oil in the gas tank (question)
02-02-06, 08:12 PM
#1
Sleeper but still slow
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oil in the gas tank (question)
Ok I've heard that a little bit of high grade oil mixed in with the gas in the gas tank can make a rotary engine run smoother. This makes sense because of the oil injectors lube the rotars and it will help in the gas tank. However, I want to know somehting. Will this harm the Turbo II rx7? I know that impurities in gas can dammage turbo blades and spindles so you must use high octane, and I want to make sure a little bit of oil won't hurt my trubo in any way. I know the rotars will spin smoothly but will the turbo? If this sounds like a dumb question, please don't flame because I'm no chemist or engine expert, this Rx-7 is my first car and I got it a couple of days ago. I'm 16 and VERY unexperienced so I need help. Thank you.
02-02-06, 08:45 PM
#2
Some people do it. But mostly those that have removed the Metering Oil Pump. They use 2 stroke oil (TCW-3), called "Premix" on the forums, generally on a 1oz to 1gal ratio. Premixing will not hurt your turbo, but I would not premix if your MOP is still on the car and working.
02-02-06, 08:53 PM
#3
Sleeper but still slow
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thanks I just bought it with 94k miles and the previous owner babied it, I want to continue it living till at least 170k miles. So I was wondering if this would help. Thank you.
02-03-06, 07:50 AM
#4
I add 4 oz. of two-stroke oil to each fillup even though my MOP is still installed for two reasons. One, I track the car and a little bit more oil in the combustion chambers will help to cool/lubricate things when stressing the engine at essentially continuous high rpm. Two, the engine doesn't appear to use as much oil as I would expect, so adding a bit of two-stroke oil to the gas is an insurance thing in case there is a problem with the MOP.
I haven't had the car long enough to confirm or negate a problem with the MOP. Maybe I'll get brave and pull some of the oil lines to test. In which case I will plan on replacing the fragile lines.
I haven't had the car long enough to confirm or negate a problem with the MOP. Maybe I'll get brave and pull some of the oil lines to test. In which case I will plan on replacing the fragile lines.
02-03-06, 09:12 AM
#5
Originally Posted by White87FC
but I would not premix if your MOP is still on the car and working.
02-08-06, 04:18 PM
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S5 TII
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I removed my OMP during this rebuild.. And Im wondering exactly how much I need to premix? Is it 1oz of Oil for ever 1 gallon of gas? I'm looking into this highly recommended 2-stroke (amsoil) that recommends 2.6oz/gallon for motorcycles, ATVs, boats, etc... I dont know if thats excessive for rotary engines or not.
If anyone knows, please post up. Thanks.
[EDIT] YES, I searched. I just want to quadruple check and make completely 120% sure that this is right, since I will have NO OMP once the engine is running again.
If anyone knows, please post up. Thanks.
[EDIT] YES, I searched. I just want to quadruple check and make completely 120% sure that this is right, since I will have NO OMP once the engine is running again.
Last edited by RyoFC3S; 02-08-06 at 04:22 PM.
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02-08-06, 07:39 PM
#8
Engine, Not Motor
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Theres a decent discussion in the Archives that covers the pros and cons of going premix. Some will say it's the best way, but my opinion is that Mazda's original setup is best for daily drivers. There's no real specific harm that you can do premixing unless you run the ratio too lean or use the wrong oil.
02-08-06, 11:19 PM
#10
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by '87 trubo FC
I know that impurities in gas can dammage turbo blades and spindles so you must use high octane,
And the FC was designed to run 87 Octane. Using anything else on a un-modfied FC is a waste of money.
Octane is the ability of the fuel to resist burning prematurly. Higher the number, harder to burn. It has nothing to do with amount of energy, quality, purity, or anything else related to those three.
Simply put: The octane rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites.
You need to read this:
http://science.howstuffworks.com/gasoline3.htm
and this:
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/autos/octane.htm
02-09-06, 04:26 PM
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Sleeper but still slow
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Originally Posted by Icemark
Gas purity has nothing to do with octane.
And the FC was designed to run 87 Octane. Using anything else on a un-modfied FC is a waste of money.
Octane is the ability of the fuel to resist burning prematurly. Higher the number, harder to burn. It has nothing to do with amount of energy, quality, purity, or anything else related to those three.
Simply put: The octane rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites.
You need to read this:
http://science.howstuffworks.com/gasoline3.htm
and this:
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/autos/octane.htm
And the FC was designed to run 87 Octane. Using anything else on a un-modfied FC is a waste of money.
Octane is the ability of the fuel to resist burning prematurly. Higher the number, harder to burn. It has nothing to do with amount of energy, quality, purity, or anything else related to those three.
Simply put: The octane rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites.
You need to read this:
http://science.howstuffworks.com/gasoline3.htm
and this:
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/autos/octane.htm
02-09-06, 06:37 PM
#12
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by '87 trubo FC
it was the first time Initial D has lied to me! I considered it a reliable source, maybe it was messedup in translation.
Entertainment such as movies and cartoons are seldom accurate science.
02-10-06, 11:58 PM
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vac leak
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im sure it'll just smell more like crap than before......until u run out of gas....my question is...whats the result of not premixing in a car thats got the OMP disabled?
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