b16eg

iTrader: (2)

ok, well im a no0b to the rx7, after owning 9 hondas previously. Anywho!...the rear hatch light wont go off, even when the hatch is completely closed. then occasionally if i hit a bump, or sometimes at random the charge light will come on, and then it will just go off sometimes...but looking at the voltmeter, the volts are perfectly fine, and it has been doing this for quite some time now, so i just ignored it, but its kinda getting on my nerves now...and occasionally, the clock will turn off, and then turn back on, but it doesnt reset, it still has the correct time on it....and for the last about the dash lights, usually how all the warning lights are displayed when you turn the key to accessories, well lately it is rare that they all light up before you go to start the car....any ideas? thanks everyone!

-Jimmy

Chairleg420

The rear hatch has 2 clips, one on the right and one on the left, push down on the bottom on the hatch about 8 inches in on both sides. your clock could be going off because the battery teminal isnt tight enough. or maybe its wiring issue if its on the same time. as for you being a noob, just check teh FAQ or search because if you dont people on here will bitch at you alot. and never mention that you owned a honda on here. its kinda gay and an insult to the rx7 world

dothacker

you're a noob and you didn't search... and you own a honda?

haha.. i'm not gonna flame you... welcome to the site

anyways, you probably have a short somewhere over at your warning lights.

sonick117x

i dunno about the hatch but im gonna say that the clock thing is probably because of a loose battery terminal.. take em off.. use some sand paper and clean up the connection between the terminal and the cable.. reconnect and make sure theres no wiggle =)

youre going to be told to search and as chairleg420 saiiiiiiiid.. dont mention hondas

b16eg

iTrader: (2)

yeah h's were teh gay....im going to go clean the battery terminal connections, i know they are tight, but they look extremely old, so i may just go to walmart or something and get new ones. any other help will be appreciated, but thanks for the advice so far guys.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

It's never bad to clean your battery terminals and check connections, but I'll put my money on a bad warning light cluster (cold solder joints cracket, shorts, etc.). Fixed my clock and other warning lights.

Which lights don't turn on with ign. on engine off? The parking brake light only comes on with it set, since it isn't part of the bulb check circuit.

BTW, each hatch latch has a switch, so if the hatch isn't closed on both sides, the light stays on.

new2mazda

iTrader: (1)

what year is it? my 87 has an actual light switch on the "hydraulic" arms that hold the hatch up and contain the light.... maybe simple fix

CyberPitz

This man speaks my thoughts, exactly.

Icemark

man, the newbies should not be answering here.

If the light is staying on, it is because the hatch is not fully closed.

If the clock is not working, either the room fuse is blown or missing, or the lock/warning panel needs repair or replacement.

The battery terminals have nothing to do with this, and the people that suggested this should not be answering the question as you don't know what the funk you are talking about. Same for the one that answered about the hatch light on the strut. The strut light is only found on the 86-88 models, and 89-91 models have the trunk light on the side of the truck. As a reminder we ban people that regularly post incorrect information. Chairleg420 and sonick117x do you both feel good that b16eg probably went out and spent money he didn't have too because you told him you thought it was battery terminals???

b16eg

iTrader: (2)

ok update, i took some advice, and just slammed the hatch shut on both sides, and now the hatch light is off...yay. ok now the charge light ONLY comes on when the ebrake is pulled up, then if you put the ebrake down, the charge light will go off. the warnign light sstill occasionally come on when you turn on the accessories, but not everytime, i guess maybe i need to replace the warning light/clock cluster?

Icemark

All the warning lights should light up, when you turn the key to the ON position with the seat belt idiot light turning off after about 15-20 seconds.

The charge light coming on from the hand brake indicates that either there is a bad joint/connection in the warning panel, or that the wrong warning panel is in the car.

With the year and model of the car I can tell you what warning panel should be in the car.

b16eg

iTrader: (2)

ok thanks! it is a 1988 Mazda RX-7 SE

Icemark

Then if you pull the clock warning panel out, it should have a FB02 or FB04 series clock warning panel. FB02 would be the correct one for your model, but the FB04 will also work.

It should not be a FC02 or FC04 (as those are S5 models).

b16eg

iTrader: (2)

cool thanks ill check it out today!

b16eg

iTrader: (2)

oh update, if you push in on the warning light cluster when the car is just on the accessories position, they will come on like they should, so maybe there is a loose connection somewhere?.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Most likely cracked solder joints at the plug. Involves opening warning cluster and re-soldering. Must have some experience soldering to be safe.

Icemark

Only the clock should come on in the ACC position. The idiot lights should remain off, until the key is in the ON position.