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Trying to figure out what the hell connection the "condensor" goes to - I have the actual sensor hooked up fine.
Searched like heck, I apparently can't find information as to the location of the proper connector to the condensor. Anything I can look for specifically to locate this? Just dropped a nice new rebuilt engine in the Rex, but I'm too afraid to drive it without a working oil pressure gauge.
The condensor is located on the front bolt of the clutch slave cylinder...but that's not your problem.
If your gauge is maxxing out, either there is a short in the wiring or the sending unit is shot.
Trying to figure out what the hell connection the "condensor" goes to - I have the actual sensor hooked up fine.
Searched like heck, I apparently can't find information as to the location of the proper connector to the condensor. Anything I can look for specifically to locate this? Just dropped a nice new rebuilt engine in the Rex, but I'm too afraid to drive it without a working oil pressure gauge.
The same thing happened to my 90 GXL a few months ago. I haven't fixed it yet , so not sure what caused it. I did search the archives and found that others have had the same problem. One person said that if the condenser goes bad then that can cause gauge to max out. He also said that would also cause your gauge to burn out. It is possible for a condenser (aka capacitor) to fail either open circuit or short circuit. If the condenser fails short circuit, than that woul cause the gauge to max out because the condenser is hooked up in parrallel to the sending unit. There are two condensers on the car, and the one for the oil gauge is attached to the clutch slave cylinder. The other is just to the rear of the battery. I originally thought that it may have been the sending unit, but after I disconnected the wire from sending unit the gauge was still maxed out which leads me to believe that it may be the condenser or a short in the wiring. So, I have bought a new Mazda gauge, sending unit and two condensers and am planning on installing them hopefully next weekend.
Like Clokker wrote: " If your gauge is maxxing out, either there is a short in the wiring or the sending unit is shot."
From my previous experience, it's most like a bad sending unit that's causing the gauge to max out. The gauge will operate without the condenser. If the sending has already shorted out and the has pegged, than most likely the gauge is toast too.
As Clokker wrote: " If your gauge is maxxing out, either there is a short in the wiring or the sending unit is shot."
Based on my personal experience, if the oil pressure gauge has pegged, than it's most likely a shorted sending unit. The gauge will operate without the condenser. Also, condensers are NLA from Mazda.
Sorry for the second redundant post, but my first post never appeared until I submitted this one.
Lol yea I know it's super old. Actually I've been reading quite a lot of old threads regarding this issue , but didn't want to start a new one before reading as much as possible.
My gauge is probably bad at this point. Because it sits way below 0 , almost gets to be in the boost gauge. But when I turn the key on , it goes all the way up almost to a vertical point.
I disconnected the wire from the sensor and nidle stays up, so for what I've read , it's gotta be a short somewhere bwbetwe the sensor and the gauge.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I read that , that wire goes straight from A to B , doesn't share anything with any other wire.
I'm not sure what's the most common mode of capacitor failure, but capacitors can fail due to either low capacitance, open circuit or short circuit. Before jumping to any conclusions, I would recommend temporarily disconnecting the capacitor to check if it's short circuited causing your gauge to peg. If not, than it's most likely a short in the wiring.
You asked: " Correct me if I'm wrong but I read that , that wire goes straight from A to B , doesn't share anything with any other wire."
Correct. The wire for the oil pressure gauge goes from the sending unit to the gauge, but the capacitor also branches off that same wire with the other end going to ground. The other side of the gauge is power supply. The capacitor is open circuit to DC current. So, as I mentioned earlier, If the capacitor has shorted than it would cause your gauge to peg.
Oh ok. The only condenser that I see around where it's supposed to be , it's bolted on the coils bracket. Everyone says it's at the clutch cylinder.
this one has a thicker wire so I'm not sure if it's the one or if that condenser it's for something else.
I unplugged it as well just to see if there would be any movement with the gauge but there wasn't .
The stock setup consists of two condensers. The other condenser, for the oil pressure gauge, is bolted to the clutch slave cylinder. If it's still there, than just unbolt it and make sure the metal part doesn't ground out.
There's only that one condenser pictured above.
Then there's this one connector by , but its different than the one that is connected to the one condenser.
and the slave cylinder looks like they snapped the studs, unless it's welded.
Are the wires to the condensers supposed to be the same color as the wire going to the sensor? Yellow with red stripe.
I think you're looking in the wrong spot. The clutch slave cylinder is mounted to the bell-housing with two bolts. Look to the rear of the oil filter and you should see it. Here's a photo https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/8...44-41-920.html The condenser is attached to one of these bolts.
So I went to look at the slave and couldn't really see much cause there's this big *** hose right above it that even pushing it to the side barely clears space .
But seems like previous owner either replaced the condenser or something cause as you can see in that pic , the wire has tape where they joint the connector end to the condenser wire.
I unplugged it and went to turn the key on switch and the gauge didn't move.
Oh, I thought you said that your gauge was pegged. Yeah, that gauge looks like it's effed up. That needle shouldn't sitting way down there. The needle should be sitting at zero.
Ok, so maybe you condenser failed by short circuiting the system. These condensers are NLA from Mazda. However, you really don't need a condenser for the oil pressure gauge. It will function without one. I've ran mine for years without a condenser. Condensers might still be available for the FD, but the electrical connector is different from the FC. Not sure if a replacement oil pressure gauge is still available from Mazda. Might be easier just to buy a used instrument cluster. Also, I would replace the sending just to play it safe.
Yeah that's what I was thinking, replacing the unit anyway.
i let the engine warm up and then gave it a rev about 4k and saw the needle move just a bit.
I read in another thread that someone said to "reset" the needed by pulling it out and set it at zero , but readings would probably not be accurate.
Probably a used cluster would be your best bet. You might want to check with Catalina Auto Recycling (Catalina Auto Recycling) on a used cluster. Alternatively, check this boards for sale section and/or Ebay.
Oh I thought the oil press and boost were separate gaauges , at least that's what I thought I had read.
Yeah, I'll see if I can find a used cluster. But if not I'll just add some basic 52mm gauges , oil press, oil temp and water temp. Maybe even add a boost gauge cause maybe this one doesn't work either lol.
04-12-09, 11:48 PM
