oil metering lines instal[need some help]
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From: olympia,wash
oil metering lines instal[need some help]
well,i'm in the midst of putting my engine back together,and i'm a bit confused with the oil metering lines[got all new parts...pump/lines/injectors
].they are all colorcoded[from mazdatrix],but there seems to be no way to get them on there the way my manual tells me to.. as far as the colors go.and,if you have ever changed ur lines,it seems pretty hard to put'em on wrong.[exept for 1 spot]still,i'm hoping somebody can confirm how they are supposed to go.
here is how haynes shows it:
looking at metering pump:
white blue
yelow green
is does not say wich color goes to what injector,but the abouve would be a diagram of the 4 bolts on the oil metering pump
here is how mine worked out:
manifold front[blue] block front [white]
manifold rear [green] block rear [yellow]
i hope this makes sense.it would be possible to reverse the top 2 lines[wich would render them correct according to the manual],but the lines fit MUCH better this way.the bottom 2 seems inpossible to reverse,and i am quite positive all the lines are hooked up to the right injectors.if someone could give me some feedback,it would be much appriciated!!!thanks.
david
].they are all colorcoded[from mazdatrix],but there seems to be no way to get them on there the way my manual tells me to.. as far as the colors go.and,if you have ever changed ur lines,it seems pretty hard to put'em on wrong.[exept for 1 spot]still,i'm hoping somebody can confirm how they are supposed to go.here is how haynes shows it:
looking at metering pump:
white blue
yelow green
is does not say wich color goes to what injector,but the abouve would be a diagram of the 4 bolts on the oil metering pump
here is how mine worked out:
manifold front[blue] block front [white]
manifold rear [green] block rear [yellow]
i hope this makes sense.it would be possible to reverse the top 2 lines[wich would render them correct according to the manual],but the lines fit MUCH better this way.the bottom 2 seems inpossible to reverse,and i am quite positive all the lines are hooked up to the right injectors.if someone could give me some feedback,it would be much appriciated!!!thanks.
david
Last edited by wankelhead; Jan 4, 2002 at 06:57 PM.
Dont worry about the colors. The metering lines are pre-formed to fit in their particular place. If you start placing them on the motor, they will all fit into the pump in a logical order.
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From: olympia,wash
hmm..thanks.can you really screw things up if they are hooked up wrong?not worried about the bottom 2,but the top 2 could be different...[ i doubt it...but].i guess just wanted to see if any1 else knew if i had'em right
-david
-david
They really do drop into place. I bought mine new from the dealer and screwed up the installation. Took them all apart and just really let them fall into place. Wrok perfect and better yet, fit perfect. Did you get new copper washers? That was the tough part. Or you can fry them and then anneal them in cold water. I guess doing that you can use them once.
Ralf
Ralf
There are four holes on the oil metering pump. The most forward two(one on top, one on bottom) go to the oil injectors that are mounted in the rotor housings. The rear two go to the oil injectors in the intake manifold. Its written in the free online factory service manual. Frankly speaking, with the exception of will they reach or not, I don't think it matters as long as you have a oil metering pump line going to each injector.
Last edited by HAILERS; Jan 5, 2002 at 07:22 AM.
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Hey Dude,
Get those lines on? I'm starting to think I may have fried an apex seal because the engine fire melted those lines, and I didn't shut the motor down in time.
Makes a good case for pre-mix. How do you know your OMP/system is bad until you toast an apex seal?
Gregg
Get those lines on? I'm starting to think I may have fried an apex seal because the engine fire melted those lines, and I didn't shut the motor down in time.
Makes a good case for pre-mix. How do you know your OMP/system is bad until you toast an apex seal?
Gregg
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From: olympia,wash
Originally posted by Shamrock1054
I'm starting to think I may have fried an apex seal because the engine fire melted those lines, and I didn't shut the motor down in time.
i'm sure you would not damage a apex seal in such a short amount of time,if your talking about a couple of minute's
How do you know your OMP/system is bad until you toast an apex seal?
Gregg [/B]
I'm starting to think I may have fried an apex seal because the engine fire melted those lines, and I didn't shut the motor down in time.
i'm sure you would not damage a apex seal in such a short amount of time,if your talking about a couple of minute's
How do you know your OMP/system is bad until you toast an apex seal?
Gregg [/B]
Last edited by wankelhead; Jan 5, 2002 at 11:55 PM.
I had a problem with my electric OMP on a '90 NA. The electronic sensor went. When it did, the engine would cut out a rpm's above 3000. The OMP failure showed up on acouple of the ECU error codes. Not sure what you do short of disconnecting the oil lines on the mechanical OMP's.
Hey Wankelhead,
Yeah, I know how to check OMP function if you think there's a problem with the system. What I meant was, if you're in the middle of a 600 mile trek in the middle of BFE and your OMP fails, how do you know until your car starts accelerating like grandma's 65 VW starting from stop in 3rd gear? Are there any warning signs before you trash your motor?
Gregg
Yeah, I know how to check OMP function if you think there's a problem with the system. What I meant was, if you're in the middle of a 600 mile trek in the middle of BFE and your OMP fails, how do you know until your car starts accelerating like grandma's 65 VW starting from stop in 3rd gear? Are there any warning signs before you trash your motor?
Gregg
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From: olympia,wash
sorry-i dont know...i dont think there really would be any way...i guess you would loose some compression,and therefor power.but,luckily,the omp's are very reliable[especially the 86-88 ones].
-d
-d
Wonder how long the motor would survive if oil injection was stopped. I drove mine maybe 3-4 minutes to get out of traffic. Funny thing, first thing I suspected as the cause of the fire was the PD, but when I pressurized the fuel system with the intake off, everything was dry!
Gregg
Gregg
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