MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Found the leak, it's the high pressure line from the compressor - the rubberized part that goes to the condenser. Is there anyway I can get a new one or am I stuck with pulling it and taking it to a hydro shop?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

You can buy a used one on the forum, but it will be old. You gotta take the old one off either way, why not get it fixed with new hose?

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Good points

The car's my daily driver at the moment, so I want to keep the system somewhat closed while I'm running around getting the line fixed. So it looks like the plan is to buy a used line, get it rebuilt, then swap it in along with the new drier.

Next on the list to fix is the Jeep, gotta insulate it and the lot - driving it now in 110 heat is just unbearable because of the lack of insulation

Thanks again for the help!

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

The connection between the high pressure line and the condenser is problematic. It is very hard to take it apart due to dissimilar metal corrosion. You should try soaking with PB blaster, maybe a little heat etc. If you have to cut it off, cut the tip off the hose you are replacing anyway. Then take the condenser out and get the connection apart when you have better access.

I have twisted off two of them recently, one from a salt rusted Canadian car and one from a rust free southern car.

Good Luck!

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

That connection was a bear! I eventually wiggled it free but Damn!

My system has been open for about 2 years, I removed the condensor, compressor and drier and capped the lines while I get things sorted. Cleaning the lines seems pretty straight forward, but what is the best way to clean the condesner/compressor before everything is reinstalled and leak tested? (w/ new o-rings and drier of course).

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Don't flush through the expansion valve or the compressor. If the expansion valve is clogged, replace it.

Compressor should be flushed as follows:
Remove the compressor from the car. Turn the compressor upside down and dump all the oil out of it. Rotate the shaft to allow all the oil a chance to get out. Add 2-3 oz of oil (ester) and rotate the shaft for 10-15 rotations. Dump this oil. Do it again. Then do it again. Add 3 oz of oil to the compressor and re install on the car.

For all the tubes, hoses condenser etc. use mineral spirits and a compressor blow gun. Pour blow, pour blow etc. Buy a gallon and use it all. Blow air through the pipes, hoses and condenser until the air is dry.

When you put the system back together, make sure you oil the o-rings with Ester. You should run the vacuum pump a minimum of 1 hour after leak checking to remove all the mineral spirit residual.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

A/C noob ....expansion valve? don't recall seeing anything else (other than what was listed) is it attached to the compressor?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

It's inside the evaporator unit under the dash. If you unhook all the piping under the hood, you won't have to worry about it. Just don't attempt to flush into and out of the unit under the dash.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

I've got PB blaster and a torch, thanks for the tip! Man, I wished that hose wasn't leaking - I'd have cold a/c by now

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Ohhh, THAT, yea, when I pulled the dash I checked all the interior stuff and replaced the non-existant foam around the ducts. Thanks

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

What kind of compressor did these lines come from? Looks like neither Sanden nor Nippondenso! Came from an FC

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Looks like my sanden

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Strange, my sanden's lines aren't joined as one piece, and is more like what's pictured in the FSM, each one has it's own bolt and hole.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

You may have the 'factory installed' A/C. Does your drier have the mounting bracket welded on to the canister or does your canister clamp into the mount, then the mount bolts to the car body?

If so, then it is relatively rare. Most FC's it seems have the 'Dealer Installed' system. They were actually installed at the Port of Entry.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Mine has the bracket welded on

FC3S_nataku

iTrader: (3)

hey everybody i plan on doing a complete overhaul on my ac system. I have a 88t2 with what i believe to be the factory option. every time i turn on the ac switch nothing happens which makes me think the low pressure switch is kicking in. how do i go about checking if the compresor is still in good shape? where would i go to buy a new evaporator and o rings? is freeze 12 still considered to be the best non R-134a freon to use? sorry for all the questions but im tired of sweating my *** off lol

FC3S_nataku

iTrader: (3)

anyone? i would like to try and get some of the stuff done on the last day of this holiday weekend

FC3S_nataku

iTrader: (3)

TTt :-/

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

The FSM has a great way to check your a/c electrical:

Using a DMM, test for continuity at the compressor clutch wire by touching the wire and then the compressor. If you hear the beep confirming continuity, next step:

Check for 12V at the a/c relay's plug, the FSM will have details on which pins to check (I'm at work, so I don't have the FSM with me) If everything checks out, next step:

Jumper the wires for the pressure switch located near the receiver/drier (first disconnect the battery). Reconnect the battery, turn the key to on, and turn on the a/c (fan and a/c button activated). You should hear the clutch engage, it's a pretty distinct sound. If you're not sure, start the engine and turn on the a/c. If the compressor works and the clutch kicks on, you should be good.

It's hard to tell what kind of condition the compressor is in, so I don't have much clue there.

Freeze 12 is what I use in my car, and it works very well even in 110+ heat. It's a great avenue to take if you want to stay with an R12 system.

Buy your o-rings from autozone, it's about 20 bucks and you'll get more o-rings than you'll ever need.

You can buy your new receiver/drier from autozone (online only). Make sure to get the more expensive one if your current drier has a bracket welded on it. It's about 40 something bucks.

Hopefully I was of some help, good luck!

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

few months ago, my drier blew up, well developed a crack and all the contents leaked out.
Probably due to filling too much freeze12. It was running great/nice and cool when the drier blew up, I did not hear anything, just mist spraying from the hood, which was the freeze12 spraying out of the crack.

Kinda sad summer is about over, but I am not sure about the shelf life of the new bottles of freeze12 that I just bought, so i installed a new drier. Installed and vacuumed the low pressure port for a good ammount last night. Switched over to a bottle of ester oil. With the car running, a/c compressor jumped. I couldn't get the system to take in the bottle.

Perhaps because I attempted to do this at night/cooler temps, the bottle itself losing some pressure to evacuate? Maybe do it during warmer temps? I did this last year and no problem, but I did it during hot weather.

I cant imagine my compressor being damaged, well I would hope it is not. The lines will hold good pressure btw

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Have you tried putting the can in a pot of warm water while charging?

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

I been working at the family business all day so i only get night to do it right now, and thats probably not a good idea as id probably end up trying to rush it , so maybe Ill try to hold out til the weekend. Yeah im gonna try warming them up next time.

FC3S_nataku

iTrader: (3)

hey im bringing this thread back as we are in the middle of summer and someone else might need it. can someone post pics of both kinds of ac compressors so people know if they have the denso unit or the sanden unit. thanks

cluosborne

Here's a picture of a Sanden SD-708 from an '89 non-turbo. The green oil is Ester oil that's compatible with either R-134a or R-12. There are two different Sandens on the Non-Turbos. The '89 in the picture has two separate compressor hoses, each with their own hose. The '88 has the two compressor hoses combined with a single bolt. They are interchangeable provided you use the compressor hoses that go with the compressor.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

^That's great info regarding the compressor hose differences!