Which oil filters do you guys use?
Information Regurgitator
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 208
From: Sparta TN. United States
Purolator Pure-One most of the time.I used a Mobil-1 once and really liked it but they are so exspensive that I'll probably stay with the Pure one.I think the only real difference in the two is the Mobil-1 flows a little better.
Rotary Freak
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 0
From: Hampton Roads, VA
Purolator
I like the one for early RX's (3,4,5), I think it's L20073. Holds about a quart, nice and big. Has the built-in bypass valve, too, which is important for cold startup. I had started a little empirical research myself about this, but ran out of time before I had to move up here. I DON'T like Fram for their crappy construstion, but, unfortunately, it's all they carry on base, and parts are expen$ive out in town.
While the stock-size Purolator is available in Pure One, as I said, I like the larger L20073. You can use just about any 20x1.50 threaded filter, though, on a 2nd gen, especially the NA's. One large filter that Purolator does in Pure One, fits a (NO!!!) Honda/Acura. Just don't let anyone look too closely at your filter. Do like the Rolling Stones and "paint it black" or something. That would kinda screw up the nice pretty metallic blue finish on it, though.
Just a little FYI, I talked to an engineer for Purolator, and he said that if the factory filter comes with a relief/bypass valve (original S4 filters did, not sure about original S5, but none of the factory ones do now), you should use a replacement filter with such a valve. If not, you run the serious risk of engine damage due to lack of lubrication at startup, especially on cold mornings.
Some people like to use filters that eliminate the bypass valve, to ensure the oil is always filtered. This works ok for race engines, which don't see extremely cold conditions on a regular basis, but can cause starvation problems in daily drivers, due to the relatively high viscosity of the oil when it's cold. This is not to say that all filters should have a bypass, because some engines have the bypass internally, before the filter (not the pressure-regulating valve, but a bypass for the filter). However, if it's not internal, like ours, it should have a bypass in the filter. Remember, dirty oil is better than none at all.
One way to balance the "clean oil" issue with the "full-time flow" issue is to use a German car filter, such as the one for the Porsche 944. It, like most German car filters, has a 20-25 psi differential opening pressure, while most other bypass-type filters have 8-10 psi differential opening pressure. That means the oil has to be really thick, or the filter really plugged up, to open the bypass. This gives a much better chance that your oil will always be clean under extreme conditions, while still allowing vital startup protection on those cold mornings.
Ren
I like the one for early RX's (3,4,5), I think it's L20073. Holds about a quart, nice and big. Has the built-in bypass valve, too, which is important for cold startup. I had started a little empirical research myself about this, but ran out of time before I had to move up here. I DON'T like Fram for their crappy construstion, but, unfortunately, it's all they carry on base, and parts are expen$ive out in town.
While the stock-size Purolator is available in Pure One, as I said, I like the larger L20073. You can use just about any 20x1.50 threaded filter, though, on a 2nd gen, especially the NA's. One large filter that Purolator does in Pure One, fits a (NO!!!) Honda/Acura. Just don't let anyone look too closely at your filter. Do like the Rolling Stones and "paint it black" or something. That would kinda screw up the nice pretty metallic blue finish on it, though.
Just a little FYI, I talked to an engineer for Purolator, and he said that if the factory filter comes with a relief/bypass valve (original S4 filters did, not sure about original S5, but none of the factory ones do now), you should use a replacement filter with such a valve. If not, you run the serious risk of engine damage due to lack of lubrication at startup, especially on cold mornings.
Some people like to use filters that eliminate the bypass valve, to ensure the oil is always filtered. This works ok for race engines, which don't see extremely cold conditions on a regular basis, but can cause starvation problems in daily drivers, due to the relatively high viscosity of the oil when it's cold. This is not to say that all filters should have a bypass, because some engines have the bypass internally, before the filter (not the pressure-regulating valve, but a bypass for the filter). However, if it's not internal, like ours, it should have a bypass in the filter. Remember, dirty oil is better than none at all.
One way to balance the "clean oil" issue with the "full-time flow" issue is to use a German car filter, such as the one for the Porsche 944. It, like most German car filters, has a 20-25 psi differential opening pressure, while most other bypass-type filters have 8-10 psi differential opening pressure. That means the oil has to be really thick, or the filter really plugged up, to open the bypass. This gives a much better chance that your oil will always be clean under extreme conditions, while still allowing vital startup protection on those cold mornings.
Ren
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Seattle
I use K&N at the moment, but I'll probably go to one of the CM filters ( http://www.cmfilters.com ) eventually. They've got replaceable elements and a nice sturdy can. I haven't decided on remote vs. spin-on, though.
Last edited by Blackavar; Feb 18, 2002 at 02:47 PM.
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