okay like a week ago my accelerated warmup used to rev to 3000 for like 15 seconds then it would go down to 1000 rpm, good rite? well i noticed like 3 days ago that now it only revs up to 1500 rpm and the rpm goes up and down like for 15 seconds and then it goes to 1000 rpm. well ever since that lil bug i noticed that when i rev to a constant rpm below 3000 the rpm goes up and down. I just wanna know what would cause this? i have a 88 n/a and also when i rev to a constant rpm above 3000 it doesnt go up and down like it does when im at 3000 or below. please if you have any ideas feel free to make suggestions

 

omg ppl im having a real problem and all u do is repost to threads like "how to swap on manual doors?" easy change ur doors and i cant believe so many ppl responded to good fuel injector cleaner common im having a real problem and i need ppl to help me out and o yea this is a bump... LOL but seriously help out a fellow 7 owner plz

 

and 1 more thing my oil pressure is low it like at 30 where b4 it was at 60-90 psi any1 know what would cause this?

 

How about "OMG why don't you have some patience"???
34 minutes dude.
We ain't getting paid for this, so why are you expecting us to wait on your hand-and-foot?

The answer is...it's not a problem, so why are you looking for an answer?


-Ted

 

Do you have any of that light tan slick, stuff? You know, OIL, in the engine? Second, as far as the rpm issue, I would have to say your TPS and OMP, and ACV have sent a signal to the ECU that the BAC and CAS have failed. I would first adjust CWS, O2 sensor, making sure that the MAF and LIM haven't changed the TV to CBS from ESPN, and making FOX pissed at MTV for using TNT on CNN.

FILM AT 11:00

PEACE THE DOG

 

Check the TPS get the injectors cleaned.

The cold start is controlled by the wax pallet on the TB. There is allso a few sensors in the link too. The SubZero, Temp sensor at bottum of RAD, Oil temp sensor.

Its early so thats best I am gona do.

 

What sub zero? That thing never works.... And the oil temp is NEVER sent to the ECU.. Are you freebasing kat litter again? Please...


The Thermowax controlls fast idle, not AWS...

 

my oil level is just below high so low oil level is not the cause for this and i was thinking bout either gettin new injectors or getting them cleaned which ever would be bigger bang for my buck imma do some research and ill get back at you guys. second my sub zero is empty, i live in cali. so i dont see why havn it empty would do anything but ill filler up just in case and sorry but what is cws? TPS seems to be fine off to work i'll keep u guys updated

 

About accelerated warmup....at least on a series four.........The part where the engine goes to approx 3000 for 17 seconds only happens if the engine/radiator water temp is over 65degrees.

So along comes Fall and the outside temps drop and the water temp in the radiator falls below 65 degrees and WALLA..no rev to 3000rpm. You'll still get a high idle in the 1500rpm range if your car is NORMAL due to the thermowax/fast idle cam/roll pin/ throttle plates being a touch open.

I may be off a degree or two on the 65 degree figure. I also figure the series five works much like the series four except they don't have the much coveted Water Temp Switch at the bottom left of the radiator.

EDIT: It's 62.6*F, not 65*F.

 

well back then when i boght the car in sept. it would still do it every day til just recently when i noticed that my oil gauge read 40 psi and when my idle got kinda wierd. do u guys think i sould buy the 84 fuel injectors? i read that its not reccomended that you put the primaries tho, why not? and i see that lots of ppl have walbro injectors, how much would that cost? or should i just get them cleaned?

 

Man, I'm wondering if you're smoking something illegal, cause that didn't make any sense...

"84 fuel injectors"???
Fuel injectors from a 1984 GSL-SE?

"Walbro injectors"???
Walbro fuel pump?


-Ted

 

What , with my clever response, I get no love? Oil if fine, coolant level is O.K., all fluids are the proper level? right? The outside temperature is affecting my 90 FC3C the same way. Nothing to worry about. But if you are, take a hair dryer, and warm up the radiator a bit, then start, and see if it changes. If it doesn't, get in the car and check the big nut behind the steering wheel. Sometimes, he needs an adjustment.

