RXpilot

I've had this 89 FC3 convertible for about 3 years now.... only driving it on Fridays and has been a great car. (100% original)

Suddenly now I have the wiper problems (low speed only/wont park), cruise wont set (I think something fell off the pedal that senses that it's in the up position), A/C light wont (however it still works with original R-12!), and that the alram wont set. (I also notice I dont get the -lights left on- audible alarm any more, nor do I get a fasten seat belt light on when iginition is turned on. Lastly, That dam check engine light keeps coming on (I replaced the O2 sensor). I also notice a gas smell when pulling into the garage.

I've read about most of the elecrical problems of 2nd gen (this is my 3rd one, a conv. after having an 87 Turbo, and 88 Non)

Sound like a bad CPU to anyone? Hate to order one from MazdaTrix if that aint going to fix it. Other ideas? More than one problem? (I suspect the gas smell is a leaking injector from what I've read, but never see anything around them)

Black91n/a

Be careful of gas smells, it means there's loose gas somehwere, which can cause a fire which will destroy the car. It can be the PD which can and will cause the car to catch on fire and be completely destroyed. If it hasn't been replaced to your knowledge then replace it. It's cheap insurance against an engine fire.

With the wipers it'll be the switch, replace it with a working one or dissasemble it and clean up the contacts. There's info on how to do so online, but I don't have a link saved or anything, a search should reveal it.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Do a search for "Icemark". He rebuilds a number of FC electronics. Also before ordering anything from Mazda keep looking here. I had to pull the CPU and resolder all the original solder points. That fixed every trouble I was having from it. Search and you`ll find a lot of info.

RXpilot

Icemark seems to be the man.... I did spent about 7 hours yesterday searching through the forums, and picked up lots of great ideas and tips.
The wiper switch I can replace... did it on my 87 TII. I might "cleaning" this time.
The A/C light is probably the first sign of Logicon starting to corupt... ouch to replace that !
I found the missing plastic insert that goes on the clutch pedal broken... dont know where to find that...
Fuel smell is big concern, but I dont know what the "PD" is mentioned above.
Icemark does not do this model CPU, so MazdaTrix will get my $120 to try out a new one for all of those other nags

Any ideas on that check engine light? Car REALLY chokes when it comes on. Turn switch off, restart engine and runs fine again till I get to work (6 miles).

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Pull the codes relating to the CEL light. It sounds like your metering oil pump is failing.

RXpilot

Aaron, buddy. You rate right up there with Ted and Ice.

I pulled the codes, and I am not good at reading them, but i definetly see a 2 and a 7, and code 27 says MOP and does a 20 !
( I get LL LL SSSSSSS, then repeats)
News to me after 26 years of owning rotaries to hear MOP/OMP. Go figure.
Im reading, searching, tryin to figure what/where/how to replace it. Saw some guy fried his ECU because of it but not much else. Dam this is a busy site....

Still concerned over the slight odor of gas uner the hood after parking in garage.. now what the "PD" is refered to above?

Thanks guys... had no idea there were so many RX enthusiast

RXpilot

Also... is there anything to these "Pro Choice" performance modules I keep seeing on ebay for 20-30 bucks?

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

^ No

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

NEVER get any kind of car electronics from ebay. Most are a sham.
You can find people selling used OMPs in the classifieds section. New they are something like 1300. You can find them used for 50 or 60, I think. It is possible that it can fry the ECU. If so, you can find those in the classifieds, though the vert ecus can be more rare. Check junkyards, also.
When the pulsation dampener (PD) fails, it leaks gas onto the exhaust manifold, which can cause an engine fire. Check around the passenger side of the engine, which is where the pd is located(on the primary fuel rail under the intake).

HAILERS

If the cruise control won't stay set, then maybe the clutch or brake switch is *MADE* all the time sending 12v to the Cruise Unit. You might disconnect the lower brake switch and go for a ride to see if that is the case or not.

Or you could go to the cruse control unit and find the wire that comes from the stop switch and clutch switch and see if it has 12v on it. If it does, then one or the other switch is busted and *Made* all the time.

I'm kinda of assuming that the cruise is engaging for a moment or so or else you wouldn't have suggested that.

YOu'd pull the plug off the Cruise Control Unit and look for the pure green wire and with the key to ON see if you have 12v there or not. If not, just to satisfy your curiosity, press on the brake pedal and see if 12v shows up or not. It should. If 12v wasn't there in the beginning, then your problem lies somewherer else.

Black91n/a

If the OMP is dying, you can get the Rtek 1.0 and eliminate it and run pre-mix.

Tyblat

I seriously feel sorry for anyone that buys ANYTHING from mazdatrix...they price gouge like there is no tomorrow. Icemark is the man.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

What the hell? They sell new parts, and charge accordingly. They sell the exact same thing as mazda, for cheaper. You can't compare the price of a new switch to that of a rebuilt one. That said, there is no reason to ever buy a new wiper switch, as icemark rebuilds them for cheap.

RXpilot

Wiper switch... gonna tr on my own first, and if no success, then I'll pick one up from Ice. To bad he doesnt do the CPU any more. MazdaTrix has good reading on the cold solder problem of the CPU. Will try that out first to before I order one. MT has been around a long, long time, and many times has been the only place (not even dealer) to find 15-20 year old new parts. New has never been cheap from anyone.
I checked out the pulsation dampner... no drips or even any wetness around. Gas smell actually seems to be coming back through the intake/air filter. Leaky injector? I have had the "car wont start again after warming up" problem, but that was a couple of years ago and only does it on occasion now.

Thanks all for the much needed help.

Found the cruise controll problem. Its the clutch pedal switch. Looks like there is a cap that goes through a hole on the pedal that is missing, so now the switch is actually going through the empty hole, and thus thinks the clutch is pushed in. I plugged the hole with a large headed nail for now. Seems to have fixed it, till I can find the right plug/cap that goes there.

Working on the OMP/MOP problem now.... just can't find the dam thing

RXpilot

Just a little more help...

Anyone know where I can buy a new MOP?

snowball

dealer, or mazdatrix...

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You probably don't want a new one. They are over $500 last time I checked. It is probably best to find a known-working used unit.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I thought the s5 ones were more like 1300.
Edit: 1357 from mazdatrix

RXpilot

Holy crap Batman....

I paid less than that for my first RX3 wagon!

OK, so I dont mind the pre-mix idea, but how do i trick the CPU so it doesnt keep going into limp?... I better search that one next