Oil pressure gauge problem....
05-18-03, 12:11 AM
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Oil pressure gauge problem....
Okay i just got my new rebuild just started up, didn't even have to tow start it.
I am using a new (well used from another motor) rear side housing it was it better condition thatn my currnent one.
got it started and my oil pressure guage read above 110 psi all the time, then i installed the sender that was on my previous side housing and the needle fell like 2 cm below the 0 on the cluster gauge, and when I drive around it reads 0 psi at idle and 30-40 psi during cruze, the car runs fine and does not smoke, it almost like the gauge itself is reading 0 psi way under what it should be...wtf how can i fix this, i'll take picks tommorrow of the problem...
I am using a new (well used from another motor) rear side housing it was it better condition thatn my currnent one.
got it started and my oil pressure guage read above 110 psi all the time, then i installed the sender that was on my previous side housing and the needle fell like 2 cm below the 0 on the cluster gauge, and when I drive around it reads 0 psi at idle and 30-40 psi during cruze, the car runs fine and does not smoke, it almost like the gauge itself is reading 0 psi way under what it should be...wtf how can i fix this, i'll take picks tommorrow of the problem...
Last edited by BlackRx7; 05-18-03 at 12:29 AM.
05-18-03, 03:13 AM
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I'm having the same issue post-installation of a new motor and have heard about this resistor somewhere on the tranny/bellhousing..what the heck does it look like? Anywhere in the factory service manual I can find further info to clue me in as I've got a dead oil pressure gauge despite a new sender and it worked fine before my previous motor tanked.
Mark or anyone else your help is much appreciated.
Cheers,
Mick.
Mark or anyone else your help is much appreciated.
Cheers,
Mick.
05-18-03, 11:17 AM
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I had similar problems with my new rebuild, I used new sender, etc ...
What I found via FSM and local mechanics ...
1) By grounding the wire to the sender, with the ign switch turned on, gage should max out (be carefull you can burn out the gage). if the gage doesn't then you got a bad gage, or bad wiring.
--- if your gage only goes part the way, then you will need to go into gage cluster an gently move needle to rest at zero, then try above test to see if will max out.
2) The condenser I suspect is there to protect your gage from spikes or prolonged power ... I am not sure, but I do know that it will work without it, but don't recommend.
In my case, I had bad wiring which burned out my gage.
I replaced the gage, replaced the wire going to the sender and left the condenser out ... have yet to put this back into the loop, but plan too. OH, I also had to move the needle a hair to get to zero.
I am not sure how accurate these gages are ... but at lease will give me an indication of oil pressure as opposed to non pressure.
Hope this helps,
Ken
What I found via FSM and local mechanics ...
1) By grounding the wire to the sender, with the ign switch turned on, gage should max out (be carefull you can burn out the gage). if the gage doesn't then you got a bad gage, or bad wiring.
--- if your gage only goes part the way, then you will need to go into gage cluster an gently move needle to rest at zero, then try above test to see if will max out.
2) The condenser I suspect is there to protect your gage from spikes or prolonged power ... I am not sure, but I do know that it will work without it, but don't recommend.
In my case, I had bad wiring which burned out my gage.
I replaced the gage, replaced the wire going to the sender and left the condenser out ... have yet to put this back into the loop, but plan too. OH, I also had to move the needle a hair to get to zero.
I am not sure how accurate these gages are ... but at lease will give me an indication of oil pressure as opposed to non pressure.
Hope this helps,
Ken
05-18-03, 11:23 AM
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The condenser is small black box appx 1" x 3/4" maybe
1/4" thick ... IIRC has a wire appx 6" long with white plug ... mine S5 was found almost under oil filer attached to the fastner for the metal access door to transmission.
1/4" thick ... IIRC has a wire appx 6" long with white plug ... mine S5 was found almost under oil filer attached to the fastner for the metal access door to transmission.
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05-18-03, 11:26 AM
#8
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
without the condensor the sender will fail to provide an correct reading (and eventually fail).
The condensor is sometimes forgotten to be plugged back in when doing a tranny swap or engine swap. It is a small black box with a single wire coming out of it. It is maybe 1/4" think and 3/4" square and has a single mounting tab on it.
It mounts on the tranny housing near the clutch slave (or often when the engine or tranny has been out or swapped before to the actuall clutch slave).
The condensor is sometimes forgotten to be plugged back in when doing a tranny swap or engine swap. It is a small black box with a single wire coming out of it. It is maybe 1/4" think and 3/4" square and has a single mounting tab on it.
It mounts on the tranny housing near the clutch slave (or often when the engine or tranny has been out or swapped before to the actuall clutch slave).
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