PEACE THE DOG

 

It was in a TSB release. Gota head to work but I will try and find it. Said that it didnt work and to unhook refering to the oil temp sensor in the pan. Said it was part of the AWS. The subzero never works but no one said it did, however it is a part of the aws. As well the thermal wax is not the only link in the chain.

 

According to the FSM, the document you seem to REFUSE to read, the sub-zero assist is a SEPARATE entity and has absolutely nothing to do with the AWS circut. (Page 4a-87)

Also, lets not confuse AWS with Fast Idle. Aws is controlled by AND ONLY by the following sensors:

The Air Bypass Solenoid Valve (this is the small beer keg looking thing by the BAC) is on for 17 seconds when the WATER TEMPERATURE SWITCH (2 pole switch, bottom right of the radiator when looking aft) is below approx 62.6 degrees Farenheit (input Pin 1H to ECU). Of course, all this Mickey Mouse buisness can be inhibited by that pesky IN GEAR/NEUTRAL switch (ECU Pin 1G), but then again I havent seen too many cars that have this switch intact.

 

I wouldn't even worry about the fast idle on start up if I were you. In my opinion, the less my engine revs when it is cold the better. In fact, when I start my car cold, I tap the accelerator right after it starts just so that it doesn't rev high when its cold. Also, there is a way to get rid of the fast idle start all together, but I don't remember where I read it in this forum.

 

reted i was in a hurry so i just responded to all the other post without gettin into detail sorry.some1 said that my car rev to 3000 because my rad. water temp. droped below 62.5 but i told him that even in summer when i bought the car it would rev to 3000 rpm no matter the temp. and now that its even colder it only revs to 1500 but the rpms go up and down now, get it? i said that i notice this when i noticed that my oil pressure went down to like 30-40 psi where b4 it used to be in between 60 and 90 psi, still with me. and some1 else said that i should clean my injectors cause my car kinda hesitates a lil when im at a constant rpm below 3000 but when im at a constant rmp above 3000 it dosnt hesitate 1 bit. thus i asked the question whether it would be better to get my old stock injectors clean or to just by some after market or even the 84gsl-se ones, but on the 84 ones i heard that its not recommended to use the 84s primaries only the secondaries, so i would like some expertise on anything that i just wrote bout. thnx and sorry for those of you that didnt understand g2g back 2 work at 3:30 peace out -swift-

 

aws accelerated warm up system is part of the link of the thermal wax pallet that we are refering to. Reson it has been brought up. The wax pallet is used to warm the car up faster by increasing the idle, is it not?

 

swift fc..start the car and go to the front apssenger side of the car ..there is a screw that looks like an eye.satring at you (behind the stock air box and between the strut tower) ..adjust it ..R=rich...l=lean..you can adjust the idle at the top of the throttle body with the screw at that location..it worked for me.

 

We normally recommend never touching that screw, anyhow it only effects the fuel mixture under 1k rpms.

 

thats the normal fast idle, not the AWS.

 

ok then thnx all of u that have helped i didnt know that was normal warm up and not the aws. and misterstyx69 for that im gonna try that eye screw thing 2morrow after work. the worst that can happen is that is messes up my idle and i'll just screw it back to where it was

 

I was under the impression from the FSM that the air bypass solenoid valve was the part responsible for accelerated warmup process. When it's energized, it opens and lets bypass air through. If you're having problems with accelerated warmup... I'd clean all my grounds, adjust my crank angle sensor and tps with a multimeter, then mechanically adjust idle. Also, check for vacuum leaks with a spray bottle or something. Then, if that doesn't fix it... I'd be suspicious of the air bypass solenoid valve. This is what I get from reading the FSM. Correct me if I'm wrong, please.

Good luck and goodnight.

 

Tell you what. Pull the plug off your Air Bypass Solenoid Valve. Then start the engine and see if your rpms don't still go to approx 2300rpm for 17 seconds. I think you'll find that it will do just that. The BAC works with the Air Bypass Solenoid to create the approx 3000rpm for 17 seconds during a accelerated warmup. Without the Air Bypass Solenoid it just goes to approx 2300rpm.

 

Yea, I need to fix my idle too so I'll try when I'm out there today.