2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

oil pressure at idle, also leaking coolant

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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 08:00 AM
  #1  
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From: Central Iowa
oil pressure at idle, also leaking coolant

I took my '87 TII out for a test drive last night (as it had sat for a month while ********* screwed around not sending me parts, they still haven't, 13b4me and mazdaenthused, so I had to put some emissions crap back on and order a second downpipe to get it running). When I stopped the car I noticed the oil pressure didn't drop, it was holding around 70 (psi? I forget atm...), and I'm quite sure it shouldn't be above ~35 at idle. Any comments? How might I fix this and what might be wrong?

Additionally, I seem to be leaking fairly large amounts of coolant and it seems to be mostly after I shut it down and let it sit. I just reinstalled my turbo and I thought maybe I was leaking around it, so I pulled it again and tightened the banjo bolts and I noticed a leaking rad hose at my fill neck so I put a screw clamp over that one joint. I just pushed the car backward so I could see the whole leak spot, and if you draw a line through the car lengthwise where across the crank angle sensor, the leak is dripping from somewhere along that line. So it's not on the passenger side. I couldn't see any coolant left on the front cover and I don't think it's the radiator. I'll put it on jacks within a couple days to get a better look. Also, I ran the car a minute or two this morning with the fill cap off to check for bubbles and there were absolutely no bubbles, so I'm leaning away from a coolant seal.
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 10:01 AM
  #2  
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From: chatsworth,Ca.
it could be the water pump(the bearing drain is directly at the bottom of the water pump), ir the gasket between the waterpump housing and the engine block..
thx for the feedback, im glad you got her running!
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 10:51 AM
  #3  
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well like I said I couldn't see any coolant down the front cover, but maybe it could have evaporated since last night. I'll just have to check again when I have more time. I hate having it down again after finally getting it running. I just hope it isn't a coolant seal, I would like to do the rebuild on MY schedule.

I went to a dual alt belt pulley while it was down because I pulled the air pump, could that have struck the final blow the water pump needed to die? I don't think I made the belts that tight...
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 05:23 PM
  #4  
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From: chatsworth,Ca.
the waterpump seal might have dried up , sometimes it happens when your cooling system is empty for extended amount of time
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Old Sep 25, 2007 | 01:09 PM
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From: Central Iowa
it didn't sit empty more than a day, at least not while I've had it. I think I've fixed the coolant leak, I got some coolant dye and sourced the leak and made quick work of it. I'll just keep my eye on the coolant level for a week, it should be fixed. I initially discovered the problem because my coolant buzzer came on when I tried to start it, which was really weird because I thought I had tested my coolant sensor and it didn't work, but maybe I didn't have the ignition on when I tested it, which makes all the difference.

I still haven't figured out the oil pressure problem, but I'm going to drain some of the oil and see if it was just overfilled. anyone else have your gauge read really high before? It's basically maxed out, as I just read in another thread that the max is 73psi.
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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From: Central Iowa
I think both these issues are fixed now. It seems my oil pressure is just reluctant to come down after revving at all, but it comes down to about 40psi now.

However, I have a new problem. I had a pretty bad clutch fluid blowout this morning. Much of the fluid seemed to leave the car soon after it was parked for a couple hours as there was a large puddle under the car when I left. I brought it home and bled the clutch line, which was pretty dirty, and at that point the reservoir was empty. Now the clutch works better than ever, even reverse doesn't fight me like it used to, I'd have to put it in 3rd to spin the synchro before sticking it in reverse and now I don't have to. I'm concerned that I may still be leaking clutch fluid though. Obviously I'll keep an eye on it, but I'm not sure where it could be leaking from. There were no signs of leakage from around the bleeder valve nor anywhere under the reservoir, so I'm kind of at a loss... My next step would be put it up on stands and see what other lines I'm missing, but if you guys could point me in the right direction that'd be great.
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