Non-turbo go fast mods
#1
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Non-turbo go fast mods
All,
I have searched for mods for the 2G non-turbo and have only found good info for the turbocharged cars. Last weekend at the race there was an RX7 guy that came by while I was out of the pits and started named off all kinds of mods we could do to the car to get more performance out of it.
He mentioned things like removing some sort of butterfly flappers from the intake manifold, turning the struts in the front 180 degrees and a list of other things. Unfortunately I wasn't there to talk to him about it.
Where can I find these mods for an 86 non-turbo? My searches have been unsuccessful. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks!
I have searched for mods for the 2G non-turbo and have only found good info for the turbocharged cars. Last weekend at the race there was an RX7 guy that came by while I was out of the pits and started named off all kinds of mods we could do to the car to get more performance out of it.
He mentioned things like removing some sort of butterfly flappers from the intake manifold, turning the struts in the front 180 degrees and a list of other things. Unfortunately I wasn't there to talk to him about it.
Where can I find these mods for an 86 non-turbo? My searches have been unsuccessful. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks!
#3
well rested,buffet o food
Significant mods include a streetport and exhaust at 2500 dollars or so, depending on who does the porting.
That is probably why you havent found much on decent power increasers for the na.....you can build a turbo beast for 2500 dollars.
Little things that might give you some extra horsepower include researching "header, test pipe, exhaust, tbi mod and air intake" . Put suspension on the car and save up for a t2 swap.
I would look into turbocharging (my healthy) 6 port engine, or swapping in an 87 turbo 2 engine.
john ny
That is probably why you havent found much on decent power increasers for the na.....you can build a turbo beast for 2500 dollars.
Little things that might give you some extra horsepower include researching "header, test pipe, exhaust, tbi mod and air intake" . Put suspension on the car and save up for a t2 swap.
I would look into turbocharging (my healthy) 6 port engine, or swapping in an 87 turbo 2 engine.
john ny
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Thanks for the feedback so far guys. The car we are using we have been running in the 24 Hours of LeMons races so buying a turbo car is not an option, we'll have to work with what we have.
That said, there are supposed to be "free mods" that we can do to the car that will increase horsepower as well as some mods for handling.
What I've been told so far is that there are butterfly flappers in the intake manifold that can be removed to increase air intake which in turn will increase hp slightly. There are also supposed to be some mods we can do to the MAF.
As for suspension, we were told that we can some how turn the strut 180 degrees to gain another 1 degree in camber. But I don't see how that would work so I'm hoping to get more information.
Thanks
That said, there are supposed to be "free mods" that we can do to the car that will increase horsepower as well as some mods for handling.
What I've been told so far is that there are butterfly flappers in the intake manifold that can be removed to increase air intake which in turn will increase hp slightly. There are also supposed to be some mods we can do to the MAF.
As for suspension, we were told that we can some how turn the strut 180 degrees to gain another 1 degree in camber. But I don't see how that would work so I'm hoping to get more information.
Thanks
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#6
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Best thing to do is search through the archives, almost everything has been covered, and in more detail then I can give you.
Quick topics include:
Throttle body mod
Porting the Intake Manifold
Wiring secondary ports open
Remove exhaust sleeves
Some other ideas that pop to mind are:
Gutting the cats
Port the exhaust manifold
There are a few cheap suspension mods you can do if you have some fabrication skills. Basically sell some interior trim to pay for the metal
Quick topics include:
Throttle body mod
Porting the Intake Manifold
Wiring secondary ports open
Remove exhaust sleeves
Some other ideas that pop to mind are:
Gutting the cats
Port the exhaust manifold
There are a few cheap suspension mods you can do if you have some fabrication skills. Basically sell some interior trim to pay for the metal
#7
well rested,buffet o food
Trending Topics
#9
I think we've heard that throttle body mod one to many times already. Get an intake, port it. Do the throttle body mod if you want. Otherwise there is a thread about putting the third gen UIM on it. street-port the block. bigger injectors. Stand alone fuel system. port the exhaust ( header or other options.) Gut the cat. Those are some of your options. There are more. Do the research. It's all here. I've been reading the forums for two years and I am finally moving forward with mine. Just read random posts it's amazing what you'll learn.
#10
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He can't spend money on it. He has to use what he has.
As they stated, port the intakes and throttle body. It makes it have more power up top and a crisper throttle response. Gut the cats, but if you do that I don't think your 5th and 6th ports will open, so remove the sleeves. If you are allowed to add a few grounds, do it, and clean up original ones as well. If you can remove vacuum lines and emissions and install block off plates do it as well.
