banzaitoyota

"Jeez its just a oil cooler. Its like a radiator for Oil ."

Thats true, however my reasoning for having a FAA certified shop perform the cleaning and testing is:

1. If I ever need to have a warrenty claim on my motor, I can prove that all required steps for engine installation were followed. (ie. Go to Atkins or Hayes site and READ the warrenty)

2. It provides ME peace of mind.

3. It frees up MY TIME to do more ****-retentive tasks on the car such as repainting and cleaning up wire harnesses.

4. As a former Submrine Ships Quality Assurance Officer and Quality assurance inspector dealing with SUBSAFE and NUCLEAR LEVEL I, II, and III components and assemblies. I can recognize the difference in the level of job I can do in my shop and sub-letting it out to a guy who's shop is set up to do this day in and day out.

SoloIIdrift

So if I was going to do this myself, do I have to wedge something in the bypass valve thermo thingy, or can I just take out the entire bypass valve and will that open the entire unit for cleaning?

Rpeck

I took the whole thing out of my car ... I did not run into any thermal bypass things .. on the oil cooler itself. I had my engine completely appart already.

The idea of having it done for warranty reasons makes alot more sense to me... I was not aware of that policy. I am doing my rebuild myself. (almost done )

SoloIIdrift

I see,

yeah there's an internal bypass valve in the oil cooler when it get's over 140F it then send oil throughout the entire cooler, as opposed to when it's cold, it just keep the oil in the end tank.

This may mean you only cleaned the end-tanks of yours...

Rpeck

Ya, it sounds like that might be the case. Where is this bypass located? how can you remove it... or open it for cleaning? Where did you get info on this bypass?

Thx.

Wankel7

And some people take their radiator to a radiator shop to have it cleaned and rodded out.

And some people use simple green and call it a day.

Some folks just like it done right imop.

James