2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

oil cooler

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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 07:29 PM
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oil cooler

I ran a couple searches and couldn't find anything very helpful.. I am in the process of taking off my oil cooler to have it inspected and whatnot, but i can't get the bottom fitting off of the cooler. I have read about using an impact gun or a breaker bar but i dont have either of those and my 23mm wrench has a short handle. i managed to pop off the top bolt but i have given this bottom one all i got and it wont budge even after i heated it with a torch. any suggestions? I dont really want to remove the line from the motor unless i dont have any other choice. Any suggestions? thanks guys
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 08:05 PM
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Buy a 23mm socket (go to Sears, Autozone, Pep Boys, etc, they have for sale individual sockets) and remove the oil cooler bolt with the impact wrench. Is nearly imposible to remove the bolt with a wrench when the cooler is installed in the car. I tried both methods and the first one worked for me.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 08:06 PM
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cheater pipes always work for me. If not, double wrench it!! (that means use the box end from one to slip over the open end of the 23mm wrench to increase the leverage)
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 08:11 PM
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i forgot to mention that i broke the rubber mount on one side soe the cooler is haning by an oil line so its kinda hard to brace it to torque it
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 08:12 PM
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working on cars and not having the right tools is a complete bitch. spend the money and invest in a nice air compressor and impact. trust me, you wont regret it.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 08:24 PM
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^ I totally agree man.. but at this point it's not worth it for him to buy a $200+ compressor and a $140+ impact. Clamp the oil cooler by the broken bracket with some vise grips and give it hell with the double wrench. Otherwise, you'll need some wood blocks and a c-clamp around the end tank if there's no meat to grab with the v-grips.

Are your cooler lines leaking? If so, find a local hydraulics shop and get them to make you some new ones. Mine cost ~ 50 bucks, and it holds 2000psi and withstands 600F. That way you can just hack the line off.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 08:25 PM
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I'm only 18 so its hard to find those kinda funds for the compressor and other tools.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by AGreen
cheater pipes always work for me. If not, double wrench it!! (that means use the box end from one to slip over the open end of the 23mm wrench to increase the leverage)
Best technique evar...I uses it.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 09:32 PM
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You can buy the air compressor on discount sales and buy a cheap impact wrench like the ones that wal-mart sales. A 260 or 275 pounds of torque is sufficient for the normal job that you can do. I have one from there.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 10:27 PM
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dont use arm strengths for it, use foot strength. put the ratchet on there with a buddy holding it up, and then just push with your foot. it will pop right off.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 11:23 PM
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eh i wouldnt use the double wrench method due to the fact that the wrench could slip off and there is a butt load of stuff to slice your hand open on lol, i dont know about you but i tend to get really pissed when that happens haha
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 04:53 PM
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Got it off tonight with the double wrench method. i clamped down the cooler and gave it **** and it finally popped off. Thanks guys!
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 06:52 PM
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After examining the cooler i found that there isn't anything wrong with the cooler itself so its the line that was leaking. i think the leak was coming from the fitment on the end of the line. is there any way to repair this rather than replacing the lines? just wondering before i begin to rip em out.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 07:23 PM
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The reason that the hose is leaking is because the rubber get dry and dont seal good. The better way is to replace the hose. In a hydraulic hose shop, they can replace it and you will use the same fittings. I get mine for $40.
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 08:05 AM
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I dont think there is anything wrong wirth the line itself but i guess i might as well replace them.

Last edited by 88Rx-7turboII; Apr 9, 2008 at 08:31 AM.
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 08:03 AM
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no alternative? i dont wanna get custom made lines with the same fittings if the fittings are leaking... ? how can i check my fittings? someone told me there is supposed to be a rubber o-ring on the fitting but i didnt see anything when i removed the cooler
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 08:38 AM
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You will reuse the fittings, not the metal coupler. The one that is crushed to tighten the hose. That ones are always installed new. They will cut the old ones and install and crush the new ones.
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 08:03 AM
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My top line is the only line that leaking so would there be any kind of problem if i only had the upper line replaced at this time? like i mentioned before im still in school and dont have very much cash on hand. If i cant fix the leak at a hydraulic shop by recrimping it then i was going to have a new line made with higher specs than stock would this make any kind of negative effect considering the bottom line is stock? i wouldnt think it would because the two lines areseperated by the cooler and are jus for oil transfer but i wanna be safe than sorry.
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 09:19 AM
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You can replace just one. The hose quality can be the same or better that the old bottom line one.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 08:28 AM
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Do i need a rubber o-ring in between my crush washers on my fittings? when i took it off there werent any o-rings but my mechanic said that they need to be there for a perfect seal? any truth to this?
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 88Rx-7turboII
Do i need a rubber o-ring in between my crush washers on my fittings? when i took it off there werent any o-rings but my mechanic said that they need to be there for a perfect seal? any truth to this?
no
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:25 AM
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Just got mine rebuilt by a hydraulic shop. Dropped it off around noon, done at 4. Cost me 25$. Good quality too
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