so heres the story, im almost done doing an auto to manual trans swap. i have everything connected but i got lazy and deicided to put a push button starter on the car so i dont have to deal with the safety switch.

now everytime i try to crank over the engine it seem like im not getting any fuel. cause normally you would smell fuel even while your cranking it over right? can anyone show me the pic of the diagram, i really need to get this thing out of my driveway by the end of the day.

 

When you turn the key to the "on" position, do you hear the fuel pump prime?

 

come to think of it. i dont.

edit: also i have deleted all the emissions

 

That would most likely be the culprit then. Question is why it isn't turning on...

 

hm, im try bypassing it and see where that takes me.

 

fuuck, i feel soo noobish. i found the damn relay under the passenger seat.

i just got OWNED.

 

push start?

pics please I want to remove my cig lighter and put it there.

 

ok now that i have rewired my fuel pump to a switch, its still wont fire to save its life. i am getting fuel pressure but the injectors will not fire.

could it be the automatic ecu not firing the injectors for some reason? i still have yet to test the injectors but ill do that tomorrow since the weather outside doesnt look too forgiving.


lol check it out. spent less than 10 bucks lol

 

I bet in a few months you end up snapping your radio surround. That 20+ year old plastic probably wont hold up to the stress your gonna be putting on it. And fix yer feckin ashtray button.

 

Have you addressed the Inhibitor switch?

 

nah itll be fine, you dont have to press it too hard for it to switch on. but if it does break i still have a mold to make another center console.

i have bypassed it. dont think it affects the fuel part of the car

 

The Inhibitor switch is connected to pin 1L, clutch switch, and pin 3B, starter switch, of the ECU.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...to_5speed.html

 

Ah alright got it. Ill check it out tomorrow

 

haha just where I was thinking. In that "i think I threw a piston" thread the op relocated the entire ignition switch to the stereo surround so I might just extend the wires and leave the key ignition but in the cig lighter.

oh and try going back to the key ignition and see if that works cause maybe your push button is not sending that signal telling the car to start. Are you getting cranking or nothing at all?

 

yea, its a crank no start issue.

i would relocate the whole ignition in the dash but it looks stupid imo. i prefer something subtle and simple.

 

so is it that black/red wire that i need to run a wire to the starter?

 

Which B/R wire?

 

number 17
17)

if you wish the clutch interlock switch to operate (car wont start without pedal being pressed) then locate the plug for this switch; it is the black box at the top corner of the pedal assembly with a white plastic pin that contacts the clutch pedal arm. This is a simple normally open switch that closes when the pedal is pushed. Run a wire from the IGNITION SWITCH side of the black/red wire, to this switch, then out of this switch, through the firewall, and down to the starter. Connect it to the small terminal on the starter. If you don’t wish the clutch switch to operate, run your wire straight from the ignition to the starter.

or is this just for the starter switch? if so ive solved that already

 

Normally, the wire leading to the starter solenoid which is B/W divides into two where one goes to the solenoid while the other goes to the starter switch of the ECU (pin 3B). If for whatever reason you don't need the starter switch at the ECU involved then the B/R wire would go to the solenoid assuming you want to bypass the clutch being depressed to start.

 

yea i understand now.

i just tested pin 3b and no voltage signal of any kind. soo i figured if i wire a toggle from a source to pin 3b itll trick to think that its in park or "ready to start?"

cause from what i read 3b is pretty much the signal telling the car is ready to start.

 

Normally, the signal at pin 3B which came from the B/W wire I mentioned earlier comes back to the steering wheel area to connect to the Circuit Opening relay (upper left position in plug) which helps to excite a coil within the relay to turn the fuel pump on while starting and then when the car is started and the key springs to the on position then the AFM controls the fuel pump and the voltage on the 3B wire ends. Not sure if this is rehashing what you already knew, but I thought I would throw it out there.

 

yea thats pretty much what i figured. seeing that i pretty bypassed the opening circuit relay that explains why im not getting any signal to pin 3b(fuel pump not priming, injectors not operating etc).

ill wire up a toggle tomorrow and see what happens. im more than positive this might be the problem.

 

Just to clear things up but the signal first goes to pin 3B then to the Circuit Opening relay and not vis versa.

 

ah, alright i get it. so the ecu sends out the signal via 3b (b/w wire) to the opening circuit relay which powers or gives a signal to pretty much everything i need.

 

alright its just now getting aggravating.

so last night i searched through some of my old threads and found this


i hooked those 2 wires up to the starter switch and now i keep blowing engine fuses. so i pulled both of the two wires and left it as it was before but still blowing engine fuses.

now all i can think of is a bad circuit opening relay and main relay. anyone else might have any ideas was causing this? or the easiest method to finding the short?

soo far ive given up just for today and have the whole day tomorrow to figure this out.

edit: or you think it would just be ALOT easier to use a body harness from a 5speed?