Who here is using a oil bypass pellet? Would you recommend the use. If not, why not?

 

I'm using the Oil Thermo Pellet. I got mine at Mazdatrix.

After learning about It's functions, I Immediately ordered one.

I wasn't comfortable with the Rotors being deprived of Oil, during startup, at the expense of the Oil warming up faster. FB's did not have had this setup Mazda's Ingenuity Implemented them on FC's.

 

Who here is using a oil bypass pellet? Would you recommend the use. If not, why not?

 

I use them. I get the FC3s.org pellet. The dest solution is a solid E-Shaft though.

 

so what exactly does this do and where is it located?

 

I bought one - but I can't put it in!

I don't have air tools, so getting the front bolt off proved to be impossible. All that would happen was that all the slack in the drivetrain would act like a damper, and just "wind up". I had no luck AT ALL. Even with a breaker bar and steel tube. My last resort was to rest the bar on the frame rail and bump the starter. Well, that almost sheared the motor mounts apart, but did nothing to the bolt.

So, untill I get an impact wrench, the pellet is just an ornament on my tool box.

 

WOW, is it that hard to remove?

 

Yes, it really is that hard to remove.

It was actually easier to get the flywheel nut off than the front bolt.

 

The E-shaft oil bypass pellet was used to bring the engine up to operating temps faster, however it also denied the full flow of oil through the engine to do that. The idea is that a warm engine makes warm exhaust and therefore lower emissions.

I have always replaced or shimmed my FCs that had one. I feel it is more important to have the oil flowing fully through the motor, than to warm up the engine faster.

 

I good strap wrench on the pulley and a socket with a jack handle on the end did the trick for me. I just shimmed the bypass pellet using 5 m7 washers. I immediatly noticed an increase in oil pressure.

 

ok, that bolt can be a bugger. I used a breaker bar + 6ft pipe + 1998 cavalier and COULD NOT GET IT OFF. Then I used heat and a ratchet with nothing else removed it easily. Really! USE HEAT! Get a propane torch and bake it for a minute or three, then go at it right away with the socket. I'll come right off. Maybe use the breaker bar. the starter method WILL work if you use heat, if that's your last resort. Just make sure you don't actually start the car

 

Nah, its very very easy if the engine is still in the car.

Remove the fan (4 10mm nuts).

Get a good 3/8" or 1/2" breaker bar (good like Snap On, MAC or Craftsman- not crappy like local auto parts store brand) and the right socket (thinking 19mm but its been 6 months since It had to mess with one)

lay the handle of the breaker bar against the driver's side frame with the socket on the nut.

Jam the clutch in (the clutch needs to be jammed in the whole time the e-shaft bolt is loose).

Then use the key to crank the engine for a second, check the bolt if it is loose. If it isn't crank again for a second.

Never seen one that didn't loose within two pulses of the starter.

Just remember to keep the clutch in the whole time the bolt is loose or the bearings can fall (a couple people have had that happen on this board) and then you need to remove the whole front cover to fix it if those bearings did fall.

If the engine is flopping around in there or the drive line is jamming up, chances are your engine and tranny mounts are worn or broken.

 

what about getting the bolt back on with fc3s.org's recommended 200ft lbs of torque?

 

The bolt only needs 85ft lbs, with a dab of blue loctite. That is what is specified in the factory shop manuals for the bolt

200ft/lbs would be way way too much. You would never get it off again without removing the motor or jamming the flywheel.

 

I took off the fan and even the pullys so that I wouldn't have to use an extension between the breaker bar and the socket. I used a craftsman breaker bar with a 6 point socket on it. I tried it with a 3" post from a frost fence, and it wouldn't go. So I tried the starter method. The engine mounts were replaced last year. This thing DIDN'T MOVE! I'm serious, I tried the starter 3 times, and got nothing!

The reason that heat might work is because they use the perminant loctite. The heat might lessen it's effect, and then you just have to apply the 180 lb ft of pressure to undo the bolt. I think that I'm going to go to my friend's place and try the impact wrench.

 

well again... the bolt is only torqued on with 85Ft/lbs from the factory, so any additional pressure you need to exert is because of the loctite.

I really have never had the starter method not work, and I have done it at least a half dozen times over the last couple of years.

But then like you Nick, I do use Snap On breaker bars and Snap On or Craftsman long sockets, so the tools don't bend or give like some of the cheaper brands do.

Heck the last one I did was in the car and I only used a Snap on 3/8 inch bar with a hunk of pipe taped onto the end so that it would rest against the frame.

 

the starter method works great. just lay the breaker bar on top of a towel on the drivers side fender well, pull the ecu fuse so the car wont start and crank the engine a couple times. that breaks it loose and then you can use the bwrench to get it off the rest of the way

 

maybe your cheater bar should be longer than three inches?

 

Ha Ha, and all I had to do was plug the air compressor in, hook the hose up, put the socket on, and pull the trigger. Wow, you guys really got it ruff, you need to get air tools, there wonderful.

 

um...er.... yeah...... I mean 3'. Look what the metric system has done to me!

 

Air is the way to go. Best $185 I ever spent... compressor, tank and a plethera of air guns. Not to mention that every nut and bolt removal in the future will be alot easier and a whole lot of fun! I love that sound!

 

I shimmed mine after I lost a main bearing to it failing...

 

i love my three impact wrenches . a time like this, i actually feel good that i spent my money on my 2 IR and my aircat guns