No thermostat!!!Good OR BAD???
#51
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
Why do people ALWAYS think they're smarter than Mazda engineers?
Originally Posted by Karack
because some people do not feel that 182BHP is sufficient.
#52
Clean.
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Racers drill holes in their thermostats for a small improvement in coolant flow. They also don't need to worry about warmup. They also use chrome-moly, which is super-light but very brittle (requires frequent crack inspection and/or replacement). Point is: if you're not a racer, don't take your thermostat out.
#53
(_8(|)
Join Date: Jul 2004
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i might have missed it, and i dont feel like looking hrough this thread, but i saw you said you were gonig to run Evans NPG?? If so then run a 0 lb coolant cap, im sure i saw you or someone say they were running a 13 lb cap. If your not running it then disregard.
#55
I ran without a thermostat during my 'block seal' run. Put that thermostat back in. Get the factory mazda one. It is a big difference. My car starys at 1/3 or less no matter what. boosting with AC in 99 degree heat.
#56
Clean.
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Ditto here, <1/3 w/ A/C, no matter how hot out it is, no matter how hard I hit the gas. "Use Mazda OEM thermostat only" should be casted into the neck above the thermostat. Or at the top of the forum's 2nd-gen FAQs. For all the headaches they cause, no one should ever touch an aftermarket (auto-store) thermostat. And I bet 90% of '7s have them.
Last edited by ericgrau; 07-26-06 at 05:00 PM.
#57
yessir
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I figured I want a gutted thermostat because I do have an N-Flo and underdrive pulley. I figure that n-flo is enough restriction to keep water speeds down. No actually proof of that though I was wondering if anyone had an idea on that.
I'll see 90 C most of the time sometimes 92 (194 F and 197.6 F respectively) with florida's 115 heat index and 80% humidity. With the N-flo, and a front mount blocking the air to it. I also have my heater core mounted in the brake duct. My friend get's the same temperatures with a non- N-Flo koyo, a bigger air blocking intercooler and no heater core.
Two gear pulls will put me at 100 C or 102 C for a good 15-20 mins of driving until they come down to 92 C again. (also have header wrap......)
I'll see 90 C most of the time sometimes 92 (194 F and 197.6 F respectively) with florida's 115 heat index and 80% humidity. With the N-flo, and a front mount blocking the air to it. I also have my heater core mounted in the brake duct. My friend get's the same temperatures with a non- N-Flo koyo, a bigger air blocking intercooler and no heater core.
Two gear pulls will put me at 100 C or 102 C for a good 15-20 mins of driving until they come down to 92 C again. (also have header wrap......)
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