WOOWWWW! This is extremely LOW compression!

It needs to have a minimum of 85 psi per bump. At that point it is recomended to rebuild the motor. You are significantly below this point.

If your compression is that low, and you have excess fuel in the exhaust, you probably just flooded it. I have not read anywhere in here where you have done an unflooding procedure. If the car will "almost run" for 3 - 5 seconds than I think you need to really clear out the old fuel.

Search for the unflooding procedure and do that.

If that doesn't work, and your compression is really that low, it is time for a rebuild!

 

if i disconnect the water thermo sensor it seems to flood alot less and seems like it wants to start. what do you think this could say about the flooding issue? do you think a bad sensor or possibly a bad ecu?

 

according the the rotary resurrection page, my compression is good. can somebody please clarify this confusion. what is the proper compression testing procedure and what are acceptable readings. everyone says something different.

 

Long shot. But maybe its the key switch. Did you check the EGI fuse?

Also recheck all the GROUNDS to the engine and ecu

 

And put a switch in for the fuel Pump so you can manualy turn that fuel off and on.
Because if you think its getting to much fuel you can turn the fuel pump off till it catches

If the EGI fuse is GOOD Pull it and try to start. If it starts Should stop running within a few seconds. then put the EGI fuse back and try agian.. ALSO make sure the FUEL PUMP IS WORKING

 

i have un flooded the car multiple times. i pull the egi fuse and it will run for a couple of seconds. if i put atf in the spark plug holes and try it the car smokes alot and will run for about 4 or 5 seconds and then stalls. it doesnt run great but it does run. also if i disconnect the water thermo sensor the car will come alot closer to starting without using any atf. this leads me to believe that for some reason i am getting way too much fuel when i am trying to start the car.

 

so who is wrong.....
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html

 

really like to know who's pulling my chain. everyone can't be right

 

This is a stupid question:

Have you tried jumpering your fuel pump using the yellow two-prong connector on the passenger side shock tower? The whole "run for a few seconds then stop" is customary of a failed AFM of some sort, and this helps eliminate the AFM from the equation....

 

it would be really nice if people answered the question being asked instead of criticizing the statements being made that don't make any sense, let alone answer anything.

 

i just checked my fuel pressure and it is at about 44 psi. i am going to change my fpr and then try to start it again.

 

Disconnecting the water thermo sensor makes the ECU see a default of 178*F as the water temperature and therefore inject Much less fuel than if the sensor was connected up displaying the true cold temperature of the water.

Another thing that will make the ECU deliver less fuel during Start is the ECU not seeing the Start signal from the key. The ECU will then use the afm for fuel delivery which will be MUCH less fuel than a stock/wired correctly car.

The compression sounds ok given the "old Smokey's" procedure you used. That is a oddball procedure. NORMAL people remove the schrader valve in the end of the hose and then spin the engine looking for even bounces . Removing or depressing the valve on the side of the compression tester results in a MUCH lower figure than if you had removed the schrader valve in the end of the hose. The over 105psi you stated is plenty good fine. Especially since the engine is semi flooded if I read you right.

 

i suppose this would be the end of the thread. i found that my main e shaft bearings are shot which caused the front rotor to lose compression beyond cranking speed. After eliminating every possible problem that would cause a no start i finally pulled the engine out and pulled the oil pan and found quite a bit of copper in it. i believe when my turbo went a piece of the bearing must have damaged my oil pump or possibly even gotten into a bearing.

Thanks for all your help

BTW....anyone have a good cheap engine fs?