Dominique Hollman

my large street ported 86 fc, is flooding constantly, so i got my injectors cleaned in hopes that would solve the issue. i replaced them and the intake gasket, double checked for any vacuum leaks ( none that i can see) and yet my car would not idle without me on the throttle. i checked my MAF and it appears to be working fine, i just did spark plus and wires a month ago, so those shouldn't be the issue..
^ that was all last week.

NOW i went to try and get it started to try and hunt down a vacuum leak or whatever is causing my issue, and it just keeps flooding itself again.
did i just **** myself over by not doing anything on the fuel side of things and then putting my clean injectors in??
is it possible that they are already stuck open again even though it didn't run for long before it decided to stop working again??
(i do have a apexi neo SAFC and AEM wideband installed too) but that's all i have done mod wise besides the large street port, it ran a little rough prior to this issue ( removed 5th and 6th ports and emissions crap) im having but i never had to struggle to get it started..

I would really appreciate some direction and ideas of to what exactly could be going on.. I'm only a year into my rotary career and being a lady doesn't help me either.. nobody gives me the time of day. so im here in hopes one of you has some advice for me!

Thanks guys! Much love and good vibes to you all

WondrousBread

Vacuum leaks usually cause a high idle, so I wouldn't suspect that off the bat. It's never a bad idea to check though. You know your injectors are good, so that is the usual culprit for flooding and it's been checked off. You know the spark plugs are new - are the wires going to the right plug? The ignition coils are labelled, and so are the spark plug ports on the engine. Make sure T1, T2, L1, L2 are all going to the right place. This is not a likely cause for your problem since it apparently appeared on it's own, but it's easy and free to check.

It is unlikely that your injectors are stuck open again. Record any corrections you have set in the SAFC and set it to zero to see if the corrections are causing the problem. I have never used an SAFC myself, but if it's messing with fuel delivery then it's a possible suspect. You can always set it back later.

Consider that the Rx7 ECU is about as complicated as a brick. It has no learning functions, limited correction (which is why an SAFC works in the first place), and not even a check engine light to tell you if something is wrong. When this sort of situation happens the best thing to do is to check the connections to the sensors and the sensors themselves. The factory service manual (Foxed.ca) has check procedures for most of these sensors, otherwise you can check the forum too.

I would definitely check the Throttle Position Sensor. Google search "rx7 fc tps site:www.rx7club.com", it's easier than the forum search function. Also check your engine grounds, Aaron (www.aaroncake.net) has an excellent write-up on those.

When the car is all the way warmed up, does this still happen? One thing to consider is that much of the "emissions crap" people delete does have a function. 5th and 6th port sleeve deletion is losing you low end torque and gaining you nothing on the top end, but this is fairly benign. Sometimes people delete the thermowax and/or BAC valve during emissions deletion and both of these impact warmup and idle regulation. I know the air pump and ACV have something to do with exhaust port air injection at idle, but it's been awhile since I dug into that. Combining this with the large street port optimizing the engine for high RPM performance, I would not be surprised that your idle is affected somewhat. You may find afterwards that you need to raise your idle using the small screw on top of the throttle body (stock is 750rpm, try 900 and see if it's better). Do this only after fixing whatever is currently causing the flooding problem.

This post is long and rambly, but hopefully it gives you a few ideas to look into. If you can let us know exactly what emissions stuff has been deleted we may have more suggestions. Good luck; make sure to post when you figure out what it was

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

welcome to the board.

my first question is what are you running for exhaust?

is the S-AFC something you can easily disable? if so, try doing that. then deflood the car and see how it runs on it's own.

if all you did was have the OEM injectors cleaned, i can't imagine them flooding the car just because they are "working" now. as stated above, removing some of the emissions equipment can surely aggravate your situation if they are related to how the car idles.

mr_vaughn

iTrader: (1)

The SAFC goes in between the Air flow meter and the ECU. Check the wiring of the S-AFC is correct and no dry joints or broken connections.
I agree on noting values and entire configuration . Then zero out the fuel/air flow /ignition adjustments.
if you need the manual for the SAFC fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/EL/FUELCON/APEXI/safcii_manual.pdf

Did you replace the fuel filter too when doing the injectors?

Dominique Hollman

all I had to do was zero out the controller!! But I’m idling at 2k now. Dunno why I didn’t think of the controller before🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️ It’s always something simple stupid lol.

DR_Knight

iTrader: (23)

Recheck for vacuum leaks and might as well recheck timing. I don’t think the safc would affect timing enough to make it raise that high. Double check throttle body dash pot and throttle cable settings.

long story short, safc was sold with another unit to adjust timing because adding fuel modified the air flow signal which adjusted timing. Probably not the issue though.

you should notice if the isle raises then falls or just holds steady rpm. If it holds steady try what I said earlier and take into account what others have said about idle adjustment via throttle body and tps.