Slow Rotor

Hey guys, I was doing a search on finding out what was wrong with my oil pressure gauge and found this quote

Check the Connection to the Oil pressure Sender..Also,There IS a Condensor.it is a Black Square like thing with an O end on it,that a bolt would normally Go through.IF it is on there,it would be hooked up at the clutch slave cylinder,one one of the mounting bolts,and then go to Ground..it's Function is to Provide the Sender with a Smooth ground,with no Fluctuation.IF it is off,you either Get No Oil Sender reading,Or the Pressure will read Off the gauge(like pegged).
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And since the mechanic reinstalled my engine the oil pressure gauge no longer works. I believe i found the Condensor, and it wasn't connected to anything but there was a connector on the wire going to the connector that was melted. I have removed the connector and just spliced in a piece of wire and I haven't gotten under the car yet but have connected it to another earth and the gauge doesn't move. Is hooking it up to the slave cylinder really going to make a difference or should i search elsewhere?

AmviciousRav

iTrader: (5)

you kno I got the same problem too, is the black ground thingy supposed to be under the slave or on top? (Mine is on top and my oil guage stopped working suddenly damn it!!)

Slow Rotor

Im not sure where it is supposed to set. I know it says its ment for a Smooth ground but i was thinking the gauge should at least move a lil if i earthed it out somewhere else

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The gauge will work just fine without the condenser...I'd bet that 50% of the RXs either have that condenser flopping around unconnected or missing altogether.
The condenser smooths the response of the needle- in theory- but the gauge itself seems pretty heavily dampened, certainly in comparison to an aftermarket unit.

If you have one intact, it should just mount on one of the slave cylinder bolts, under the head of the bolt and above the mounting flange (although I suspect that any ground point would work just as well).

Slow Rotor...you have another problem with that circuit.
Since you have a melted wire I'd peel back that part of the loom and see what's happened.

Slow Rotor

Yeah i had a quick look at the loom, it seems intact. I'll see if i can get the car up on ramps sometime this week and have a look. Is there a fuse at all that could affect it?

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

No the oil pressure gauge circuit isn't fused. I don't have the condenser and my oil pressure gauge worked great. I had it pegged once and it turned out to be a worn out sending unit. Crimped/stressed/loose gauge cluster connector (any one) will also give you false readings but it will be in pairs of gauges.

Slow Rotor

Yeah i know, i got a spare dash as well that was in it, and it didn't work on it either. The oil pressure gauge worked before the mechanic had the engine out and now it doesn't so I'm trying to work out what they missed

HAILERS

The FSM, Body Electrical section shows how to check out the oil gauge.

Slow Rotor

Yeah i read it, didn't really help me

HAILERS

YOu put a resistor on the end of the oil pressure senders wire and the other end of that resistor to gnd and nothing happened? ODD. Open circuit from sender to gauge.

HAILERS

Yeah, it's fused. It's called the METER fuse. Jeeez.

IF you gnd the senders output wire, the gauge should peak out. So you don't do that more than a second or two to see if the needle moves. NO longer or you'll screw the gauge up. It'll read later in life but with no accuracy.

If you ground the condensers wire for any length of time, you peg the gauge and ruin it completly. That wire does not go straight to gnd. It goes to a condenser first.

If the fuse was blown, the other gauges would not work.