Oil change: 3k miles or 3 months - which is more important?
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Oil change: 3k miles or 3 months - which is more important?
I tried searching but i got every thread with the word oil in it, and no answers.
I changed my oil back in July or August, but since I'm at school and my 7 is at home, I don't get to drive it much, so i haven't even put 1k miles on it since I bought it and changed the oil. I checked it last weekend and it was black, but then after driving it, I checked it again and it was fine. Should I change the oil soon? What happens to oil when gets old?
also, what about the oil in the container sitting in my garage? I bought two of those gallon (i think it's a gallon) containers of Castrol GTX when I changed my oil back in July or August, but I didn't use all of the oil, so some has been sitting in the garage for several months. Is it still ok or does it absorb moisture or something?
thanks
I changed my oil back in July or August, but since I'm at school and my 7 is at home, I don't get to drive it much, so i haven't even put 1k miles on it since I bought it and changed the oil. I checked it last weekend and it was black, but then after driving it, I checked it again and it was fine. Should I change the oil soon? What happens to oil when gets old?
also, what about the oil in the container sitting in my garage? I bought two of those gallon (i think it's a gallon) containers of Castrol GTX when I changed my oil back in July or August, but I didn't use all of the oil, so some has been sitting in the garage for several months. Is it still ok or does it absorb moisture or something?
thanks
#2
3 moths or 3k miles, which ever come first in my opinion. I only use 10w-30 oil because synthetic doesnt burn as well. As you know rx7's are ment to burn the oil and not recycle it.
My opinion anyway
My opinion anyway
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Only thing to consider is ambient temp fluctuations and the fact it has been sitting all winter. With wide temperature swings especialy in the winter, expect condensation in the oil pan. With it just sitting the oil has not been warmed frequently allowing the H2O to vaporize.
I always change the oil in the spring before I take her out from winter hibernation regardless of the # miles since the last oil change. The new oil sitting in the container (prolly 5 quarts) should be just fine.
I always change the oil in the spring before I take her out from winter hibernation regardless of the # miles since the last oil change. The new oil sitting in the container (prolly 5 quarts) should be just fine.
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3 moths or 3k miles, which ever come first
I only use 10w-30 oil because synthetic doesnt burn as well. As you know rx7's are ment to burn the oil and not recycle it.
I'd suggest buying oil in 1 qt sizes and open them as needed to keep the oil fresh.
Only thing to consider is ambient temp fluctuations and the fact it has been sitting all winter. With wide temperature swings especialy in the winter, expect condensation in the oil pan. With it just sitting the oil has not been warmed frequently allowing the H2O to vaporize.
The new oil sitting in the container (prolly 5 quarts) should be just fine.
thanks guys!
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Change it the same time you would change any other car... the sooner the better. Technically, in a rotary, the oil actually stays CLEANER than a piston engine since there is/should be less contact with carbon surfaces. I've heard of people increasing their oil change frequency to 5000 miles. But, I still do it at 3000. Sometimes at 2500 if I get bored.
I use Havoline 10w30 almost year round, but it doesn't get super hot here.. In the summer months I'll switch to 20w40 or 20w50... but, it really only lasts a couple months (july/august for me); then I switch back to a thinner oil.
I read a really long article about how certain oils have higher ash rates when burned. Leaving more carbon buildup and exhaust soot. Havoline and Castrol GTX were amongst the lowest of the two. I use Havoline because it had the lowest soot numbers. I use Castrol in everything else though. I'll probably end up using Castrol on my next rebuild... That way I can buy castrol in bulk.
Another question (that I don't really have an answer to) is what oil filters do people use and why? I use PureOne or Mobil brand. I don't trust Fram.
I use Havoline 10w30 almost year round, but it doesn't get super hot here.. In the summer months I'll switch to 20w40 or 20w50... but, it really only lasts a couple months (july/august for me); then I switch back to a thinner oil.
I read a really long article about how certain oils have higher ash rates when burned. Leaving more carbon buildup and exhaust soot. Havoline and Castrol GTX were amongst the lowest of the two. I use Havoline because it had the lowest soot numbers. I use Castrol in everything else though. I'll probably end up using Castrol on my next rebuild... That way I can buy castrol in bulk.
Another question (that I don't really have an answer to) is what oil filters do people use and why? I use PureOne or Mobil brand. I don't trust Fram.
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which ever comes first...
sorry I only drive 3K a season but I still change the oil normally 3-4 times in the summer
I will be using 15W40 ELF synthetic oil when I get it (hopefully in the next couple weeks)
Dave
sorry I only drive 3K a season but I still change the oil normally 3-4 times in the summer
I will be using 15W40 ELF synthetic oil when I get it (hopefully in the next couple weeks)
Dave
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Originally Posted by micaheli
Another question (that I don't really have an answer to) is what oil filters do people use and why? I use PureOne or Mobil brand. I don't trust Fram.
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Originally Posted by SpooledupRacing
which ever comes first...
sorry I only drive 3K a season but I still change the oil normally 3-4 times in the summer
I will be using 15W40 ELF synthetic oil when I get it (hopefully in the next couple weeks)
Dave
sorry I only drive 3K a season but I still change the oil normally 3-4 times in the summer
I will be using 15W40 ELF synthetic oil when I get it (hopefully in the next couple weeks)
Dave
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3k miles or 3 months it doesnt matter when the oil sucks (is black) then change it. It can also depend on how much you drive it. You say you drove it and the oil was fine, if it looks ok then leave it alone but if it looks chocolate colored or even black its time for a change. I'm no expert on oil changes or anything but i change my oil when it gets modestly dark.
When it comes to a rotary engine its always better to be safe than sorry and take my advice................its never good to be sorry with a rotary engine.
When it comes to a rotary engine its always better to be safe than sorry and take my advice................its never good to be sorry with a rotary engine.
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Originally Posted by Turbo II
I hope you don't really beleive that......
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