2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Oil dipstick keeps blowing out....

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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 01:31 PM
  #1  
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From: Austin Tx.
Oil dipstick keeps blowing out....

Everynow and then if I wrap it up the oil dip stick will pop a lil bit and shoot oil everywhere. What would cause this?
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 01:35 PM
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You are pressurizing your "crankcase".

Check the purge system. You may need to vent it into a catch can.

Something tells me the clearance on your side seals is a little big.
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 01:50 PM
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From: Austin Tx.
/\ explain on the side seals please.... I rebuilt this motor myself so all oppinions are welcomed. I clearenced em all slightly under what was it 0.03? whatever pineapple told me I cant remember... but then while all in with the corners I rechecked/adjusted as needed.

Also what are you refering to as the purge system?

Would it be enough to cause my car to run like crap below 3k? I'm thinking it's a timing issue with that though, plus the check engine light which will be fixing tonight.


How would I run a catch can? not sure on this type of motor, grew up around thumpers....
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 03:50 PM
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I don't recall off hand what acceptable side seal clearances are. 0.003 sounds about right though. I generally grind them until they float freely.

Check the FSM regarding the purge system.

A catch can is set up exactly the same way as on a piston engine.

You have a check engine light? Pull the codes. Running poorly at low RPM can have many causes. You'll need to be specific as to what is actually wrong.
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 04:58 PM
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From: Austin Tx.
the code is for the air intake Thermosensor, just got a new 'used' one, but to head up to the show and give her a try.

I dont have an FSM so I'll do some searchin online about it.
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by VortecBowtie
I dont have an FSM so I'll do some searchin online about it.
You can download a copy of the manual from one of the links in the 2nd gen FAQ. Interesting that you rebuilt the engine without having a shop manual handy.
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 10:41 AM
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From: Austin Tx.
/\ Lots of phone calls to pineapple racing, lots of videos, and a pos haynes manual.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by VortecBowtie
/\ Lots of phone calls to pineapple racing, lots of videos, and a pos haynes manual.
If you clearanced them to .03 in. then you put them to twice the wear limit. They should be .002 to .0059 inches.

Nice car BTW. Hope you get the engine straight.

Last edited by alexdimen; Nov 16, 2008 at 12:27 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 05:43 PM
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From: Whiterock
if you capped the nipples on the oil filler neck and the one under it on the block you need to uncap one and vent it.

you could drill a hole in a soda pop bottle lid and another in a angle at the top then glue a vacuum line in the lid and run it to the nipple on the block for a temp fix.

another option would be to uncap the one on the filler neck and slap one of those air pump filters on there.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 06:38 PM
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From: Austin Tx.
alexdimen-
I was thinking about this earlier, and I do remember I clearenced them at 0.003 because I had to pick up another set of feelers and had a wonderful time at sears searching for some that small then found some at the local 24hr autozone lol.

it doesnt seem like it is blowing out as often as it was, I dont know if its just because everything is finally really to break or or what.


walken-
Im not catching on to exactly which ones your talking about? I havent modded anything out side of the motor.

The only thing I've really done was a full rebuild minus housings, street port, and did the oil pressure regulator mod, but i didnt do it as extreme as shown. I wouldnt think it would be because of that...? because even with the pressure increased there is no actual air pressure change in the crank case right?
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