oil change
05-20-03, 11:54 PM
#1
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oil change
what is the best oil for my rx7 TII i want ot go get it changed this week and if you guys could give me some opinions that would be great thanks
05-20-03, 11:58 PM
#2
OH,YOU TOUCHED MY TRALALA
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i use semi-senthetic 10-40 valvoline.. but i also have my Oil Metering Pump removed. i would sugjest regular 10-40 if its allways warm where you live.
ej
ej
05-21-03, 12:50 AM
#3
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
In Ca right now you should be running 20W50.
Figure 20W50 for operating the car in temps above 20F.
In temps above -10F to 80F 10W30.
Castrol GTX seems to be the most popular conventional oil for FC owners, while Mobil1, Redline, Neo, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are the better synthetics and can also be used safely in our motors for minor increases in HP (typically 1% or less). Of course synthetics still need to be changed every 3000 miles in a Turbo, just like any other oil.
You'll want to avoid 10W40 and 10W50 oils in any high reving motors. Too many additives and polymers to get that viscosity range, that build up leaving all sorts of deposits and gunk in high reving motors.
and I don't think there are any semi-synthetics that have a low ash content or decent zinc levels, and can not recommend them. The Valvoline synth typically has an ash content of up to 1.5% which is radically high and can cause build up in most engines. Compare that to Castol GTX 20W50 which has a ash of .85% or Amsoil synth which has less than .5%.
Ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine,
Figure 20W50 for operating the car in temps above 20F.
In temps above -10F to 80F 10W30.
Castrol GTX seems to be the most popular conventional oil for FC owners, while Mobil1, Redline, Neo, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are the better synthetics and can also be used safely in our motors for minor increases in HP (typically 1% or less). Of course synthetics still need to be changed every 3000 miles in a Turbo, just like any other oil.
You'll want to avoid 10W40 and 10W50 oils in any high reving motors. Too many additives and polymers to get that viscosity range, that build up leaving all sorts of deposits and gunk in high reving motors.
and I don't think there are any semi-synthetics that have a low ash content or decent zinc levels, and can not recommend them. The Valvoline synth typically has an ash content of up to 1.5% which is radically high and can cause build up in most engines. Compare that to Castol GTX 20W50 which has a ash of .85% or Amsoil synth which has less than .5%.
Ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine,
Last edited by Icemark; 05-21-03 at 12:59 AM.
05-21-03, 10:38 AM
#5
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by rx_7_driver
Good info IceMark
-Shawn <------- uses Castrol GTX 20W50
Good info IceMark
-Shawn <------- uses Castrol GTX 20W50
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
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05-21-03, 08:13 PM
#8
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by rotary>piston
synthetics are not recommended for rotaries with a working omp because they don't burn as well.
synthetics are not recommended for rotaries with a working omp because they don't burn as well.
Its the crappy synthetics like Valvoline, Castrol, Havoline, etc) that have issues with burning, and intresting that all but the Castrol have problems in their conventional oils with high ash and additives as well.
So it comes down to brand more than type.
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