As they stated, port the intakes and throttle body. It makes it have more power up top and a crisper throttle response. Gut the cats, but if you do that I don't think your 5th and 6th ports will open, so remove the sleeves. If you are allowed to add a few grounds, do it, and clean up original ones as well. If you can remove vacuum lines and emissions and install block off plates do it as well.
#12
kill it with BOOMSTICK!
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/ho...20your%20rx-7/
this is a good pdf of a book that is no longer being published, how to mod your RX-7, and it is a really good read to help give your project some direction. One thing I will say is that as much fun as it is to get a bunch of power out of your engine, it's important to balance your upgrades, so putting an upgraded suspension package under the car is important to get the power to the ground, and stiffening the chassis is a really great way to get the car to handle better.
this is a good pdf of a book that is no longer being published, how to mod your RX-7, and it is a really good read to help give your project some direction. One thing I will say is that as much fun as it is to get a bunch of power out of your engine, it's important to balance your upgrades, so putting an upgraded suspension package under the car is important to get the power to the ground, and stiffening the chassis is a really great way to get the car to handle better.
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Thanks everyone, this is exactly what I was looking for.
We seemed to have the handling on course although there is always room for improvement, we just need a little more horsepower to get us around the track. We are a few seconds off of the pace from where we want to be. Some of that we'll make up with handling and driver skill, but the rest will have to come from power.
We've been given an after race assessed value by the LeMons guys which is $375.00 so that means we now have $125.00 to play with. I think we'll continue to work through a lot of the maintenance stuff with that money.
The engine will come out of the car in the next few weeks so a lot of this work will be easier to manage. I've already noticed a few things while prepping the engine for removal. First of all whoever had the car before us plugged off a few lines, presumably the EGR system, but not all of it. There are a few capped lines but a lot of the main stuff is still connected. I did also notice that the air canister line is detached from what appears to be age. That is one of the things I would like to pull off the engine when we get it out as well as the A/C system. I'm going to replace the vacuum lines while I'm in there too as well as the hoses.
I did notice at the last race our oil pressure was really high. At the end of my stint, it pegged out and then when the car was refueled and turned off it dropped back down. We noticed later that there is a dent in the oil cooler, most likely from snacking it on the crappy U Haul trailer. I'm hoping that was the issue and not something else.
We also had overheating issues and from what I'm reading that is really bad for a rotary. Is there anything we can check without opening the motor to see if there is any damage to the car? Keep in mind, the car is not drivable due to the bad clutch.
We seemed to have the handling on course although there is always room for improvement, we just need a little more horsepower to get us around the track. We are a few seconds off of the pace from where we want to be. Some of that we'll make up with handling and driver skill, but the rest will have to come from power.
We've been given an after race assessed value by the LeMons guys which is $375.00 so that means we now have $125.00 to play with. I think we'll continue to work through a lot of the maintenance stuff with that money.
The engine will come out of the car in the next few weeks so a lot of this work will be easier to manage. I've already noticed a few things while prepping the engine for removal. First of all whoever had the car before us plugged off a few lines, presumably the EGR system, but not all of it. There are a few capped lines but a lot of the main stuff is still connected. I did also notice that the air canister line is detached from what appears to be age. That is one of the things I would like to pull off the engine when we get it out as well as the A/C system. I'm going to replace the vacuum lines while I'm in there too as well as the hoses.
I did notice at the last race our oil pressure was really high. At the end of my stint, it pegged out and then when the car was refueled and turned off it dropped back down. We noticed later that there is a dent in the oil cooler, most likely from snacking it on the crappy U Haul trailer. I'm hoping that was the issue and not something else.
We also had overheating issues and from what I'm reading that is really bad for a rotary. Is there anything we can check without opening the motor to see if there is any damage to the car? Keep in mind, the car is not drivable due to the bad clutch.
#15
Slowpoke
iTrader: (3)
look at water injection cleaning , its basically free way to clean the engine lol
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...injection.html
this might also be a useful link to u http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/techmenu.html
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...injection.html
this might also be a useful link to u http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/techmenu.html
#16
strike up the paean
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html
blown engine symptoms (the typical result of overheating):
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n..._symptoms.html
#18
The Silent but Deadly Mod
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Rotating the front strut probably means rotating the front strut mount for more camber. The strut mount in the front is eccentric; each of the four positions will give you a different camber and caster setting. Get the car on an alignment rack or use strings and play around with the strut mount when you bolt the strut up to see which position give you the camber settings that you want.
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