replaced.
What was the cause?
Does any of this look familiar?
Engine Damage!
If so then it may be because the spacer was allowed to drop during assembly.
Another common cause is the key on the oil pump falling out during assembly. Check the oil pump shaft for signs the sprocket was spinning on it.
As for the spun bearing, that's bad. You're going to have to check every part of the rotating assembly as well as the irons for excessive wear caused by particles. In most cases the stationary gear will be ruined, as well as the eccentric. And all other bearings should be replaced.
What was the cause?
Does any of this look familiar?
Engine Damage!
If so then it may be because the spacer was allowed to drop during assembly.
Another common cause is the key on the oil pump falling out during assembly. Check the oil pump shaft for signs the sprocket was spinning on it.
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as you can see from the pics, the damage isn't as bad as it could have been if I had actually been driving the car. When I first started up after the initial rebuild is went straight to 6500 RPM and died. Since then, it would start and warm, idle for a bit, and then die. Thinking that it spun the brng on that initial start. I noticed that on disassembly, not only was there oil in the vac system, but the rotor housing and rotors were coated in oil. Not even that much carbon fouling. I'm thinking that with the shaft sifted forward, the oil control rings weren't doing their job as well, plus a where it as losing the seal around the failed bearing.
Finally got all the parts on order. Decided to replace All the brngs in the engine as well as both stationary gears. Also replacing thrust plate and all the stuff on the front end of the E shaft, as well as the E shaft and front iron. None of the other housings or irons showed wear like in the picture above. Should have all the parts this week. 1500.00 later, it better work
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Finally got all the parts on order. Decided to replace All the brngs in the engine as well as both stationary gears. Also replacing thrust plate and all the stuff on the front end of the E shaft, as well as the E shaft and front iron. None of the other housings or irons showed wear like in the picture above. Should have all the parts this week. 1500.00 later, it better work
Also, don't forget to check end play. The spacer at the front (the infamous one that likes to drop, as mentioned) comes in different sizes to adjust end play.
These engines are 'easy' to build, in some respects, but miss out on some details and you're screwed. Seal clearances also come to mind.
These engines are 'easy' to build, in some respects, but miss out on some details and you're screwed. Seal clearances also come to mind.
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Aug 31, 2015 07:49 PM