Oil Change / Royal Purple?
Oil Change / Royal Purple?
I'm about to do an oil change and I'm wondering if Royal Purple is good to use for my 1990 RX-7 GXL. I heard that you shouldnt use synthetic oil in your RX-7 but is Royal Purple an exception?
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: So Cal where the OC/LA/SB counties meet
Quick answer, yes.
Better answer, this has been covered thousands of times. The search function is your friend. Thirty seconds using it would have answered your question making this thread unnecessary. There is one thread where Icemark (hint) made great contribution to that will educate you beyond your dreams.
Better answer, this has been covered thousands of times. The search function is your friend. Thirty seconds using it would have answered your question making this thread unnecessary. There is one thread where Icemark (hint) made great contribution to that will educate you beyond your dreams.
I'm not sure about royal purple anymore since they released a new product called royal purple hps. Rp hps has the synerlec additive but the regular royal purple don't have it anymore, it used to have it but I don't know why rp removed it from regular royal purpleoil
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Originally Posted by Royal Purple.com
What is the difference between HPS and Royal Purple’s API-licensed engine oils?
Royal Purple’s API-licensed2 engine oils are formulated specifically to meet current American Petroleum Institute (API), International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC), and Association des Constructeurs Européens d'Automobiles (ACEA) specifications for new vehicle warranties. Over the last several years, these specifications have become increasingly stringent on certain additives, particularly those commonly used for anti-wear. As such, the new warranty restrictions aren’t the best solution for consumers that have modified their vehicles or those simply looking for the greatest performance.
HPS is formulated with these consumers in mind and includes a dramatically enhanced anti-wear package. HPS is also the choice for those seeking to maximize horsepower and torque, while reducing wear, heat and fuel consumption. HPS is the most robust engine oil Royal Purple makes for non-racing applications.
Royal Purple’s API-licensed2 engine oils are formulated specifically to meet current American Petroleum Institute (API), International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC), and Association des Constructeurs Européens d'Automobiles (ACEA) specifications for new vehicle warranties. Over the last several years, these specifications have become increasingly stringent on certain additives, particularly those commonly used for anti-wear. As such, the new warranty restrictions aren’t the best solution for consumers that have modified their vehicles or those simply looking for the greatest performance.
HPS is formulated with these consumers in mind and includes a dramatically enhanced anti-wear package. HPS is also the choice for those seeking to maximize horsepower and torque, while reducing wear, heat and fuel consumption. HPS is the most robust engine oil Royal Purple makes for non-racing applications.
Racing Oil vs API(street) oil
the simplest explanation would be, if you don't meet the spec, you're not API oil. even if you're WAY over the spec, you still gonna fail, cuz you're not "within" their spec.
Racing oil does not mean "oh it's just good for a few hundred miles cuz it's for RACING"
but one thing for sure is that, the term "racing" always comes with a higher price tag.
Personally, Anything with Group V as their base oil will be the most expensive (duh), Group IV (PAO) is not bad either.
in the US, even Group III (Hydrocracked) oil can be called Synthetic and they're selling that almost at the same price as their more expensive and better cousin.
but if you do 3K mile oil change, it doesn't matter much. I would avoid store brand oils tho.
and I would try to use SL grade oil over SM. SN is an improvement over SM. but still, if they have SL I would use SL (some brand/grade/weight are)
the simplest explanation would be, if you don't meet the spec, you're not API oil. even if you're WAY over the spec, you still gonna fail, cuz you're not "within" their spec.
Racing oil does not mean "oh it's just good for a few hundred miles cuz it's for RACING"
but one thing for sure is that, the term "racing" always comes with a higher price tag.
Personally, Anything with Group V as their base oil will be the most expensive (duh), Group IV (PAO) is not bad either.
in the US, even Group III (Hydrocracked) oil can be called Synthetic and they're selling that almost at the same price as their more expensive and better cousin.
but if you do 3K mile oil change, it doesn't matter much. I would avoid store brand oils tho.
and I would try to use SL grade oil over SM. SN is an improvement over SM. but still, if they have SL I would use SL (some brand/grade/weight are)
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