Can the oil thermo unit be swapped between s4 n/a, and s4 turbo's? Do I have to take off the oil pan to get it out? Mine came cut on my jdm engine.

 

are you talking about the oil thermo pellet??? If you are no you don't have to take out the oil pan. If you go to teamfc3s.org they have a write up on it and seems simple enough. Also you may just want to purchase one of there otp because the stock ones have a tendency to go out.

 

it's attached to the side of the oil pan, I just got it out, now I need to know if I can use it with my 13bt instead of my 6port.

 

It goes to nothing since it was intended to be used for the Sub-Zero Start System, that in most likely hood been removed from your car long ago. So trim the wires and forget it.

 

so the oil thermo unit on the side of my oil pan, I don't need it? It doesnt' have and oil level sensor either, guess I don't need either huh?

Thanks, Tony

 

The oil temp switch in the pan is not needed. Also, the JDM engine does not have one, so if you took anything out of that pan it was the oil level sensor, which US engine's also have.

 

I'm not a picky person, BUT, it is called the Oil Thermo Unit (it's called that in the FSM). I admit though....it is a switch. (humor)

Keep the level sensor. I think it's held on with just three 10mm size bolts. Maybe put that unit on after you install the engine? So you don't break off the wires to it during handling and installation of the engine?

 

So I can switch my s4 na oil level sensor into my s4 13bt. The reason is the one in my jdm engine was cut, rather then splicing wires I'd rather just switch them out.

 

Yes. Switch them out. Buttttttttttt......check to see if they use the same connector. Even then, still SWITCH them out.

 

Always check the replacement works properly. A quick check witha DMM will tell you.

 

explain how you would go about doing this with a DMM

 

ohm test the resistance from the single wire to the casing.

yes the oil level switches are swappable between all second and third gens.

 

1, what should the range be?
2, single wire to the casing?

theres two wires for the oil level sensor. and than the white casing around it.

 

1) should only read a few ohms of resistance
2) there is 2 spots for pins in the connector but only one wire which grounds through the case to the oil pan to the block. connect one side of the DMM to the wire in the connector and the other to the aluminum case of the switch that bolts to the oil pan and you should get your continuity ohm reading then while working the sender up and down.