Synths leave ash
Dino juice leaves sludge
Wouldn't ash be bteer than sludge?

 

actually if you looked at some of the numbers in my last post in this thread, you'll see that all motor oils except the Redline have ash left when burned, and that the synthetics are generally lower in ash.

So, to make it more clear, good quality synthetics have less ash, less sludge, better flow when cold, and compatible burn temps.

But a standard quality oil like the Kendal or even the Valvoline (standard or synthetic) will have a higher ash content, more sludge and be 1000 times more harmful to your engine than a good quality oil such as the Castrol or better synths.

 

Nice info Icemark. Got any data regarding high temp performance and how well they hold their viscosity over time? This sort of data would be particularly usefull given the high temps found in a rotary and hard driven environments.

One thing I've noticed: Running 20W50 in colder temps, the engine sounds less happy @ startup & cold than with 10W30. (GTX) At the moment I'm running a 10W30 sythetic and the engine sounds happier still.

 

I picked 20W50 as it is the most popular for our cars, and factory recommended for temps above 20F.

Here is all the 10W30 info I have:
10W-30
AMSOIL...........................142 480 -70 <.5 ---
Castrol GTX.....................140 415 -33 .85 .12
Chevron Supreme...........150 401 -26 .96 .11
Exxon Superflo Hi Perf.....135 392 -22 .70 .11
Exxon Superflo Supreme 133 400 -31 .85 .13
Havoline Formula 3..........139 430 -30 1.0 ---
Kendall GT-1....................139 390 -25 1.0 .16
Mobil 1.............................160 450 -65 --- ---
Pennzoil PLZ Turbo..........140 410 -27 1.0 ---
Quaker State...................156 410 -30 .9 ---
Red Line..........................139 475 -40 --- ---
Shell Fire and Ice.............155 410 -35 .9 .12
Shell Super 2000.............155 410 -35 1.0 .13
Spectro Golden M.G.........175 405 -40 --- ---
Unocal Super...................153 428 -33 .92 .12
Valvoline All Climate.........130 410 -26 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo................135 410 -26 .99 .13
Valvoline Race..................130 410 -26 1.2 .20
Valvoline Synthetic..........140 450 -40 <1.5 .12

Again you see the better Synths just fine, while the cheaper and lower quality oils, just plain bad.

 

... ice is a frigggin' genius.

 

Please see following URL for real life comparsion of Dino vs. synthetic oil:

http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.htm

This independent test cofirmed dino and synthetic motor oils do not show any measureable difference in engine wear over 60K miles of testing.

Personally, I have always used store brand 10w30 stock Dino oil from auto parts retailers at approx. $1.00 per qt. in my 1988 RX7 SE non-turbo with 230K original miles (car bought new in 1988). According to Mazda dealer, original rotary engine pulls strong and compression is satisfactory at 7.5 for rear and 8.1 for front chamber. Car idles at 750 rpms with minimal engine vibration and it burns 1 qt. of oil every 700-800 miles.

Gordon

 

Nothing like bringing back a thread from the dead

 

I also end up fielding questions about what size lawn mower engine I have

 

Sheesh I can't believe this thing is still alive.