Just a note for the record, I removed my fast idle cam so I could get the near-boiling coolant as far as possible from my intake system, and it seems that it idled fine for a while... and then as soon as I added some refrigerant to my AC, I started not being able to hold an idle at cold starts.

Although I'm not entirely sure about what caused the sudden change, I would suggest not removing the fast idle cam if you're driving a NA street car, especially one with AC.

 

For the record, I made 172rwhp on an s4 n/a with all that hot coolant running through the TB. This is what I call a "scraping the bottom of the barrel" mod.

I am not a fan of the TB mod, or at least removal of fast idle cam and dashpot. I had it on my T2, and then I went back to a stock throttlebody. Once I had the fast idle cam and dashpot adjusted it had a much more stable idle--although this is on a car with a big streetport and no BAC, with a lightweight flywheel.

 

The dashpot I would not remove. Besides me spending 75 bucks on a new one, it's important because it helps the car stay a bit smoother when you go off-throttle (FCs are extremely rough in first and second gear).

I did remove the extra throttle plates on the secondaries and that hasn't caused any problems. I also smoothed out the radius in the stock throttle tube because it was SHARP... every little bit counts, I suppose...

Just don't jump on the throttle when the car is cold and it's no problem.

 

i wonder how many people still have working a/c on there FC's...lol


thanks for the tip

 

I do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I PUT AC back onto my FC (and added cruise control)

 

nice mine blows ice cold

 

I still have to re-route alot of the plumbing (i'm not leaving it stock) before I decide to charge my system. I'm going to be hiding the piping in the fenders for a little cleaner look. That's at least the plan, whether or not it actually happens is another bet.