incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

So, I know my oil pan gasket needs to be replaced. I'd also like to change out the crush washers on my oil cooler as they look like they're leaking as well.


So how do I go about doing this? Do I need to drop the engine to replace the oil pan gasket? I searched, but found nothing specific. There's that engine mount right underneath the pan. I'm just wondering if you can take that out safely without the engine dropping or not.


Also, for the oil cooler lines, is there a way to remove them without damaging them? I only found what was in the archive + the lines were damaged when removed.


Currently my car is sitting with the radiator, fan, shroud + ac radiator out so I'm cleaning out the engine bay + fixing some small things.


Thanks for the help.

311unity13B

you dont have to take the engine out, just find some way to support it from the top before you take it off. such as the pic below. you can make it out of plywood. or even get a chain and/or strong rope and support it from a tree or bar in the garage. When you get all the bolts out to get the pan off without making a huge mess or bending the pan or damaging the mating surface on the block, I usually leave one or 2 just barely loose and then tap it with a plastic dead blow hammer. But, make sure you use a wire wheel and get all the old RTV sealer off the pan and the block. Make sure both surfaces are clean and dry as possible. cant use too much brake cleaner. Then re-apply the RTV sealer TO THE PAN in a constant bead with the same diameter all around. Then go in the criss-cross method to tighten the bolts, a little here, a little there until they are all tight. I need to do this to mine, but I am a lazy ****.

But as for the oil cooler lines, i do not know.

RETed

The engine needs to be lifted slightly to do this with any sort of ease.
It's going to be rather difficult if you can't do this.
Hardest part is getting to the bolts that are along the front edge of the oil pan, since the engine cradle crossmember sits right under that.
If you can live with the small oil leaks, I wouldn't redo this.
It is very hard to get a 100% seal with the oil pan.

As for the oil cooler lines, if they are original, I'd highly recommend to replace them.
To do this properly, you really need to remove the oil cooler from the car / chassis.
Trying to undo the fittings with the oil cooler still bolted in will usually break the rubber mounts or the small fasteners holding everything in.


-Ted

hungery4rice

iTrader: (7)

take the swaybar off to get to the front oil pan bolts.

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

Ah, thanks Ted + everyone.

I can't really afford the $200+ for new lines, so I'll have to do that one later.

I'll see if my buddy has an engine hoist to lift the engine. I plan on using liberal amounts of permatex ultra grey with the new gasket after cleaning the **** out of everything.

311unity13B

anything that shows it can be used on oil pans on the bottle is fine

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You don't need a hoist or anything like that. Just place a floor jack on the transmission bellhousing and put a bit of tension onto the engine.

The oil pan is a straightforward job but a pain because you are on your back and have to deal with the 25+ bolts that hold it in place.

Both the FSM and Haynes manual have removal/installation procedures.

The Factory Service Manual can be found in the FAQ For FC thread. It contains all this information and more, and is an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.

Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.

These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download.

To prevent it from leaking in the future, I've always found the best way to install it is to use the factory gasket. Coat each side with a bit of sealant but make absolutely sure the mating surfaces are clean first. Replace the bolts with new ones a little longer and use 1/4" washers to spread the load.

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

Awesome. Thanks Aaron. I should have looked in my haynes manual

311unity13B

using the 1/4" washers is a good idea, i shall do this when I reseal my own pan