Anyone have this installed in thier car? If so, how's it working for you and how did you install it? Is it worth the money? Can you provide pics of it installed?

 

where'd you find that thing?

 

??!!! WHAT THE !%@#%!??? so what're those things?

 

I believe there was a thread recently where someone posted a write up on how he installed one of those MOP adapters
do a search

 

They're adapters to change the OMP to inject 2cycle oil instead of crankcase oil. In my opinion useless, mixing 2cycle with the fuel is far more efficient.

 

I'll be running it on my car, but I don't know anyone who already does.

 

I have been pondering how to make one of those. Where did you find that? I'll be the guinny pig

 

Rotary Aviation.

 

I've been running one in my '85 GSL (12A) for almost two years now. No regrets at all. The cost was $76U.S. for the one used with the 12A, about $10 more for the '86-'88 13B and $95-ish for the '89 and up 13Bs, which have an electric omp.

You'll need to supply your own reservior (one that's impervious to oil. This rules out washer fluid reserviors-- go with a power steering fluid reservior instead), a length of neoprene fuel hose (again, impervious to oil), a brass 90-degree elbow with an external diameter that fits inside the fuel hose and some hose clamps.

If your engine is a 13B the necessary o-ring is included with the adapter, but the 12A uses a gasket that does not come with the adapter. You'll need two of these at around $3 each from Mazda. Also, the adapters are shipped with two longer-than stock mounting bolts to accomodate the approximately 1" thick adapter.

This is a gravity-fed system so you'll need to mount the reservior so that the lowest level of oil in it is at least 6" above the omp.

There is only one caveat that I've noted so far: If your omp is leaking, it will leak twice as bad once you install the adapter and are feeding 2-cycle oil into it. Apparently 2-cycle oil will seep into smaller areas easier than 4-cycle oil will. This is good for apex seals but not so good for an already-leaking omp.
I replaced the seals in my omp using standard neoprene o-rings only to find that the leaks returned within two weeks. The second time around I used Viton o-rings and they've held up very well with no more omp oil leaks.

BTW, oil consumption is about 1/4 liter per 12 imperial gallon tank of fuel, which seems to be slightly more than necessary.

 

I thought the omp uses the oil pressure of the system to push oil through the lines. The omp itself isn't even a pump, its just a 'distributer' of sorts for allowing certain amounts of oil into the lines.

So with this adapter, does it actually pump the oil, or does gravity itself push the 2stroke through the adapter?

 

The metering oil pump is actually a pump, with a very tiny piston on a little crankshaft. Seriously. So gravity brings the 2 stroke oil to the pump, which pushes it up to the oil dribblers.

 

Yup. Without the adapter there is enough pressure to get the oil to the pump where it can be pumped at a specific rate to the engine. The gravity feed used with the adapter system replaces the engine oil pressure that was used with the stock setup but is no longer available.

When you first install this unit and run the engine you'll notice that it takes about five minutes or so for the nylon oil lines to fill with green 2-cycle oil from the reservior. While this is happening you'll need to be dribbling cap-fulls of 2-cycle oil into the primaries at one-minute intervals until the lines are completely full.

One of the benefits of pre-mixing (or this system) over the stock set-up rarely gets mentioned in these threads. The 2-cycle oil adheres to metal surfaces better than 4-stroke oil does. It actually seeps into the pores of the metal, providing lubrication for a while after the oil supply runs dry, should that ever happen to you.

One of the guys using the rotary in his airplane forgot to add oil to his fuel just before a cross-country flight, flew for four hours at ~5500 rpm and then landed to refuel. It was then that he realized his mistake when he noticed that the cap on his oil container, which should have been cracked open at the previous fill-up, wasn't. The engine ran just fine and showed no signs of overheating or other stress during this trip or after.

 

I'm curious. I have the adaptor kit but it says do not disconnect the lines on the omp. Well what makes the omp stop drawing crankcase oil and start pumping the 2 stroke. Does the adaptor act as a blockoff plate or what?

 

ummm do the omp lines adapt to the adapter??

 

I believe it goes inbewteen the engine and stock oil pump felix

 

ah, i wish somone had more pics of these things, damm, i would LOVE to have a oil tank under the hood, insteade of mixing fuel, would make life soooo much easier

 

im going to buy it once i get money and once i figure out how/where to mount a resivoir. i also need to figure out how to hookup a low oil warning system. i was thinking of wiring another oil level sender in the tank, but i need to figure out if i can wire it inline of the oil pan sender, that way if the oil buzzer goes off, i know its time for a fill up of one of the two pans.

 

You can also modify the omp. It was written up awhile back, but the pictures were a bit blurry. It can be found here: https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/diy-2-stroke-mop-write-up-pics-372329/ I think I've come up with a better way than making that nasty gasket. If you lathe a piece of aluminum to press fit into the oil line coming in, it will be unnecessary to block it off. Then you can drill and tap the nipple into the omp and continue as shown. I'll be doing it in the next week or so. I'll try to take some pics during.

Greg

 

eh, im thinking the subzero starting fluid tank

 

Rotary Aviation's website doesn't list one for the s5. Does such a thing exist? Will the 3rd Gen adapter work? I'd love to have one.

And Felix, you're avatar needs to read "my car and I"

 

hahahha, i fail at Spelling and grammer

 

or just have a properly functioning omp

 

from what ive heard and read that tank will probably corode and leak after having oil in it for a while. need a tank that is resistant to oil corrosion.

 

damm, i just read that on the write up too, hummmmmm, hummm, ill figure somthing out, im gonna try tap out a omp tommarow

 

i thought you parted out your fc? or is that your new one in your sig?