Hi guys, ok so heres the problem, when i start the engine it shakes to about 1k and then it sputters and dips and rises like crazy, the engine shakes and it just all around idles like ****, but after 1.5k its fine, it still sputters a bit on the way there but it makes good power and everything else is fine, the idle is just scary, it feels like its going to shake itself to pieces, i dont think its a timing issue because it was just tuned, maybe injectors, plugs, or vacuum leak? anyone?

 

Well i had a similar problem, it may be TPS or Vac Leak not really sure but you can try to adjust them

 

PM Karack, he is there in Vegas (I am moving there soon). He may be able to help you out.

 

Man I fought the same issue for a long time. Changed the plug wires and plugs, pulled the UIM and had the injectors cleaned/refurbished, replaced all the vacuum hoses. Tested and cleaned the BAC. Replaced the O2 sensor. At the end of the day, it was a vacuum leak. Took me two weeks in my spare time to find it. But as a result of all the other work, my car is running great.

 

i wish i knew where my vacuum leak was

 

I found mine with the carb cleaner method. It was leaking in the back corner of the uim so I thought I had a faulty gasket. Pulled the uim and replaced the gasket and found that the leak was still there. Found a cracked vacuum hose. Replaced it. Problem solved.

 

Hey guys anyone know why my rx take a while to heat up for it to idle? I have to keep my foot on the gas padel at 1k to 2k for couple minute inoder for the idle to stay below 1k?

 

The engine ought to rev to about 3000 rpm for 17 seconds upon starting the car then drop down to around 1500 rpm and then after that it drops very slowly as it warms up until the idle is about 750 rpm. If your car does this then it is acting properly.

 

Thanks for the responses guys, i found a hose completely disconnected on the engine side of one of the boost controller hoses, could this be the problem?

 

sounds like that could be the problem.. connect it and see how it runs

 

reconnected and it helped, it turned out to be the AFC that was installed was set wrong, the previous owner had it at -13 air intake at idle, changed it to 0 and shes idling at a solid 850rpm now

 

Thanks for the infor I think that sound like mine, but just that I have to give a little gas for the car to stay running until it get hot. For the rpm to. Drop around 750

 

yep, any small leaks in the system will adversely affect the idle quality because the AFM is measuring how much air is entering the engine which is bled off by boost/vacuum leaks which cause the engine to run rich/lean at most any given time except at the 0 boost/vacuum threshold. unless the engine has larger primaries then there was no reason the car should have ever been leaned out.

if you run into any other issues with the car drop me a PM, i'm local and i can take a look at it or retune the car to be sure it is ok.