Hi

I have a 87 t2 with a j-spec engine. And my car was running great 100% good idel and everything but than i parked it and an hour lator i go to start it and it wouldnt start so i check all my fuses and than there all ok so i check for spark and i ground a spark plug and i get no spark. I have already replaced my crank angle sensor and it made no differance what so ever and i check my coils and i am get 12v to them both of them. than i checked the sensor that controls the opening and closeing of the injectors and coils and it was ok. so i have no ida what it could be what should i check next thanks.

 

check to see if your cas is getting power.

 

CAS don't get power.

 

bump

 

remove one spark plug wire at the leading ignitor, set it right on the top hole where it plugs into, get your other cas and plug it in, then turn the gear by your hand, clockwise I think. You should hear sparks flying around in there, or see them if you in a dark enough space. Are your plugs good? Make sure your EGI fuse is in the right spot when you try this. I didn't have spark when I tried to start my car, then put the egi fuse back in and bam I had spark.

 

dam that didnt work should the key be on to try this, but thanks tho anyone have any other idas and witch fuse is this one you are talking about? I tested all my fuses and there all good.

 

The EGI fuse is the green one in your engine bay, it's a 40amp fuse I believe(I could be wrong, I don't have my RX to use as a reference right this second), but it is the green fuse. Regardless of the amperage

 

I removed that fuse and tryed it and it still dose not work. any other idas thanks

 

bump

 

I had the same problem, when I first dropped in the motor. It so happens that it was a ground on the harness, by where the injector wires are. It has 2 wires with a loop fiting on it.

 

its the airflow meter. unplug the airflow meter, and crank the car. dont unscrew it, take the metal clip out that holds it on, and crank the car up. it should crank up, and rev a lil bit, then die. then after that, throw the old airflow meter away and buy a new one.

 

Could be the connections on the AFM as well. If you take one apart, its a fairly simple device, and is sealed so dust and **** doesn't get in there easily. However on the harness that connects to it, the pins could get corroded after the years and **** everything up. Before you huck it, make sure the pins are nice and clean.

 

ok ill go try it and see what happens.

 

Hi

wow that didn't work, dose anyone have any other idas? Just to make shure im doing it right how do i test my main relay? and where are some grounds that i could check to see if there pluged in? thanks

 

You can test things IF you have a digital meter. If you have a meter and know how to use it, then we can tell you how to tell if things are working or not working. We don't consider a buglight a digital meter.

 

hi, yes i have a digital meter a nice one at that. so how do i test it and what setting should it be one? thanks

 

First let me ask you something. Remember the post at the beginning of this thread where a fellow suggested you pull the cas out.........leave its plug connected........ lay the LEAD sparkplugs on the chassis.......turn the key to ON.......spin the cas's gear and look for spark and for the sound of the fuel injectors clicking. The question is "did you do this with the key to ON?". If you didn't, then do that with the key to ON.

Lets say that you did it with the key to ON. You saw no spark and heard no clicking of the injectors as you rotated the cas. Get the meter out. PUll the boost sensors elect plug off. Put the meters neg lead to a good ground and with the key to ON, see if there is approx 4vdc at the BROWN/WHITE wire in the boost sensors electrical plug.

EDIT: then check and see if the black/white wire has approx 12vdc on it. Remember one thing for sure NEVER GROUND THE BROWN/WHITE wire to ground (redundent?). Yes, never ground any brown/white wire on the car because you'll do terminal damage to the ECU. That is ref voltage power. No ref voltage.....ain't a never ever gonna start til a new ECU is installed.

 

ok ill go try that and see what happens.

 

If you had 12v at the LEAD coils little white, two socket connector (the black/yellow wire) then you KNOW the MAIN RELAY is good. That 12v for the black/yellow wire is from the main relay.

One thing you might do is access the ECU. It's under the passengers feet rug. It's under a metal plate. PUll the smallest plug off. YOu should have 12v at the sockets on the PLUG at pins 3I, 3C, 3F, 3H, 3E. The last four wires are from the injectors. The first is 12v to power the ECU.

Looking at the back of that smallest plug, the side where the wires enter the plug....the sockets are labled from the far right and you count to the left in a up/down method. So that 3A will be the top far right socket and 3J will be the far left bottom socket. Get it? Yes.

I'd check that approx 4vdc at the boost sensor plug first before doing the ECU.

Remember, it's the plug that your checking voltage at, NOT the ECU pins. Stay away from them for now.

 

Do you know where the fuel pump check connector is? It lays near the boost sensor. It is not connected to anything. It's yellow in color but might have a black boot covering its outside. It has two sockets.

If this item has a piece of wire jumpered from one socket to the other AND the key is to ON, the fuel pump should run. You should be hearing a hissing sound from the fpr and a motor sound coming from the gas tank indicating the pump is working.

As a side note: Doing the cas as described in the other post, you prove two things WITHOUT burning you starter up. You prove the thing has/has not spark and that the injectors click or work. Cranking a non starting car for long periods just burns them up/wears them out. Plus you don't have the starter circuit pulling down the battery voltage.

 

The only PROBLEM with pulling the cas out, is to make sure you know how to reinstall it. To reinstall it, align the yellow (first) mark on the crankshaft pulley with the fixed pointer.

Pull the black cover off the top of the cas. Then aligh the two marks at the bottom of the cas. The teardrop shaped one with the fixed dot. As you hold that position, look at the gears in the top of the cas. When you get through putting the cas in the engine you MUST tun the body of the cas until those gears are where you are now looking. Get it? Once installed and those teeth at the top are where you saw them with the bottom gear aligned, then snug up the cinch nut/bolt to hold the cas down.

 

I already told you, Its a ground with 2 wires and a loop connector. Thats the only ground other than the battery one, that will keep the ignitors from sparking, and fuel from flowing IIRC..

 

ok i tryed that, and with the key on and there is no differance there is no clicking other than when i try to start the car and the battery wasnt on all the way i herd some clicking. But than i rotated the cas and noting at all so i pulled the pressure sensor plug like you said and i am geting all kinds of readings there jumping up and down what dose this mean?

 

where is this ground wire with loop connectors located? and by the way "dam that is a nice rx7".

 

Just to be clear. The test was to be with the key to ON. Don't turn the key to START. Just to ON.

If you were going to START and cranking the engine, then go back and try again with the key to just ON. NOT start. The engine and starter should not be turning when you do this turning of the cas gear.

So you can see I'm not sure if you went to START or just to ON. It's confusing me a bit.

If the key was just to ON, and the meter was jumping around..........then put the meter on the battery positive and negative post and the meter on DC volts. Does it still jump around?????????????/ I don't know about your meter, but it should have maybe two or three different scales. Pick a scale from say 0-12v....at least a scale that will read up to 12volts. Later.

This car ran before so I don't see it being the ECU ground ring terminal. I could be wrong. Probably not though.